Tasted in Beaune, courtesy of the BIVB, 11 December 2015.
Two or three times a year the BIVB help arrange a blind tasting for me, this time the theme was Ladoix 2013. It’s simple – I work my way through the wines blind and those that seem outstanding to me are noted here, and afterwards the labels are added to the notes and also to the memory for useful future visits:
36 wines; villages and 1ers of both colours. Of-course, the best wines, as always are highlighted in their little boxes…
First the Villages reds:
Modest colour. Aromatic, some herbs and sweet, powdery red fruit. In the mouth this is really excellent – its layered, balanced and with a very fine density of flavour. Hardly an impression from the tannin. Easy, tasty and with concentration. Lovely finish too – excellent.
2013 Edmond Cornu, Ladoix Vieilles Vignes
Much deeper colour. A tighter but deep nose that’s fresh and clean above. Pretty, bright, high-toned fruit that’s frank and direct but importantly quite tasty too. Lovely mouth-watering flavour intensity. Excellent again, but chalk and cheese vs the first.
Even deeper colour. Some faint herb, some suggestion of dark cherry skin but a rather tighter nose. Mouth-filling, very good concentration for a villages, and a lovely fresh and intense mid palate flavour. A little more serious tannin below. Long and lingering with a little florality to the fruit flavour. Excellent.
2013 Clavelier, Ladoix
More a medium colour. The nose is modest with some pretty, if faint raspberry notes. Supple, with flowers and fruit. Layers of flavour that comfort the palate without ever failing to be clean and incisive. Modestly lingering. Super!
2013 Bonnardot, Ladoix Les Ranches
Medium colour. Pretty warm red fruit, well-defined and inviting. More direct, some herb notes, more intense an undertow of tannin then a bright burst of finishing flavour before slowly fading. A little more Corton in aspect – that’s a compliment!
Medium, medium-plus colour. A bright, energetic and very pretty top layer of aroma that’s also faintly floral. Wide, fresh, and intense really bursting with intensity in the mid-palate. Long too. Another wine that’s a little more Corton in shape. Less instant gratification today but a wine that will clearly be excellent – I’d wait the best part of 3-5 years for this!
2013 JB Bejot, Ladoix Les Chaillots (Vincent Sauvestre)
Medium, medium-plus colour. Big, bright, open nose with plenty of herbs. A little softer entry, despite lots of fine mouth-watering flavour and evidently fine acidity. A little herb in the mid-palate too – but just one element in a broad complexity. The overall aspect here is fresh and a little less ripe than some, yet it’s got great complexity and tasted great too.
2013 Martin Doufour, Ladoix Les Chaillots
Medium, medium-plus colour. A modest width of aroma, herb and fruit intertwined. Lush, almost fruit cordial aspect with a base of discreet tannin and plenty of energy and acidity. There’s certainly complexity, and all is correct, but It is less inviting to take another sip.
2013 Prin, Ladoix
Fresh, wide, complex and deep – an attractive introduction! A little more suggested texture a little richer fruit, well balanced and with a fine mid-palate concentration. A young wine, with less overt energy than some but composed and with a fine weight of flavour. Very tasty wine!
2013 Catherine et Claude Marechal, Ladoix Les Chaillots
Pretty fresh red fruit notes – airy and open. A hint of jamminess to the fruit flavour but it’s (clearly) ripe, layered, and with a good base of acidity and modest tannin – its also delicious with just a suggestion of richness to the flavour and texture. Bright pretty finishing flavours too – lovely wine!
2013 Cachat-Oquidant, Ladoix Les Madonnes
Medium, medium plus colour. Open, herby and with nice red fruit top notes, a very faint spice too, but below its tight. Bright, cool fruited, intense, mouth-filling – there’s really a lot happening here. Complex and intense in the mid-palate with this herbal accent to the intense fruit. Lots to commend here – super wine.
