Tasted in their new shop in Chablis with Frédéric Gueguen, 23 July 2021.
An early look at the team’s 2020s in their new – and very impressive – retail outlet, in Chablis.
Fred on 2020:
“Down in volume – roughly 45 hl/ha. It’s the first time that we harvested in August – the 27th – but we had good maturity and have a style that resembles 2019 but with extra richness. We are now all-natural yeasts which take longer to ferment. We started to bottle the range in March, beginning with the aligoté”
None of the aromatics were at full-power on this visit – which is why I like to taste a little later in January – but the wines were delicious even if not particularly ‘showy’ today – maybe I’ll try them again next January to have a more representative idea.
From 2018 the wines are DIAM sealed, not just the entry ones – some screw-cap also remain:
2020 Aligoté La Vigne de Marie Louise
Hmm – A width of aroma – quite aromatic this wine. Big, bright, bold – very well concentrated for the label and long finishing too.
2020 Saint-Bris Curiosité de Bourgogne
From Céline’s family. Harvested quite late, normally with a little golden colour to the grapes.
Deeply perfumed and aromatic. Nicely structural too, with a saline energy – delicious Saint Bris…
2020 Bourgogne Chardonnay Côtes Salines
Vines south of Préhy, a little from around St.Bris too – but the latter is only about 20% of the mix
A more waxy width of aroma. Bigger shaped and quite energetic in the mouth – mineral but not hard – structured but not with rigour. Tasty wine.
2020 Petit Chablis
From 1.3 hectares in Préhy.
A deep nose – slightly grassy. Nice volume in the mouth, a certain fat to this texture but this finish is also delicate and delicious – a fine finish…
From Préhy and Chichée – 6.5 hectares worth. With the Bourgogne the largest cuvée of the domaine.
More width, a fuller aroma of riper yellow citrus. Hmm, that’s quite a vibrant flavour in the mouth and very delicious. Excellent wine.
2020 Chablis ‘1975‘
‘We wanted to do a different cuvée but everyone does ‘old vines’, they are not the oldest vines that we have, but they are the same vintage as me and Céline!’ Vines in Préhy. A little extra time in elevage but all in tank – to be bottled in November.
A mineral vibration to this nose but much more so in the mouth – structural but again with no rigour a bit more juicy finishing than the last. Lovely again!
2020 Chablis 1er Vosgros
Two parcels, one in Vosgiros, together about 0.45 ha and with about 25 years of age. ‘Left bank but with orientation that’s more like a right bank vineyard’
A lemon-grass nose. Direct, more mineral but also with more weight to this wine too. Finishing with a super width of more saline accented flavour.
2020 Chablis 1er Vaucoupin
Older vines in one single parcel, planted in 1975.
Some floral characteristics and a little more mineral presence on this nose. A bit of green style to the flavours here – more grassy – wide, fine citrus too. The nose and the finish are super, I’m less of a fan of the first flavour. A fine finish here.
A contract wine. Probably to be bottled in November like the 1975. Also made with no oak.
No aromatic power here but it is subtly fine. Ooh – that’s so good, a relaxed style yet with cut and clarity too. This I love.
And a red to finish:
2020 Bourgogne Pinot Noir La Vigne d’Emile
Has usually made rosé with this but thought ‘why not’ this year.
A deep, pungent style to the fruit here, darker fruit – all destemmed. Concentrated, with flavours that are modestly framed with a small tannin but also a depth of almost black-cherry fruit. The flavour slowly fading – a wine of some power and plenty of interest…