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Boisset Jean-Claude – 2014

DSC08914Tasted in Nuits St.Georges with Grégory Patriat and Laure Guilloteau, 07 December 2015.

Jean-Claude Boisset
5 Quai Dumorey
21700 Nuits St.Georges
Tel: +33 3 80 62 61 61
www.boisset.fr

Grégory on 2014:
“2014 was interesting because it was challenging. I didn’t want to harvest earlier. I think it may have been that many may have harvested a little too early. For me it’s clearly a white wine vintage it’s only once or twice a decade for such possibilities in white. Red is interesting because of the challenge. They needed patience. We don’t talk about our yields as the were not good! But I’m really happy with this vintage.”

Grégory on 2015:
“I don’t like to talk about the wines and it’s too early to focus on it in my head. A great vintage in red I think, the question will be whether it’s a vintage ‘Bourguignone.’ The whites are ripe and I really don’t know how they will turn out. Let the winter pass and we might get a better idea.”

The wines…

All were racked, except the Chambolle Charmes and Beaune Grèves. Nothing is in bottle yet. Generally late malos here – probably they were a little blocked due to cold cellars – a little colder than normal due to the construction work above the cellars.

2014 Bourgogne Nature d’Ursulines
No sulfur in vinification, only after the malo and a little now while assembled. Grapes from Nuits St.Georges, the best grapes from the entry-level wine. 50 yo vines and 50% new oak as it helps to reduce the volatile acidity.
Deep round almost a comforting whole-cluster element but this is destemmed. Bright, round, concentrated, a little soft tannin texture in the mid-palate. This is excellent, really excels in mid-palate to finishing flavour. Super wine.

2014 Santenay
A new contract as Grégory wasn’t really happy with the last, this from just under Santenay Comme.
Great colour. Round but a lovely fresh dark fruit with some floral aspects – fully destemmed, lovely aroma. Silky, more direct, more width of flavour. Good as the last wine was, here is more clarity and bright finishing complexity. Excellent!

2014 Chorey-lès-Beaune Les Beaumonts
Malo finished last Friday – some 15s were finished before. 50+80 year-old vines from two parcels.
Deep colour. A fresh dark fruit nose, very engaging, faintly spiced too. Intense, washes over the palate with waves of flavour. A big burst of flavour. Big, expressive wine but frankly excellent.

2013 Côte de Nuits Villages Le Clous
The vines sitting just behind the cemetery in Corgoloin near Clos des Langres. This used to be declassified in the bourgogne, now the second vintage separated. 3 barrels – 2 weeks ago the malo finished.
Wide and deeply fruited with freshness and a faint barrel spice. Bright, more direct and narrow yet with good padding. A bright and fresh wine in the mouth but not austere as there’s a faint sucrosity too. Long finishing with a faint herb.

2014 Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Planchots
Haven’t made this cuvée since 2009 – so a new contract, Boisset do all harvesting et-cetera. this was the first malo in the cellar to finish – in July.
Really a fine nose, dark fruited with a floral impression too. A width on the palate with redder fruit and a faint oak and a nice sweetness – which is required as there is a line of bright acidity through the core plus some oak flavour. This drinks very well today – yum!

All the previous wines were destemmed, now some with whole clusters:

2014 Aloxe-Corton 1er les Valozières
50% whole-cluster.
Wide, comforting aromas with freshness, a round, but not full nose – indeed elegant. Beautifully silky, classic 2014 delivery of flavour in waves. Only slowly grows some tannin in the mid-palate but it remains modest and fine textured. Elegant but not lite Aloxe. Excellent!

2014 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Lavières
Very low yields in this vintage – about 20 hl/ha. 100% destemmed in first vintage. Malo also finished 2 weeks ago.
Deep and dark, super depth. Almost a cushioning of flowers above. Wide, waves again, direct flavours, very supple and with some mouth perfume. This exerts itself more than the Aloxe. Brightly intense and a little floral in the finish. Very fine.

2014 Ladoix 1er Les Hautes Murottes
50% whole cluster – everything around is planted to white. 25hl/ha.
Deep and wide and intense – really a concentrated profound nose. Big and round, a hint of tannin here, very fine leaching fruit flavour. A Corton in all but name. Excellent wine – great finishing, great wine.

2014 Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs
100 year-old vines or at least between 90 and 100. Malo finished last week. Fully destemmed.
Deep, macerating, floral fruit – super. Lithe, some silk, wide in the mouth with insinuating rather than penetrating acidity. Really fine, almost elegant flavour. This is very fine! And floral finishing too.

