a heavy hail episode, yesterday, in the beaujolais crus…

By billn on July 11, 2017 #vintage 2017

A violent episode of hail crossed the northern Beaujolais vineyards just before 5pm yesterday.

From Beaujeu to Moulin-à-Vent, the corridor is almost identical to that of 2016. The area concerned is large but to varying degrees according to the zones: the north of Lantignié, Régnié (to a lesser extent), Morgon (Charmes and Corcelette mainly), Chiroubles (Grille Midi especially). Fleurie (Le Bourg, Les Quatre Vents, Champagne …) seem to be the most impacted appellations. Chénas and Moulin-à-vent are also affected.

The hailstones were not large (certainly the result of using the diffusers), but the storm was associated with mini wind tornadoes that caused a real “sanding” of some vines.

In the next few days should make it possible to make a more precise assessment of the area of vines concerned and the degree of impact on the future harvest.
From Interbeaujolais this lunchtime

week 27 2017 – weekend wines – must try harder…

By billn on July 11, 2017 #degustation

This weekend was definitely a ‘must try harder‘ weekend…

2015 Dampt Frères, Bourgogne Tonnerre Le Clos du Chateau
The 2014 of this was a match for 95% of Chablis 1er crus – taught, mineral but absolutely deliciously intense wine – and all for about €9. The 2015 isn’t really like that – there is concentration, certainly enough weight of flavour, but rather like the 2015 Vaillons of Long-Depaquit, tasted a couple of weeks ago, this simply lacks a little deliciousness. Perhaps it will improve with time, but today it’s a realtively easy pass…
Rebuy – No

1996 Jean-Claude Belland, Chambertin
Last time out – already 10 years ago – this was young and delicious – today no-longer. Of-course every bottle will be different, but this showed a pretty unpleasantly bretty nose. The palate has weight – indeed poise – fine balance and layers of flavour. The flavours showed a little less of the brett – but a wine with a poor nose is a wine that ultimately you can’t rescue – that was the case here. Given that it was Chambertin, I persevered with a second glass – indeed a third on the next day – but it wasn’t to be…
Rebuy – No

2012 Le Grappin, Savigny-lès-Beaune
Fresh, herby, bright red fruit. The palate is fresh and open with a bright personality. Despite the faint green tinge – like fresh mint on strawberries – this was delicious. Yum!
Rebuy – Yes

rootstock pommard

By billn on July 10, 2017 #diary dates

Rootstock‘ happened at the Château de Pommard this weekend.

Rootstock – Woodstock? Well, why not…

Of the two days possible to visit, we chose the Saturday to attend – it was hot despite plenty of cloud-cover – storms were forecast, but the weather-gods deemed that the storm should arrive only around 23h30 – I think the organisors would have accepted that. Sunday morning it was still showery-wet – we were under-way to Switzerland about midday – hopefully the weather improved for Rootstock’s Sunday-session – ‘acts’ having a start-time of 14h30.

Bus-shuttles were being run from a couple of places in Beaune – but I was too stupid to find the timetable, so I drove. For a first attempt, I would say that there were enough people there on the Saturday to bring some atmosphere for both the performers and attendees. Two favourites for me were a neo-Franzosich Ed Sheeran on the ‘acoustic stage’ and the pint-sized but brilliant Nina Attal on the main stage.

There were Champagne bars, cocktail bars, bar-bars, small bijou-food bars, ice-cream bars – the place just lacked a decent plate-full-of-food – bar so we left after about 4 hours – a little after 8pm – but hungry.

