Tasted in Cheilly with Pablo Chevrot, 16 November, 2016.
Domaine Chevrot et Fils
19 Route de Couches
Tel: +33 3 85 91 10 55
Pablo on 2016:
“Lots of frost in some places, though generally not too much here in Maranges vs some villages – our Hautes Côtes was a catastrophe though – frost on this hillside in the last 50 years, has never seen. The 1er crus a good volume, it was the villages that were lost. We also lost control of the mildew so had to exit bio at that time – we only treated around flowering and were then back to bio, but we will lose the label for 3 years – but the harvest was saved. We had to take time for harvesting though, because the frost caused massive differences in maturity. We ended up 50% down in volume, and honestly were happy with that.
“It will certainly be a good quality, but lets see how good.”
Pablo on 2015:
“2015 was one of the easiest vintages of my career, nothing difficult, nothing extreme. I love 15, all the terroirs are well-defined…”
I note that their dog has left home though! Apparently their aunt’s treats (who lives just down the road) are better than those of the domaine!
The domaine produces about 30% white wine, 20% effervescent and rose, 50% red. The Bourgogne and Hautes Côtes are now in bottle, the rest of their wines are in tank or still in barrel.
2015 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
No new oak, bottled just before harvest. Filtered here, because really need a second winter to avoid. Young vines in village, from the bottom of the hill near the house.
Deep with flashes of dark fruit, perhaps a hint meaty. Big volume in the mouth, layered and with some richness and a good texture. Mid-palate and finish are the tastiest parts, but not really showing super special. A little tannin in the finish. I think it’s trace of sulfur from bottling that’s to blame…
2015 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune
All the grapes are from Cheilly; one part from behind the domaine and another part from close to St.Sernin.
A nose that’s a little more effusively red fruited, a little prettier. Lithe, good texture, and a very nice style of fruit. Tasty wine with a little tannin to finish. Yum!
Dark, mineral and very attractive nose. Extra depth and weight, less energy today, but really super layers of flavour. Really tasty wine. A nice fresh and bright finish too. Great value here.
2 parcels, one Chassagne-side of old degenerated vines, the other nearer Maranges, roughly equal sizes.
Deep and inviting, red fruited but also with a super depth of interest. Fresh, nice energy, a growing texture and tasty complexity. Very yum and I really like the length here. Super!
2015 Maranges 1er Clos Roussots
Pablo notes “It’s a hard vineyard to cultivate as the top and bottom parts have permeable soil, but the middle is all clay. I think it will take a little time to bring equilibrium to the vines.”
Great colour. Deeper, vibrant dark fruit, probably a hint of reduction too. Wide, fresh, more mineral and more floral fruit. A higher level of tannin but all very well packaged, and textured – certainly more austere than the Santenay today, but really super flavour. Yum again.
Nice colour. A deep nose, a little tighter though. Tight, concentred and then really opens out. Great quality here, super long.
2015 Maranges 1er Le Fussière
A fine stony cherry fruit here. Bigger and more energetic fine flavours here – no waiting here. A little more mo tannin, and then a bright and fine line of flavour. Like all these it needs time, but a lovely line…
2015 Maranges 1er Croix aux Moines
Oooh… mineral at the top, deep fruit below – super. Lithe, nice texture, more depth of layered flavour. Sumptuous flavour with a little extra richness. More interesting finishing flavour too. Yet, it seems less ready than the last, which I might drink in advance today – but bottling here wont be until mid January, so this has more time to improve.
1980s – the youngest vines here.
A deep and indeed pungent aligote nose – that’s a compliment! Silky but with great flavour. A super enjoyable wine here – classic and characterful for the label. excellent!
All fermentations in old barrels – maybe 5% new. The Hautes Côtes here are not really so ‘Haut’ as they are the same altitude as many villages appellations.
Depth and a little vibrancy to this nose. This feels great on the palate, wide, with good flavour, some power, but all is deftly delivered. A super finish. Bravo!
2015 Maranges Blanc
1.12 ha and 6 different parcels.
Much more mineral on the palate with an ingraining flavour. To start with I prefer the last wine, but this grows and grows in interest. And there’s a great finish. This is another wine of great character – the start here is more mineral, almost a suggestion of austere minerality, but really it’s super thereafter.
2015 Santenay Comme Dessous Blanc
This was harvested the 28 August but it is still over 14% – ‘We did less malolactic for first time in a long time.’
A big, silky nose, not obviously chardonnay! Big, layered delivery, but actually with a nice mineral side that brings freshness. Really very concentrated and also long. Less Burgundian, but tasty.
2015 Maranges 1er Le Fussière Blanc
This part of the vineyard is ploughed using a cable-pulley as it’s so steep. “Very young vines here, just 6 years old. Planted at the top of the slope where there’s lots of limestone and flint.”
A hint of toasty reduction. A depth with faint citrus too. Classic, fresh width, mouth-watering flavour growing much more citrus. Layers of flavour here, and as usual great length. Even with a tannic last impression.
This still in its big barrel. Actually it’s a barrel selection as there are about 6 barrels which are slowly whittled down to 2 or 3. The rest for the standard cuvée of aligoté. “Ploughed by horse, long elevage and (there will be) no fining or filtration.” There is none in 2016…
Deep and inviting nose – a little golden, but less obviously aligote. Mineral, fresh, complex. A super fresh mid-palate that grows before decaying in the finish…