2014 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Murots
Near the stade de football, more meagre soil than En Champs. Hard here in the dryness. 50% whole cluster
Wow, lovely nose, grand cru in stature. Lithe, direct, mineral, only slowly the flavour leaches from the line in to the finish, slowly filling out your palate. Less easy than En Champs, ultimately more rewarding. Really great from the mid-palate into the finish.

2013 Nuits St.Georges Les Charbonnières
Vines next to the Clos des Grands Vignes 1er monopole of Comte Liger-Belair.
Whole cluster notes again, just a little more gothic. The palate is complex mix of flowers, licorice and more structure. Good wine but it doesn’t pull me in today…

2014 Chambolle-Musigny
Malo finished 2 weeks ago.
A slightly guarded nose, not bright like the others – more time needed. No note.

2014 Beaune 1er Les Grèves
Deep, comforting, faintly oaked, sweet – magic. A little gas, but effusive, large but not fat, fully destemmed. Really a wide motorway of flavour going into the long finish. Clearly excellent.
2014 Vosne-Romanée Les Jacquines
Close to Clos de Reas, near Nuits. Organic vines. 50% whole-cluster.
Deep complex and spicy, very faintly reduced I think. Fills the mouth, round and complex with a good spice and sufficient airiness. Long and very tasty finishing. Very gourmand – really super finishing flavour.

2014 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Charmes
Barrel sample like the Grèves. 50% whole-cluster.
Wide and deep yet a rather tighter impression as I don’t find the clarion call of fruit here. Plenty of gas, wait and the structure grows, the flavour grows in tandem, this is really wide and complex on the palate. I still find this a little unformed but the structure and shape seem very fine.

Les Blancs…
Zero batonnage for all wines.

2014 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits
Bio will have a full 18 month elevage – so a March bottling.
Deep, almost pungent, very faintly savoury. Big and round in the mouth – this is concentrated but bright and mouth-watering. Big but very tasty wine.

2014 Saint Veran
from la Cote Rotie, fermented in barrel.
Wide and fresh with a little weight too – fine fresh lemon. A little gas, but here are waves of flavour, fresh citrus and with concentration too – excellent

2014 Marsannay blanc
None in 2012 and 2013.
Deep, pungent, round but there is freshness too. Fresh a little gas, penetrating flavour. It’s a rare Marsannay blanc that I like, but I really like this… really fine and long, mouth-watering finish.

2014 Auxey-Duresses Les Crais
From 50 year-old vines.
Deep, less width, a deep perfume. Bright, fresh and really not what I’m expecting after the nose, but slowly this becomes nicely fresh and intense, with a similar perfumed backing. Fabulous explosive finish. Not my personal favourite flavour profile, but no doubt that its super wine.

2014 Santenay 1er Passetemps
Deep, perfumed almost a little muscaté yet gorgeously fresh and inviting at the same time, with layers of aroma. Big in the mouth, deep and complex bass notes, fresh and a little mineral. This has richness of flavour yet no lack of balancing acidity. Deep almost agrume finishing but majoring more on orange – blossom? Super.

2014 St.Aubin 1er En Remilly
Recently finished malo.
Wide and with a modest freshness – discreet but clearly a great aroma – reminds of a baby Bâtard. Big in the mouth, round and rich yet mineral and mouth-watering. Beautiful, waves of flavour into the finish. Simply excellent wine.

2014 Meursault Le Limozin
Racked into stainless-steel, to be bottled in March.
Almost a hint of torrefaction and reduction – sweet and inviting but certainly individual. Beautiful texture, still a hint of toffee flavour, but the way this melts across the palate is exceptional. Almost the shape of a Genevrières… The finish is long and mouth-watering. It will be interesting to see bow this has changed when it gets towards the bottling…

2014 Puligny-Montrachet Les Tresins
Still in barrel. The highest vines in Puligny – ‘for this villages to reach 12 degrees you must be very patient.’
A beautiful nose with sweetness, freshness and bright but focused yellow citrus notes. Really wide, lithe, citrus inflected, faintly mineral, faintly oak inflected beautiful wine. Pure and clean and bright in the mid-palate before very slowly fading. Simply excellent.

2014 Meursault 1er Les Charmes
Lower vines, 200m from Limozin but always with great acidity – ‘I can’t explain it.’
The nose is not fully formed – it’s a little cloudy too. In the mouth this is excellent, complex and fresh, intense, really intense in the mid-palate and long too. Really fine 1er cru, but wait for the finished wine.

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