Good organisation and hopefully sufficiently well-recieved that they might do it again next year!
 

hot stuff – a 2017 vintage update…

By billn on July 07, 2017 #vintage 2017

As the Tour de France reaches Nuits St.Georges today, this week’s weather has recovered from the cooler wet days at the end of last week – the latter part of the week has simmered at 35°C. But there are big regional differences – last weekend Beaune received about 95 mm of rain – much needed rain – but depending on where you were in Beaujolais you may have seen between 1 and 10 mm. There are storms forecast for the weekend too

The vines are surging forward – it’s currently highly likely that the Côte d’Or will be harvesting closer to the beginning of September – more like 90 days from flowering, whereas in Beaujolais they are already starting to pencil-in dates from the 25th August! Even Chablis where they had over 10 days of frost at the end of April is forecasting an early harvest – though the frosted vines are of-course a little behind. Yields are currently looking ‘good’ – Chablis excepted – and given the lack of wine in cellars, that would be a logistical boon, but clearly might have repercussions for the pricing of 2016s. Let’s see, according to the BIVB:

In the north of the Bourgogne winegrowing region, in the Chablis and Grand Auxerrois, growth is comparable with the 2011 and 2003 vintages. For the Côte de Beaune, Côte de Nuits and the Hautes-Côtes, it is more like 2007 and 2009, when the harvest began at the end of August or in early September. The Côte Chalonnaise should also begin harvesting around that time. As for the Mâconnais, 2017 is a week ahead of the average for the last 10 years, and 18 days ahead compared to 2016.

The grape clusters are closing up and I’ve even seen the first pictures of some colour-change – veraison. The vineyards are currently very clean – no mildew, and so-far very little sign of oïdium. Oïdium from infection to blooming needs 40 days – so so the vignerons think that if they’ve seen nothing in the next 10 days, then they will have avoided that too. In the vines maybe there are a few last treatments of sulfur and copper – but apart from a tight ‘haircut’ to tidy the vines, the only work is preparing for the harvest – oh and the vigneron(ne)s holidays!

This week I’ve been enjoying the beautiful blue skies of the Côtes – and finding my iPhone a decent-enough replacement for my camera! Yesterday was a big tasting in Beaujolais – lots and lots of St.Amour – next week I’ll be visiting the selected producers.

Only one mid-week wine – a half of 1996 Grivot Nuits Lavières. The first sip was a little sharp, but à table with the home-made burgers it was very nicely balanced. Definitely a durable wine and of interest and fine texture too, but any pretense of ‘deliciousness’ departed the scene at least 15 years ago!
 

cave prestige 2017

By billn on July 06, 2017 #annual laurels

Each year the BIVB hold a number of large tastings – this year 1,130 samples were presented and were split:

Regional – 31%
Villages – 41%
Premiers – 23%
Grands Crus – 5%

The wines were supplied by domaines 84%, négoce 13% and cooperatives 3%

Of those, the BIVB selected 195 wines to represent ‘Burgundy’ at tastings all around the world – this is their annual Cave Prestige.

You can download the list of all those wines here.

week 26 – weekend wines – a triple jadot

By billn on July 04, 2017 #degustation

Digging around in the cellar, I first thought that this was my case containing a mix of Jadot’s 98/99 Beaune Grèves – often seen in this diary in the last years – but out of the corner of my eye, I though – hmm, that’s not a Grèves! Judging by the labels, both the Rugiens and the Suchots were bought in bulk/barrel. The Clos de la Barre is all Jadot, despite it not saying ‘Domaine’ on the label.

1999 Louis Jadot, Volnay 1er Clos de la Barre
A beautiful long cork that glides out with just the right amount of pull.
A fresh, mulled red fruit with faint sous-bois and herb – compelling stuff. Weighty, supple, still with tannin – it’s a young finishing structure but a wine that is very giving – there’s just enough sweetness and cushioning ‘fat’ to be very moreish. A fine and expanding wave of finishing flavour too. Excellent and certainly with a decent level of maturity.
Rebuy – Yes

1999 Louis Jadot, Pommard 1er Rugiens
Just a rubbish cork – it split in two and the rest comes out in tiny pieces. Despite that Jadot have domaine Rugiens, this shows that they are in the market to buy wine too.
Ooh – no lasting problem from the cork – just an iron-heavy, bloody redness of aroma – ooh – that is sooo good! This shows a similar freshness to the Barre, narrower, less fat but more intensity and line – young but multi-dimensional. Long, staining flavour – absolutely brilliant but despite a fine floral element to the flavour this is really too young – the extra fatness of the Barre making that wine much more approachable today – but Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes

