Tasted in Fixin, with Pierre-Emmanuel Gelin the 10 March 2016.
Domaine Pierre Gelin
22 Rue de la Croix Blanche
Tel: +33 3 80 52 45 24
This property was created in 1925 by Pierre Gelin. Today it is Pierre-Emmanuel Gelin who has taken on the responsibility from his father, Stéphen Gelin.
Since 2015 the domaine has been converting to managing their vineyards using organic methods. Although it’s ‘mostly done,’ certification will only come in 2019. A big new cuverie was completed between 2014 and 2015 at the bottom of the village, here they have a water filtration unit behind winery, “Every 5 years it’s changed and it makes a nice compost” says Pierre-Emmanuel.
There is one issue with the new cellar, it is built on the limit of the water-table – too much rain and they have to pump out!
The 2014s and 2015s are still in the cellar. The bourgogne raised in two big foudres of 25 hl and 16 hl. The 2014s have actually not all have finished malo, and some are just racked, so we wont taste those. 2012 is the current sales vintage so we tasted these.
2014 Bourgogne Chardonnay
1st vintage. From the commune of Fixin – there are lots of heavy clays that add rusticity which isn’t really good for chardonnay, only maybe 10% of the soils would support chardonnay in Fixin. This had 100% new oak in the first vintage.
Freshness, some spice – flows over the palate well, some savoury aspect like a lot of white Fixin, but there’s depth of flavour and good balance. The overall impression is in the direction of richness of delivery. Good length…
A blend of the many blocks of the domaine – lost 50% due to poor flowering in the spring. From about 3.5 hectares of vines, the biggest cuvée of the domaine.
Pretty, pure fresh fruits, dark fruits. Modest colour. Lovely width of sweet, tasty, but finely fresh fruit – lovely flavour and really some concentration in the mid palate.
The domaine has Arvelets and Hervelets, but they are vinified together. Had separate names when Fixin and Fissey were separate villages, but now all is classed as Fixin. Atypical for Fixin as a very fine soil. Hard to compare with 12 as 13 was more solar, but normally this is a more feminine wine. More material in 13.
Complex, encompassing, fresh wine – really invites you to take a sip. Bright, flowing flavour, nicely packaged, modestly sweet, lots of flavour. Fine finish. Lovely wine!
2012 Fixin 1er Clos Napoleon
1.83 hectares – just like Romanee-Conti! – the smallest 1er of Fixin. Some parts are very hard to replant at the top, its necessary to break up the hard rock to make a hole. Lower down there is some thicker clay. It was called Au Chezeaux, Pierre-Emmanuel’s grandfather bought it in 1965 and replanted. Noisot – known for the park above Fixin previously owned it.
Like all here, the colour is modest. Fresh, red fruit, a more herbal. Wide, fresh, complex, very engaging wine with sweet dark fruit. Lovely, lovely wine. “The wine will last 10 years with its freshness, longer if you like mushrooms and wood…”
2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Meivelle
Old french means middle of the village. Not deep soil, fine soil some clay with stones.
Ohh – that’s a lovely, beautiful fruit note. Fine, lovely layered, fresh delivery, with a long line of flavour. Fine wine.
Smallest production, only 4 barrels – in 12 there was none – okay, maybe 100 litres. Always very small berries.
There’s a depth and texture to the beautiful fruit – gorgeous. A little more texture to the tannin, but it’s a textural drag, a slight adhesion, rather than grain. Super finish here – really involving. Last drops with a fine floral aspect…
2012 Chambertin Clos de Bèze
From 2 parcels, one near the parking which is the oldest, and a smaller young vine (2002) section. Their total is about 0.5 ha.
A little tightness. But a fine flashes of pure top notes and a lovely widening base. Rather silky, concentrated entry – very slowly growing a fine tannin texture. Wide, engaging, lots of complexity. Clearly a wine to wait for – drink the Clos Prieur and Hervelets, even the Fixin before. But this will repay your patience. Super length, very mineral. Excellent and for the patient.