2013 Chapelle, Ladoix Les Vris
Medium, medium-plus colour. A very different aromatic, first hinting of oak but it’s quickly replaced by concentrated, tightly wound fruit that also slowly adds a hint of florality. I started with a dislike of the nose but it’s becoming more compelling. Lithe, modestly fresh, layers of red fruit – seemingly more exotic cherry than the others here. A little tannin at the end of the mid-palate that the flavour has to slowly navigate – and it does. From a flavour perspective I vacillate between not liking and liking a lot!
Deep, interesting and fine nose of great fruit with a suggestion of flowers. Supple, almost sumptuous, with layers of flavour and a long line of intense flavour that spreads out over the palate. Really comforting, contemplative but excellent!
Medium colour – one of the paler ones in this selection. But the nose is deep and generous with a subtly complexity – it’s very inviting. Also a supple wine, just a shade less rich than the last one, wide, with ripe, well-defined fruit. Likewise the line of finishing flavour is of perfectly ripe fruit nicely carried by the wine’s acidity. Lingers well too. Super.
2013 Dubreil-Maratray, Ladoix Les Nagets
Medium, medium-plus colour. Pretty and fresh dark-red fruited top notes with a weight of tighter aroma below. Big in the mouth but fresh, lithe and with energy. Lots of action here, with fine fruit, really modest tannin and not so modest very tasty flavour. This is relatively undemanding wine but delicious.
Medium-plus colour. A rather discreet nose but with a clean if discreet depth of aroma next time my nose hits the glass – poof! Violets. Beautiful fruit, concentration complexity and energy – everything is packaged here in consumer friendly fashion. Simply excellent and delicious. Really great finishing too with a little sucrosity –yum! Easily 1er cru level performance!
Premiers Cru Rouge:
Medium-plus colour. A good breadth of aroma. Extra impact in the mid palate. Fresh and silky wine with a growing intensity of flavour. Complex in the mid-palate and with fine intensity. This is simply excellent!
2013 Edmond Cornu, Ladoix 1er La Corvée
Deep colour. A fresh but rather tight nose. Much more direct, great intensity, a growing. slightly dry edged tannin. but really effusive, ebullient fresh mid-plate flavour of excellent intensity. Long finishing too. Large-scaled but also just a little tight a wine that seems to rush you into the finish but with a ruffle of your hair (if you have any) on the way. I like it!
2013 Henri Ferrand Naudin, Ladoix 1er La Corvée
Medium-plus colour. Deep, spicy discreetly oak inflected nose but there is fruit at the base – admittedly its very attractive. Round sweetly fruited, just a suggestion of cushioning and lots of flavour complexity – here with plenty of barrel references. A growing intensity of finishing flavour too. A little more contemplative than many, and certainly the most oak – so far – but essentially a very tasty wine. I’d wait about 3-5 years with a hope that the oak flavour would fade. Very tasty wine.
2013 Chevalier, Ladoix Le Clou d’Orge
Quite deeply coloured. A potent weight of tight fruit waiting to escape the glass. Wide, open, with a great base of acidity and rather modest tannin a right up to the finish where a slight increasing edge of dryness creeps in. Tasty wine, but essentially rather primary. – today…
2013 Chevalier, Ladoix La Corvée
Deeply coloured. Reduced but ripe and very inviting. Big, fresh, complex and full this just needs a carafe – its very good. The reduction remains on the palate but the rest of the wine is just so full of flavour it can almost be neglected. Yum!
Medium-plus colour. A very becoming and inviting depth of aroma – tighter above. Big, extra bright and energetic. Complex, hyper interesting, mouth-watering enjoyment – it could detract from your conversation as it demands attention. Bravo!
Medium-plus colour. Ooh – that’s nice! Here is a ripe, warm and very wide fruit without any impression of cooked. Big and fresh but supple too, possibly some whole cluster here, a faintly spiced complexity with fine acidity that drives through the core. A real honey!