1999 Louis Jadot, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Suchots
This time another great cork – at least as good as the one from the Volnay…
Here the nose, whilst open, shows a little less power and volume than the first two wines, but it is both composed and still very impressive – and maybe if you search hard enough, you can probably convince yourself that there’s a little Vosne-spice here too – i.e. there probably isn’t! I love the fact that all three wines have completely different shapes in the mouth; the Volnay was round with a little fat for comfort, the Pommard was more linear and muscular, and here we have a wine with super width – almost a wave of flavour that flows over the palate. Here the flavour impression is one of some maturity and – yes – spiciness of complex fruit. This plays beautifully over the palate, and of the three I would say it is currently the most ‘ready’ – whatever that means. Super wine!
Rebuy – Yes

I’d say that that was a good weekend – and there were 2 of each in the case – so maybe I shall wait 2 more years and drink the ‘poor orphans’ when they are 20 – or maybe not – if I find them again 🙂

la maison (2)

By billn on July 02, 2017 #degustation#random

Scene of the (literal) car-crash on Thursday evening, was La Maison in Vougeot.

It was a little soirée to taste 2-3 wines and in partnership with Lalique for them to promote their new (wine) glassware. Nice carafes for sure – I didn’t ask the price – the Burgundy and Universal glasses were very nice too, if just a little heavy in the hand – normally in those contexts I’d take the Riedel Burgundy Vinum or the Zalto Universal. Good as these glasses are, and despite surely a much higher cost, they do have one quite large negative (in the eyes of many wine-lovers) and that’s that the name of James Suckling and 100 points is attached to them!

Oh-well, I suppose that you don’t have to look at the signature on the base of the glass!

Just for info there was a JCB Crémant Rosé that was very fine indeed – and I’m not normally the biggest fan of rosé-fizz. More impressive was the 2011 Vougeot Clos du Prieuré (blanc) – really top-notch! Given the unfolding car-crash outside, and despite being told that it was the nicest wine – I decided two glasses were enough, so I didn’t try the Chambolle-Musigny before heading home…
 

cold weather but nevertheless – rosé!

By billn on June 30, 2017 #degustation#vintage 2017

The last week has really been a change in direction for the weather. Despite pronouncements from Beaujolais yesterday that “At this stage, 2017 is the second sunniest year since 1980 – just behind 2011” it’s just as equally stormy/showery and cool there as it is in Beaune. Much of this week has seen 10°C, punctuated by heavy downpours of rain. Actually this is great for the vineyards as they have started showing the first signs of thirst – much of June has been 30°C or above – and this has had a knock-on for the ideas of harvesting. Flowering suggested a harvest date close to the 10th of September, but the hot weather in June had pushed that towards ‘the first days of September.’ The forecast remains changeable though getting warmer next week – a combination of 30° and humidity will not be welcomed – let’s see!

Still today I availed myself of a rosé and a damn fine rosé at that. I consider the best gamay rosés to be superior to the best pinot rosés – at least those that see malo, anyway. Here’s a great example.

2016 Mischief & Mayhem, Côteaux Bourguignone, Rosé
The label tells me 100% gamay noir from near Saint Amour. This has stainless-steel elevage, was bottled in March, and saw only a partial malo…
Very faintly perfumed, with a little aromatic weight not overt but very attractive. Really there’s plenty of volume in the mouth but without distracting weight. Lovely width and freshness with a great texture. It seems the perfect combination of freshness, delicacy but texture too. Probably as good a rosé as you will find…
Rebuy – Yes

too drunk to think…

By billn on June 30, 2017 #random

No, not me.

Last night, with a glass in hand in Vougeot (more on that at the weekend), I heard a big crash. I looked out to see a clever gentleman who had crashed into a parked car. I instantly assumed my car when I heard the sound – well things come in threes don’t they? But no, it was someone equally unfortunate, but this time, not me.

The driver started to reverse his car from ‘the embrace’ and I instantly thought ‘he’s going to drive away’ – and he did. I thought to myself ‘I wonder if he’s left any evidence?’ and sure enough, when I turned over the large plastic bumper…

We laughed – well, not the lady whose car it was – obviously…

Burgundy Report

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