Degustation

week(end) 13 – the wines – lucky us…

By billn on April 05, 2016 #degustation

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A weekend in the mountains – plus some clear ‘wine-joy.’

2010 Francois Mikulski, Meursault 1er Charmes
I’ve never yet had a problem, but I see reports of advanced bottles from François – which is a shame because I love both the man and his wines – but this was in fine shape. A fresh wine of line and intensity with a rather classic, faintly gingerbread nose. The finish edged with a little salinity – it just drank beautifully – yum!
Rebuy – Yes

2009 Patrice Rion, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Charmes
Deep of colour, deep of nose… The aromas are dark-fruited, faintly oak-spiced but with sumptuous fruit and a suggestion of florality. In the mouth there’s real presence – concentration and very fine texture. Yum-flavoured with some modest spicy, faintly bitter oak artefacts – but really nothing of concern. A lovely bottle.
Rebuy – Yes

2001 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Corton-Charlemagne
Ouf – this is good! A floral note twists through complex aromatics that mix citrus fruit, a hint of secondary development and some salinity. Really plenty of concentration and fat in the mouth – and I normally consider this to be one of the more direct Charlemagnes – with fine balance and just a fabulous mid-palate and finishing complexity. This really is one of the best whites I’ve drunk for a long time – Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes – like a shot!

1993 Louis Jadot, Nuits St.Georges 1er Clos des Corvées
Ouf – again! A clarion of gorgeous, dark fruit – cherry – that slowly melts into a floor of dried leaves – just a beauty. In the mouth it’s a super wine with (today!) only modest tannic structure. It’s lithe, complex and oh-so-tasty – the palate is almost as good as the nose – and that’s saying something! Young, but ‘ready’ – great!
Rebuy – Yes

2011 Au Pied de Mont Chauve, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Vergers
A barbecue in the mountains – this bottle kept cool by burying it in the snow – let’s be honest – almost anything would have been good in this context. Yet this is a beautifully put together wine of fine aromatic, and a balanced palate with concentrated waves of fine flavour. I won’t aggrandise my recollection further as we certainly weren’t using tasting glasses – but a resounding ‘yum’ came from all who partook…
Rebuy – Yes

week(end) 12 – the wines

By billn on March 31, 2016 #degustation

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Belated, I know – but places to go, people to see – et-cetera 😉
It was a long-weekend, with an added Monday – so an extra bottle or two….

Louis Picamelot, Crémant de Bourgogne Les Terroirs
I love their blanc de blancs, but the shop had run out! This started in very anonymous fashion – okay, but certainly not special. With time in the glass it took on a little more interest – never anything particularly wrong with the wine, but completely un-involving. Some way behind the very fine BdB…
Rebuy – No

2013 Alain Geoffroy, Chablis 1er Beauroy
A bright wine – indeed quite perky aromatically and on the tongue too. A certain extra vintage sweetness, but no overt apricot or anything like that. It drank well for its modest price.
Rebuy – Yes

2013 Françoise André, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Vergelesses
Super wine. The nose is fine – not amazing, but fine. In the mouth there’s fine intensity, balance and freshness, but really the mid-palate to the finish are very distinguished indeed – a super, layered delivery of finishing flavour. Super wine. And with quite a few tartrate crystals left on the inside of this empty bottle too.
Rebuy – Yes

2013 des Chezeaux, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Chezeaux
Their 13 Lavaux was dark, very impressive wine. Their 13 Cazetiers was much lighter – good but a little modest for such a cru. Here we are back to deeply coloured wine with lots of interesting flavour dimension. Very good wine here – the nose has something a little powdery about the fruit, but half an hour after opening that’s fading in the memory. Very good!
Rebuy – Yes

a quiet night among the books…

By billn on March 22, 2016 #degustation#events

Just a quiet evening among the books of Athenaeum in Beaune tonight. Fred Ménager was cooking (with his team) plus multiple bottles of 2008, mainly in magnum, from Christian Clerget, Jean-Jacques Confuron, Vincent Dureuil-Janthial, Michel Lafarge, Hubert Lamy, Jean Louis et Andrée Trapet, Tollot-Beaut, Vitteaut-Alberti and Guiseppe-Rinaldi.

The wines were some thing of a free-for-all both before and during dinner – my iPad was never opened – these few pics, were the best I could come up with, and for a whole evening’s work, too! Sorry 😉
 

a tasting audience…

By billn on March 22, 2016 #degustation#events

Some of the people watching us taste yesterday evening:
 


 
Notes will follow in the March report, unfortunately it was mainly the reds as I started to get some tooth sensitivity – still, a trio of Bâtards to finish was something of a balm…

week(end) 11 – a tasty wine selection (part 2)…

By billn on March 21, 2016 #degustation#events

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I suppose you could call this a warm-up for the ‘Grands Jours’, that week of tastings every two years, where it is literally impossible to attend every ‘session’ that you are either invited to, or have subscribed for!

