Tasted in Beaune with Frédéric Barnier, 17 November, 2015.
21 Rue Eugène Spuller
Tel: +33 3 80 22 10 57
Frédéric on 2015:
2015 went really well. Harvest started on the 1st September for whites – a full week harvesting for those followed by the reds of the Côte de Beaune. For both colours, the triage was anecdotic. Good pHs, indeed given the high alcoholic potentials the actual acidity levels were pretty good. A rare phenomenon, with maceraton, the acidity held if not increased. We lost some juice but it concentrated what was left. Beaune hardly delivered a half harvest. 32 hl/ha were our average yields across the reds. Malos not very early, so for the whites we may block some of the malos in the whites…
Frédéric on 2014:
2014 began harvesting on the 11th September – virtually the same for both colours. ‘Porriture acide’ could be found in many places, the heat and humidity was the main driver, rather than particularly drosophila – but they certainly took advantage. Dry and fine bright days in September helped push the maturity to a very good level and with a little wind the pressure from rot was reduced. Good balance, freshness and 95% of malos done already by Christmas, probably because the warm autumn left the cellar quite warm… Open, round and gourmand the reds. Really very homogenous vs most vintages… I was a bit worried as the colours were rather pale after the malos, but they grew! As for the whites, it’s a complete year!
Such a shame – another (major!) producer that uses small tasting glasses – I will never understand it!
Here is no simple, early drinking set of wines. All these reds are going to need at least 18 months before approaching, but the quality here is very fine – and I’m very happy to see that virtually all the wines I highlighted last year as really exceptional, are exactly the same this year. Bravo for that consistency!
2014 Chorey-lès-Beaune, Beaumonts
Wider and deeper aromatic. – less intense. Wide, fresh, cool fruit. Again rather vibrant red fruit, but darker shaded. Moth watering flavour leaches from easier structure. Excellent…
2014 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Clos de la Croix de Pierre
Deeper, darker and narrower red fruited nose. Lush and wide, great texture a louche but eventually more intense personality… Vey yum. The tannin needs to fade, but it shouldn’t take too long. Enjoy!
Super colour. Wide and silkily floral nose – a beauty. Really more florality to the fruit here, there’s lots of structure but it slowly melts after you swallow, to leave a fine line of precise fruit. Bingo!
2014 Beaune 1er Boucherottes
Also pretty deep colour. Wider, faintly spiced red fruit, eventually adding some floral notes too. Wide flavour perspective, as always underpinned with plenty of structure. Fine, rather high toned perfume in the finish. Super.
Some width, almost a textured width, but tighter than the others. Lithe, direct, wiry, but complex, here there’s some oak flavour, but it’s really just one of many components of complexity. Excellent but for the more patient! A beautiful finishing note…
2014 Volnay Clos de la Barre
High toned and prettily floral, even if the fruit register is quite a deep red. Silky. The silk quickly turns to velvet as the tannin starts to take hold. A reasonable amount of astringency today, but nothing to worry about. Just wait until 2018… Excellent… Beautiful finishing fruit too.
2014 Pommard 1er Clos de la Commaraine
Really the totality of the vineyard this year – before was shared with Corton-André.
A pretty, if more modest, dark red fruited with florality. Super width of flavour, fine complexity too. Dark, oak inflected flavour today. But this is every bit as good as the Barre, in more brooding way…
2014 Corton Pougets
“Very special part of Corton with the white soil of Charlemagne.”
A little less colour. High tones, floral tones. Wide, mouth-filling, concentrated and intense. Direct, corton intensity but with fine finishing freshness and a good complexity. Very good…
2014 Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Boudots
Quite nice width and freshness, but generally a little tight. Softer, more supple, the tannin has a little more play. Bright complexity and fine focus of flavour in the mid-palate into the finish. Just missing the nose today…
2014 Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Vaucrains
Deep colour again. A modest, rather discreet nose. Like the Boudots some softness here until the tannin rises to the surface. The fruit manfully battles but doesn’t really get to take the advantage before the finish. – here it’s fine. A big wine and an impressive wine, but one to wait for…
2014 Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Suchots
A discreet but very deep and ripe red fruit nose. Supple, ripe, sweet fruit. An impressive mid-palate intensity here. Long and impressively persistent flavour. Very yum!
2014 Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Beaumonts
Equally tight (small glasses!). I like the way that this rolls around the mouth. There’s no particular focus, but rather it just keeps chatting away with you all the time – you only need to listen. Beautiful finishing floral fruit…
Deeper and dark aromas, almost a dark mineral impression. A heavy floral perfume slowly developing… Round, texured depth of flavour – this is captivating. Yes there is a hint of drying tannin, but just be patient, because this is superb!
Pretty and high toned, a lovely bright and dynamic top end to this nose. Wide and floral inflected fruit. High toned interest here as opposed to deep bass notes. This is very lovely wine and the finish is a beauty…!
2014 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques
Wide aromas but certainly tighter than the Estournelles. Bigger, more textured, faintly padded wine. This is altogether more considered and perhaps a little too serious today. For that reason I’d rather drink the Estournelles – but I expect that will change with time… The finish is deep and impressive…
A wide and appealinly floral nose. Here is a beautiful high toned fruit, of gorgeous delivery. This is class, excellent wine. The flavour is persistent and ever-changing. Bravo!
