Tasted in Beaune with Gilles de Courcel and Jean-Pierre Confuron, 15 December, 2014
Chanson Père et Fils
10 Rue du Collège/r Paul Chanson
Tel: +33 3 80 25 97 97
Jean-Pierre on 2013:
“The reds in Beaune have only about 8hl/ha, similar in Savigny and perhaps only 12 hl/ha in Pernand. The grapes fortunately had good maturity.
“Whites also a very low yield in 2013 – the lowest since 2003. All the whites are sealed with DIAM this year – DIAM 10 for first wines and DIAM 30 for most of the crus – new this year.”
Depends on the purchases, but this can be an assemblage of many parcels and owners.
Pretty red nose, a little modest but with some floral aspects. Soft, actually very silky – plenty of fruit dimension too. Fine intensity in the mid-palate and good length. Excellent BPN to drink moderately young
Again from different producers and different terriors in Fleurie.
Deeper colour, deeper nose with some sweetness but more modest top notes. Big and round in the mouth – tasty but not just sweet fruit – it’s cut by very good acidity and good intensity too.
Super floral nose and the impression of faint gas. Silky, bright fruit, plenty of intensity in tandem with the acid. Good mid-palate flavour and complexity – some oak flavour here, but rather good !
2013 Nuits St.Georges
Contracts but harvested by the Chanson team – 3.5 hectares may 20% new oak here.
Deep faintly spiced – the merest suggestion of some reduction. Some gas, but wait and the intensity grows – fine direct and intense flavour with good acidity. Fine length too, with a faint cushioning of dry but velvet tannin. Yum!
From over 4 hectares of vines between Gevrey and Brochon – all from one supplier.
Wide nose of dark, faintly spiced fruit – nice aromatic complexity here – lovely. The main difference here versus the NSG is a more dynamic personality – lovely and complex too – the finish slowly fanning out. Really excellent!
2013 Domaine Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Les Vergelesses
Deeply coloured. Higher toned but with a tighter core of aroma. Very wide, slowly leaching mouth-watering flavour and faintly furry tannin in-tandem. Excellent extra dimension of mid-palate flavour. This is very, very good.
More floral but with a precise collection of dark berries too. In the mouth this is larger-scaled, the tannin grows more than the PV but with a little less dryness. Lovely mix of high and low tones and a slowly lingering finish. Again excellent!
2013 Clos de Bèze
A long-term contract here.
More understated aromatic, but with superb depth and complexity – a beauty. Quite a bit of gas, but with patience, comes lots of complex intensity – truly excellent length too. Super wine!
2013 Bourgogne Chardonnay
No purchases in must. A mix of Côte de Beaune, Côte de Nuits (Marsannay) and Chalonnaise fruit, mainly elevaged in 350 litre demi-muids.
Deep, faintly salty and toasty with bread. Round, rather mineral flavour with good texture and depth. The flavour is a little savoury for my taste but the acidity and finish are excellent for the label.
2013 Macon La Roche Vineuse
No wood here.
A clearer fruit component to the nose, riper at the core too but with a little high-toned spiced element. Round, nicely textured and with fine freshness – I worried from the nose that this might be a little ripe, but no, it sits and indeed washes across the tongue with ease. Very good.
The heart of Chanson’s activity in Maconnais, from Viré and Clessé…
Deep and salty – not distracting savoury notes though and slowly a very pretty floral note comes too. Very silky, slightly fat but with fine balancing acidity – the acidity and flavour slowly increase in intensity. A fine and mineral Macon – excellent!
Big activity in Chablis with 4 1ers and 4 GCs always with the same producers. Here are many parcels combined, there is just 1 cuvée and 1 bottling of this.
High-toned, fresh and inviting, the depth slowly adds some shape too. Silky, indeed similar shape to the Viré-Clessé, but with just a little more sweetness to the fine acidity. A great buy.
Vinified with 20% new oak.
Very faintly reduced, but attractively so with faint floral notes and a nice weight of aroma below. Quite mineral and lots of complexity and intensity. There is a faint coconut in the background – which I quite like, but probably shouldn’t be there. Overall, an excellent, delicious wine.
2 hectares of vines on the opposite side of the road to Bonneau du Martray’s Charlemagne.
Fine aromatic depth, almost textured, it encourages you to take another sip. Here the intensity, freshness and minerality are on another level to the Meursault. There’s lots and lots of complexity here – a real shell-fish wine. The finish is super too. More mineral than delicious but with super interest!
Almost 2 hectares of vines.
A little salted, toasted bread aromatic weight without too much complexity today – very slowly a floral aspect also rises from the glass over ripe lemon – I like the way that this keeps changing in the glass! Big in the mouth, lots of complexity, fine balancing acidity – but the mid-palate flavour keeps growing and also changing. A fine, wide palate of flavour in the finish too Excellent wine!
From contracted grapes.
The nose starts with faintly saline high tones, the intensity slowly grows but it remain direct rather than super-complex. Here is a large-scaled wine; one that’s concentrated and leaches interesting flavours as the acidity grows – here it is very complex, slightly soft-textured but lacking nothing for clarity. The finish is a modest one, but only in terms of intensity not length – very long. Fine Corton-Charlemagne.