Medium, medium-plus colour. A discreet but pretty and modestly complex nose that’s towards the riper, cooked red fruit style but is very inviting. Round, supple, mouth-filling. Great intensity too particularly in the mid-palate. Despite the ripeness of fruit this is really very tasty indeed – with beautifully balancing fruit. I’m almost surprised to find a little dryness on the gums as an anecdote. This is excellent!
2013 Francois Captain, Ladoix 1er La Micaude
Medium-plus colour. Some high tones, but essentially a rather discreet nose. The palate is not discreet! Here is a wine of fine, mouth-filling scale and a subtle complexity. Yes still a hint hiding all that it (should) has(ve). This could be super!
2013 Parent, Ladoix 1er La Crvée
Medium, medium-plus colour. A discreet but round aromatic of fruit and spice but hard to get at more. Good scale in the mouth – really mouth-filling with complexity, some of energy and a well packaged tannin. This is very good indeed – tasty wine.
First the Villages:
2013 Edmond Cornu, Ladoix Blanc
Medium pale. A good depth of aroma, quite some ripeness. Round, mouth-filling with good intensity and balance – an impression of some weight of flavour and certainly concentration. Quite okay.
Medium. Here is a little more oak inflection and a deep weight of aroma too. Plenty of oak flavour but here is a certain vibrancy, silky texture and a good intensity and persistence of flavour. This needs time for the oak dominance to fade, but I think it could then be excellent!
Medium-pale. Bright, fresh discretely phenolic and citrussy – I’m primed! Lovely texture, waves of flavour some freshness, great finishing – YES!
Medium colour. Similarly bright, intense, fresh and faintly phenolic – here with a salty complexity. A hint of gas, more lemon- flavoured. Really great intensity of fruit flavour that slowly turns a little more to agrume. Similar yet different to the last, but still a lower case yes!
2013 Christian Perrin, Ladoix Les Nagets
Medium colour. A deep quite ripe core of aroma. Vibrant, lots of ripe flavour but delivered in mouth-watering fashion. This is rather tasty in the finish too with a suggestion of finishing tannin. Very good!
The 1er Crus:
2013 Louis Max, Ladoix 1er Les Grechons
Medium-pale lemon yellow. A modest nose that’s faintly soft but remains very inviting. A little too much gas. I swirl a while (in the mouth) to reduce the effect of the gas and I feel plenty of complexity indeed a little attractive phenolic element too – with a tannic impression. Honestly the gas makes this hard to judge, but carafe and I think you have something very tasty.
2013 Clavelier, Ladoix 1er Le Clous d’Orge
Deep, a little ripeness and a little reductive firework note. Supple, nicely textured, concentrated, layered flavour with some oak references and still some reduction here too. Seems like a wine that does an okay impression of wanting to be a grand cru, actually a good impression. Very good wine, but I’d wait for the oak to fade so 2+ years
2013 Bejot, Ladoix 1er Hautes Murottes Blanc (Vincent Sauvestre)
Pale. Deep, cushioned nose. A faintly oak width. Attractive if not that exciting. Lithe, intense and complex on the palate. This is big and exciting here. Buxom certainly I’d be tempted to see how good a conversation I could have in another year or too – lots of potential I think.
2013 Francois Captain, Ladoix 1er Hautes Murottes
Medium colour. Hmm – nice – fresh, wide and complex aromas. A suggestion of gas and certainly a ripe core of fruit, but here is very fine texture and flavour too, really wide finishing. Not the best here but really fun and very tasty, even with a slug of oak in the finish.
Medium colour. A discreet freshness of aroma with a faint salinity, below there is something bigger and riper. Nicely ample textured, lots of concentration, weight and complexity too. Ouf! This is good. Fabulously balanced and impressive. The fruit is ripe but the overall stance of the wine is excellent – I’d drink this sooner rather than later as its so excellent right now!