Wider, more clarity of cooler, complex fruit with a faint inflection of vanilla and violets. Big, muscular but with boundless energy too. The finish brilliant – not an explosion, but growth of beautiful notes. Excellent!
2014 Clos de La Roche
A pretty if narrow width of aroma over a tighter bass. Here is a little more roundness after the Bèze. Really a wine that opens wider and wider, even after swallowing before modestly but very, very slowly fading. Super contemplative…
2014 Clos de Vougeot
Some depth, a faint herb adds complexity to the high tones. Large-scaled without undue fat, velvet textured without undue dryness. An almost sumptous wine without becoming easy. Lots of material here – possibly still a medium term (30years?) wine. But rather good, indeed very good!
A wide and subtly spiced nose. A power that grows from the core, a chain reaction that fills your mouth until you have to let go – spit or swallow! Really beautiful flavour complexity here and though there’s a lot of structure, it’s mainly submerged. A really great wine!
Here is a big round bouquet of welcoming aroma. As big as the Bonnes-Mares, and maybe with more energy, but less subtlety of structure – the tannin has a drier leading edge – though of-course you won’t notice in a couple of years or more. The flavour dimension in the finish is really super, indeed brilliant. It’s correctly placed after the BM in this tasting, but I still think the BM the better wine – but feel free to invite me to confirm in a few years…
Wide fresh and really, really complex, red fruited wine. Rounder, more cosseting, lots of dimension, lots of width. The biggest wine here, and with less austere structure than Amoureuses. A wine that’s holding it cards to its chest, but in scale and proportion, the best here today, even if its only modestly communicative…
Another strong set of wines here, and I see a much wider adoption of DIAM closures – which judging by the oxidative nature of my last 3 bottles of 2010 Beaune Clos Blanc de Grèves, can only be a step in the right direction.
Bright, wide, yellow citrus nose and a faintly mineral depth. Bright attack. Big but rather nicely textured, a little spice and grapefruit in the finishing flavours. This is super!
2014 Santenay Clos de la Malte
Wide with sweetness and high tones, a suggestion of salinity and barrel. A hint of gas. Here again is silk, a little more roundness but no fat. A beautiful intensity if high tones mandarin, satsuma style fruit. Really lovely…
2014 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Clos de la Croix de Pierre
Deeper, a little tighter, maybe with a hint more ripeness. This is fresh and rather more spicy than the last two. Deeper fruit, almost suggesting mouth-watering banana. Fresh and delicious…
2014 Beaune 1er Bressandes
Really wide, lovely freshness, here perhaps with a little lime fruit. Supple, open, comforting indeed inviting you to keep sipping. Not a wine of intensity, rather round but fresh cosy-ness. Yum! Really good finishing density of sweet fruit.
Wide, fresh. – no fruit, here is minerality. Fresh yellow fruit and a very fine acidity. The balance is top-notch, with an intense mid-palate that slowly leaches finishing flavour. Less overt fruit, but really super none-the-less.
2014 St.Aubin 1er Murgeurs les Dents du Chien
Ouf! – A bright, ebulient nose of yellow fruit and a hint of oak. Good weight in the mouth and decently energetic and balanced. This is very lovely, certainly the intensity is slightly cushioned, but this is a beaut!
2014 Meursault 1er Charmes
A wide, detailed and beautiful meursault nose – a real classic. A hint of gas. Wide, with some minerality, here is an inderstated wine, but with no understatement about the intesity. Detailed, fresh and super appealing wine…
2014 Meursault 1er Genevrières
Also wide and detailed, discreetly complex too. Rounder but with perfect freshness and no fat. Here is a little mid-palate ginger and a very fine finishing, spicy complexity – excellent!
2014 Duc de Magenta, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos de la Chapelle
A pretty high toned aroma but essentially a rather tight nose. Round, moderately energetic, a flavour profile that today reminds me more of meursault, but the finish is broad, energetic and complex – impressively so. Yum!
Less wide, an up and down aromatic. A hint of gas, but lithe and complex in personailty – another wine that talks to you, but at high speed. The finish is a beauty, wide, indeed panoramic with fine citrus fruit and a mouth-watering sweetness. Bravo!
Yellow fruit and quite some depth too. Here is energy and intensity, waves of flavour delivering the interest. A super wine.
Deeply aromatic – fresh but with a certain brilliance of concentration. Here is a big wine, mineral and very complex. Not a particularly fat wine but certainly with a little padding, but really an aching complexity. Really fine to follow, the finish is brilliant – with a long lasting tannin impression too.
From the Puligny side.
Wide and fresh yellow fruit on this nose. Slowly adding depth of aroma too. Big,msweet fruit but with a mineral acidit that makes no excuses for that. Very silky texture just with a discreet padding. Very lovely flavour that bursts forward from your gums with sweet and complex fresh flavour. Bravo!
A higher toned width of aroma – but what width! Here with just a very modest reductive/agrumes character. Agin a certain sweetness, but more direct and with a little less padding. The flavours are wide, fresh but concentrentrated and mineral. A beautiful bright finishing flavour here – holding a super line of flavour. Encore, bravo….