Louis Moreau – some 2020s

Update 25.1.2022(1.11.2021)billn

Domaine Louis Moreau - Célia Barbaro 2021Tasted in Beines with Célia Barbaro, 23 July 2021.

Domaine Louis Moreau
10, Grande rue
89800 Beines
Tel: +33 3 86 42 87 20
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A ‘flying’ but much appreciated visit chez Domaine Louis Moreau, in the capable hand of Célia Barbaro, who started us off with an early peek at some 2020s:

The wines…

A domain that specialises in wines with clarity and definition – perfect for this hot and sunny day – with a treat at the end too!

There are 50,000 bottles of Petit Chablis here in a normal year, using a high percentage of screw-caps. Across the rest of the range, they are now using DIAMs; 3, 5 and 10, though in 2017 all the grands crus had normal cork:

2020 Petit Chablis
The major part is Beines towards Lignorelles on the plateau. Some above Les Clos too but that’s the smaller part. Our most accessible wine, said Célia – this in bottle for 1 month
Nice and forward, a pretty aromatic – faintly and nicely complex citrus. Easy over the palate – completely delicious – so drinkable – great juicy finishing PC

2020 Chablis
Usually about 25 hectares worth of vines. 80% from around Beines, the rest from the communes of Fleys and Chablis. There can be over 200k bottles of this cuvée.
A little narrower nose but still with a lovely extra-fine focus. Wider and more overtly mineral impression and modestly structural too – juicy again, and long too. Waves of mouth-watering finishing flavour. That’s very lovely wine.

2019 Domaine de Biéville, Chablis
From Viviers – 18km east of Beines. In the family since the 70s. South facing, on the plateau, not planted for a long time, pure Kimmerigian terroir.
A broader nose – very forward – slightly more herb complexity and depth. Here is a fine clarity and a suggestion more concentration. Textural, layered flavour – lovely wine – the previous is more delicious today but this has a different and also delicious width of finishing minerality.

2018 Chablis Cuvée ‘Les 8
Not yet selling the 2019 – hand-harvested 50-year-old vines in Viviers, all done the same as the 1er and GCs.
That’s a very different nose – more depth, a little mushroom – only a little. More direct, good structure. Again a good mouthwatering side to this wide and finishing nicely citrus in style…

2019 Chablis 1er Vau Ligneau
Back to Beine, more north, north-east facing – there are only 30 hectares of this 1er cru, and this domaine owns 10 of them.
Here is a nicely vibrant more mineral, faintly lemon fruited aroma. More energy, rushing, bubbling over the palate. A squeeze of lemon juice. That’s delicious.

2019 Chablis 1er Les Fourneaux
From true Fourneaux. 4 hectares.
A more golden fruit, a little pineapple with a peach addition. A rounder wine but still with that mineral and mouthwatering core. And it’s a long finishing wine too.

2019 Chablis 1er Vaillons
2 hectares at the base/heart of Vaillons, vines now 57 years old. All work made in an organic way, uncertified.
Hmm, citrus but a little more lime than lemon. So wide – easy over the palate, beautifully mouth-watering. A super intensity in the finish, clarity too. Excellent? No, I think bravo, a great Vaillons today.

2018 Chablis Vaudesir
About 2k bottles per year.
A narrower, less open, spiced-accented aroma – almost some honey. Nicely straight in the mouth – strict almost – but really big finishing – indeed so impressively finishing. Excellent GC.

2018 Chablis Les Clos
Fine airy, not powerful, faintly citrus florals. Wider, more mouth-filling, clarity, purity again. Another peak of finishing flavour – very delicious finishing.

And a treat to finish!

2010 Chablis Clos des Hospices
This wine would have seen barrel elevage at this time – today everything is in tank.
Deeper but still a young colour – citrus yellow. A bigger nose, faintly with creamy dried leaves. In the flavours the creamy aspects are more present. Super ‘cut’ I love the definition of the fine points of flavour here that’s entering a beautiful phase of drinkability. A wine to sink into!

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