Tasted in Morey St.Denis with Jeremy Seysses, 15 November, 2016.
7 Rue de la Bussière
Tel: +33 3 80 34 01 00
Jeremy on 2016:
“It was a traumatic Spring. After the frost, we couldn’t initially assess all the damage – but we held out hope that it would be okay. It was mainly just the top leaves that got frosted, so we were essentially very lucky in Morey – our volumes were like those of the early 2000s – actually quite generous, but then of-course we lost much of Chambolle. Mildew was here of course, it was brutal, but with work, work, work we finally got through it. There was some sun-burn but otherwise we cannot complain.”
Jeremy on 2015:
“Well, 2015 was hot, but the nights were more like 20-21°C – nothing like 2003 when it was 30°C at night. It’s a dry vintage rather than a hot vintage – the temptation was to make ‘monster wines’ because you can! We used a little more stems and just a little less oak.
Today the négoce part is about 15% of the total volume.
2015 Morey St.Denis
A modest but very silky nose. A decent structure and a very fine freshness. A super combination of structure, freshness and pretty fruit. Yum!
Millerandes and Ruchots mainly, but small parts of others too.
More depth, finer aroma. More oak for now, but also much more depth of flavour. Salinity, extra modest tannin. Simply a stunning finish!
2015 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Combottes
Racked 10 days ago.
A wide and beautiful nose. Wide on the palate too, if less deep, with redder fruit. Growing intensity. Nicely mineral, soft textured though. Again fabulously long…
More depth of aroma, a little darker fruit too. Wide, more layers of flavour, very well textured with a growing salinity. A great finish too – yum!
2015 Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Malconsorts
“From the northern-side of the vineyard, and for the detail conscious, this contains a tiny amount of Les Gaudichots” notes Jeremy. “It’s a vineyard that we have to think has a phenomenal quality possibility, so we always ak ourselves how will we reach that” he adds.
A little larger nose, good width and a very fine nose. Supple, a gorgeous blend of texture and weight and delicious flavour. The length is certainly much more modest intensity than the last wines – if not actual length – so this is more engaging up-front but less engaging to finish today.
2015 Clos de la Roche
A dark nose, maybe a hint of reduction – but it’s also exciting! Wide, silky, getting even wider. Fabulous texture. Long on a very mouth-watering line of flavour. Just super again, but like the Malconsorts, on a more subtle length.
2015 Clos St.Denis
Not yet settled, post racking.
Red fruit, more diffuse. The palate is invigorating and fresh, with gorgeous fruit – certainly less composed, but with a hint of raspberry. There is much to look forward to here.
A narrower aromatic, but one with a beautiful clarity of dark fruit and depth. A little more rigour, but with very fine flavours that melt from the skeleton of the wine. Yes!
A year in barrel for these, followed by concrete tanks. ‘A fairly oxidative first half of elevage, and moving more reductive for the tank part.‘ These whites are probably waiting for a March bottling.
Staying with cork, though DIAM is being trailed.
2015 Morey St.Denis (blanc)
A little reduction and some agrume aspects. Silky, supple, a growing mid-palate flavour and the acidity growing with it. A very fine mid-palate with extra citrus too. A wine that opens out, becoming more and more interesting. Holding a modest intensity but it’s still long and lovely.
Again faint reduction, perhaps a hint of sulfur too. More gas, but more freshness and line too. Vibrant and vigorous, with a citric mid-palate. Just a beautiful thing.
Wide, faintly reductive agrumes. Also fresher than the nose suggests, lots of energy, lots of little waves of flavour, faintly reductive, but nothing faint about the ‘deliciousness’ – bravo! ‘The word, restraint, doesn’t come to mind!?
2015 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Combettes
Old vines, with lots of ‘shot’ berries (millerandes).
Ooh, that’s an attractive nose – deep, with a twist of reduction. Bigger volume, a line of flavour that gets broader. A little more mid-palate density. Nice scale here.
And a couple of 2014s to finish…
Wow – fruit conserve, Bonnes Maman strawberry! Super texture, lithe, the intensity growing and a flavour to match the nose.
Forward, almost coffee-inflected red fruit. Hmm, great width, super intensity of flavour – complex including some minerality. Really lovely finishing wine. Bravo!