Tasted in Beaune with Frédéric Barnier, 10th December, 2014
21 Rue Eugène Spuller
Tel: +33 3 80 22 10 57
Simply something that could/should excite everyone. Really indelible quality in many of these wines. Bravo!
2013 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Clos de la Croix de Pierre
Slightly deeper colour. Deep and wide – slightly mineral. Much more width, freshness and complexity – lots of verve here, and some tannin too. Very good!
Higher toned, lovely red fruit with fine depth too. More concentration, more texture and faint plushness. Very good flavour complexity – lingers very well – excellent.
Quarter of a normal yield…
Deeper nose, more perfumed. Much more definition and energy here, slightly more tannin, slightly drying too – but fine, high-toned cool, fruit. I love this flavour complexity. Super mouth-watering.
2013 Volnay Clos de la Barre
More ripe, more deep but fine transparent fruit. Deeper, darker fruit in the mouth too – still plenty of acidity and a slight green herb note. I would wait for this to round out but lots of finishing complexity here.
2013 Pommard 1er Clos de la Commaraine
Fresher, higher-toned but darker fruit too – very engaging. Lots of action, fine balance – the flavour is more direct and with plenty of fine tannin too. An extra something in the mid-palate here. Fine and great finishing!
2013 Corton Pougets
“Very special part of Corton with the white soil of Charlemagne.”
Modest but pretty and detailed, slightly sweet fruit. Much silkier to start but then a certain astringency of tannin exerts itself. Concentrated, intense flavour in mid-palate into the finish – super length, with a little herb. Yum again!
2013 Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Boudots
Spicy, dark and fresh – yes! Not more concentrated than the Corton but rounder and with more texture. Lovely bright fruit in the finish. Again a slightly herbal aspect to the finishing flavours.
Crystallised dark fruits – precise yet quite modest. Rounder and fuller than the Boudots, fine tannin and very fine mid-palate complexity. This is lovely! Lovely finish too.
Ouf! Wonderful, powerful, complex nose, edged with oak. Super-silky, borderline fat, full of flavour – yes some oak here too, but real class!
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Baudes
Finer, less intense and less oaky. Again, very silky indeed – slowly insinuates itself into the palate – long, long and contemplative. Very fine wine. Darker finishing flavour.
2013 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er les Cazetiers
Deeper colour. Not high-toned but very deep with a faint toasted bread. Sweet, full-fruited – dark-red fruit with lots of concentration. The tannins are more prominent here than many Cazetiers I’ve tasted – and this is a fatter version than some – but a wine to lust after none-the-less!
This has a super aromatic, more high-toned but almost textured and comforting. Beautiful, sweet and ripe fruit, excellent fine texture – modest tannin vs many in the range. The fruit is a little primary, but round and very, very tasty wine. Fine high-toned finish. This is really super!
Not so wide but deep notes and high notes – more complexity here for sure. You meet the shape and structure first, the flavour comes later. Less ‘gourmand’ and more complex after the Estournelles. Lots of mid-palate complexity. Super tasty too but very, very different to the Estournelles! Really distinguished by the extra length of flavour.
I know people say CSJ should be GC – and it may be the best of the 1ers – but the nose here is on another level of weight AND complexity – deep, precise, many fine dark-fruit notes and there are flowers too. A mineral palate, hyper-complex, yet with weight plus ripe fruit too – the ripe fruit comes to the fore in the mid-palate and towards the finish. Lovely, deep but mouth-watering finish. Excellent.
Higher toned than the Chapelle, discreet but again, very complex. Much wider palate, also with more insinuating intensity. There’s some tannin drag but no grain, and hardly any astringency. Really super wine here – again excellent and very different again. Great, more fruit-led finish
“A surprising tenderness in CV 2013” – I’m surprised they think so, based on this example!
Bright, fresh and complex – not showing many bass notes. Big in the mouth – very big – but not round. This is hyper-serious, concentrated, tannic wine. Super GC quality. But a wine for the patient. It will be magnificent (eventually!). The finish is very long and has the easiest flavours of fruit, but still long and complex.
Wide and deep, like Fuées a strong barrel augmentation here. Velvet, and very good depth too. Lots of (almost) coconut barrel flavour too, but the wine overall is big, flavourful ripe and complex. It will be excellent, but this coconut will take 10 years to fade – maybe…
Some high tones and a more limited depth – quite a discrete nose today. A similar shape to the Echézeaux, but even finer texture. Big, with slowly growing intensity. Super-impressive in the mid-palate. Assured excellence here!
More open, fresher, more mineral. I’m surprised that seems a little more intense. It’s round but less round, and has a comforting tannic texture, but the flavour is more high-toned and tasty – brilliant length. This is really excellent!
2013 Santenay Clos de la Malte
Ouf! A big punch of fresh but deep aroma – slight cream – very lovely. Some richness but lots of extract and balancing acidity. Again a little creaminess and very good length.
2013 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Clos de la Croix de Pierre
Narrower but similarly deep with fine freshness. More lithe and energetic, yet still weight and richness in the mid-palate – again a faintly creamy note. Fine finishing density.
Deep, fresh and pepper-complex – I like! Faint gas, but here is a silky, mineral wine of fine mid-palate concentration – extra mid-palate intensity too. Excellent!
Really a picture-perfect Meursault nose of width and faint ginger-cake. Lovely energy here despite a little richness – real dimension of flavour – finely complex. This dances on the tongue, super finishing density too. Excellent
2013 Meursault 1er Perrières
This is in tank.
A more discrete nose with high tones and a suggestion of flowers. Rich and silky but with fine balance – the mid-palate is ever-more complex and with a certain hint of minerality and perfume. Very fine, but I’ve a preference for the Genevrières this time.
2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Abbaye de Morgeot
Pretty, transparent and complex – faintly floral too. Denser in the middle, growing complexity around – then a little coconut. Here is a very good wine indeed. Super finishing intensity!
2013 Duc de Magenta, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos de la Chapelle
A high-toned freshness and complexity here. More richness but fine balancing acidity – actually very fine. This is big wine with lots of personality and again a great finish. Very fine!
2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Caillerets
Discrete but deep with some oak inflection. Again some richness but more direct and linear flavours – with less oak than the nose suggests – but still… Fine finish. Yum!
2013 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Combettes
A beautifully high-toned aromatic, that is complex but lacks no depth. Big but complex, not fat but concentrated, growing intensity. Very fine indeed – really finishing intensity and weight of flavour. Fine!
High tones, flowers, faint cream. A certain richness, but also a certain minerality, and citrus and salt and sweetness. The finish has a darker, herbal note. This is super-interesting wine and super-engaging too!
Only 2 barrels.
Again high-toned, more modestly deeper-toned – yet with a certain silkiness and ripeness to the aromas. A little gas – probably because of that a little less focus, but more intensity and concentration. More of everything in fact yet with fine balance. Harder to taste but will be brilliant.
From the Puligny side.
Discrete but very pretty high tones – no bass notes. Again a hint of gas, here the flavour is equally rich and deep as the Pucelles but with more energy and a mineral impression. Fine and really great finishing intensity of flavour. Excellent!
Another wine of really complex high tones, but limited depth. Silky, slight fat, growing intensity and magnificent complexity. The finish really has an extra dimension, then a reboot of flavour – more classically a peacock’s tail. Excellent!