Having decided to miss the Nuits St.Georges half-marathon, the associated tasting in Nuits and the auction of the Hospices de Nuits – the Nuits-a-thon(!) – I decided, instead, to try a Chablis-a-thon!

Three presenters, in various degrees of focus - by midnight, the focus was reversed ;-)
Three presenters, in various degrees of focus – by midnight, the focus was reversed 😉
The Sunday night before the Chablis tastings, Laroche decided to put together a tasting to discuss minerality – plenty of wines to be tasted – some more ‘mineral’ than others. there were contributions from Grégory Viennois of Laroche, David Croix showing wines from both Camille Giroud and Domaine des Croix, plus Stéphane Derenoncourt who came from somewhere called Saint Emillion.

Plenty of wines and lots if discussion (which will be in March’s report) was followed by dinner and lots of lovely wines. To add to those dinner wines above were 2011 Chassagne 1er Vergers, 2011 Corton-Charlemagne, 2010 Corton Clos de la Vigne aux Saint, 2010 Le Chambertin and 2005 Latricières from Mr Croix, 2008 Clos Fourtet and 2008 Pavie Macquin from Stéphane, and probably others that I was ‘too tired’ to remember. Great discussion, great wines and a really fine audience and audience participation.

Day 1 of the Grands Jours started with Chablis – the 2014s of 9 new producers (to me) was enough for me – packed as it was – the lunch buffet was clearly a bridge too far – 993 visitors and 136 exhibitors all trying to eat at the same time! Tonight there’s an evening a tasting of various producers in the Hôtel Dieu – now that doesn’t seem so hard does it? I’ve even managed 25 minutes jogging and a shower (luckily for the other people!) before I leave the apartment for that tasting.

Wish me luck….!

week(end) 11 – a tasty wine selection (part 1)…

By billn on March 21, 2016 #degustation

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2000 Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Clos des Ursules
This must be about the 7th or 8th bottle from a full case – like all the others, this has a modest intensity but a far from modest complexity and overall drinkability. Lovely wine – also a better showing than the recent 2000 Clos des Lambrays…
Rebuy – Yes

2012 du Pavillon, Pommard 1er Les Rugiens
Ouf! Plenty of vanilla oak on the nose, likewise the palate too – I honestly can’t drink this when first opened – I leave it to ‘improve’ for 24 hours(!) The nose still has plenty of vanilla, but on a slightly lower order. The palate is also less overtly oaked, with a superb silky texture and really wonderful, palpable density of flavour. Potentially great wine this – but I must remember not to open another during the next 10 years.
Rebuy – Yes

2006 Mugneret-Gibourg, Bourgogne
The nose on this is a bit muddled to start with – but no worries – within about 1 hour, this is simply gorgeous; a fine, clarion-call of beautiful fruit. Medium bodied, but very finely put together. This is drinking superbly well right now – it just needs a little when first opening.
Rebuy – Yes

chezeaux’s 2013 cazetiers – gevrey 1er

By billn on March 16, 2016 #degustation

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2013 des Chezeaux, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Cazetiers
Versus the recent 13 Lavaux of this domaine, this has more modest, medium, medium-plus colour. The nose starts rather undemonstrative and with a faintly toasted reduction. This cleans-up its act in the glass, becoming perfectly clean with a deep well of faint fruit but the top notes are very tight. After the nose, this is such a surprise in the mouth; super-open with ebullient, beautiful dark fruit – almost a blueberry and cherry blend – non-standard for sure, but utterly delicious. Clean, refreshing lines, you will have to dig hard to find the tannin. Silky, super-tasty wine, and roll it around over your palate and you will be treated to a fine finish – otherwise this an up-front, delicious wine that will comfort, rather than challenge you – today! Really super-yum.
Rebuy – Yes

albert boillot’s 2012 volnay les petits poisots

By billn on March 15, 2016 #degustation

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2012 Albert Boillot, Volnay Les Petits Poisots
Medium, medium-plus colour. A lovely, fresh, silky, herbed but fine red-fruited nose – this is very attractive. Fresh and wide across the palate. Good complexity of dark-red fruit, very faintly accented with spice. Like the nose, there’s a little herb in the mid-palate, almost a suggestion of bitterness – but bitter-chocolate style, not a negative. Fresh and nicely finishing. Simply a tasty wine.
Rebuy – Yes

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