Tasted in Gevrey with Jean-Louis Trapet, 25 June 2021.
Jean-Louis explain that this year they have been converting the whole domaine to higher vine-training; when I visited, 70% of the domaine was already done from the 19 hectares they own – parts done with a single stakes per vine.
Jean-Louis on 2020:
“2020 was a very precocious vintage in the spring and managed to keep that same tempo throughout the growing season – 26 August was the debut of our harvesting but we took our time…”
Jean-Louis on 2019:
“2019 was a year where all the different styles of pinot brought something extra. The flowering was quite long so there were some differences in maturity depending on the places when it came to the harvest. In this vintage we made a little less than in 2018 and less than other vintages ending with a 9 but it was not at a problematic level.”
The 2020s we sampled were delicious and augur very well for that vintage here, but the 2019s were equally great – some highly covetable wines to be found here.
We looked in on few 2020s from barrel before moving to the bottled 2019s:
A Bourgogne Passetoutgrains from old vines from 1965 on the limit of the Gevrey appellation in Les Grands Champs – a mix of pinot and gamay, the gamay slowly being replanted with pinot. Minima refers to the lack of sulfur during the elevage process – since 1995 – it will receive a little before bottling.
Impressive colour. Wide, vibrantly aromatic – forward and also impressive. Vibrant, fresh, direct saline, graphite finishing. Great PTG!
Made since 1985 when itr was labelled as Bourgogne – as the AOC was retroactive and they still had some bottles in the cellars they could use the label for those. There are two main components, 60% of which is Grasses Têtes but they are vinified apart.
Such a deep colour. Such a deep, strong nose too – faintly powdery but with such a depth of dark fruit. Hmm, an open wine, finely intense and mouth-watering. Simply excellent Marsannay.
2020 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Aux Combottes
Really perfumed from the whole clusters. A wine whose texture luxuriously moves over the palate – a blend of texture and mobility. Wide in the finish. Ooh, that’s so good!
Ooh – complex, pure not massive but there is everything. Structural, direct, hyper-complex – compelling wine – even at this early stage!
The 2019s (mainly)…
They started bottling the range of 2019s on the 5th of April and took one month to complete for all the cuvées. Each cork has it’s own reference number today, for traceability:
2019 A Minima
A calmer nose than the 2020 – but pure and complex. Full, mouth-filling, expressive but also still with fine intensity. Long finshing too – I like the line of this wine…
Faintly spiced, wide, great energy – that’s very fine. A framing of the flavours with a faint tannin but there’s no grain here. Wider in the middle and finish as the mouth-watering flavour expands, some small finishing bitters that will fade with time. Simply super wine.
One year older, to compare. Principally vines between Gevrey and Morey, all close to the 1ers
A more focused nose, complex, perhaps a faint tobacco note too. There’s such an extra dimension of flavour here, sophistication of texture too, with mouth-watering, melting flavour. Bravo villages!
2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée Ostrea
Mainly from older vines and in the direction of Brochon.
Not a large nose but still an impressive width, almost a suggestion of cocoa. A little more drag to the texture from the tannin. A more open and structural wine today – less accessible than the last – this for keeping whilst enjoying (to excess) the last wine. Still excellent!
Hmm – a dark nose – not so forward but beautifully defined, faintly smoky. Hmm, this is almost a combination of the previous two wines in shape and ease of drinking. That’s very tasty wine indeed.
A nose with a little smoke, a vibration of complexity below too. Super freshness combined with width – a tension. A middle that grows and grows, slowly adding some tannin. That’s super-impressive wine. Simply excellent grand cru.
Starting with a little reduction but becoming wider and more open with air. Direct, vibrant, cool-fruited, growing in intensity – just so complex. Such a baby, and to wait for, but with great anticipation – bravo…
Three parcels and three different types of soil – indeed a huge difference from bottom to the top; deep and clay at the bottom then some gravel in the middle and some white marne at the top ‘which brings a little tannin’.
A little fuller – there’s weight to the aroma here – but not just weight – a growing, fine herb, even mint complexity too – always understated but with super complexity. What texture – then a little tannin exerts itself – civilised – vibrant but round. Complete wine – but wait 20 years.
We finished with a tasting of their domaine in Alsace’s rieslings – and I bought a pack of their 2016 Riesling Beblenheim!