Tasted in Meursault with Gaël, 09 March 2016.
15 rue Martray
Tel: +33 3 80 21 20 13
Today we tasted in the tasting room (rather than the cellar) that looks out onto their ‘garden’ – it’s a 5 hectare clos of villages-rated Meursault. Gaël, the cellar-master here was our host today, he first came for harvest in 1995, and each year since, he has ‘done a little more in the cellar.’
There’s 25% new oak in the Meursault Chevalier, sold only in US. St.Romain and Bourgogne see some new oak – to ‘wash the barrels’ for the next years Meursaults. Thierry’s father used to loan new barrels to his neighbours and take them back after 1 year for his own wines, so the excess of oak flavour had been used up.
All the domaine’s half-bottles are in screwcap. There is also some screwcapped Meursault – currently sold only in the UK.
2013 Bourgogne Blanc
From grapes of the communes of Meursault, Puligny and a little northern Macon – 5% new oak. Sealed in screwcap.
Round, yellow fruited, some sweetness and a faint oak note. A little savoury, then fine and direct with good mouth-watering flavour, mineral. A good finish.
Only 25hl/ha this vintage, a lot of old vines included – again from screwcap.
Grapefruit and peach on the nose. A nice texture, with a mineral impression – a broad finishing flavour too – and of good length.
2013 Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru
More white soil, and more clay here.
A faint biscuity reduction on the nose. Large in the mouth with more structure, and good length too. Faintly spiced, the nose slowly opens. A small note of cream and some salinity in the finish. This gets better and better in the glass – super.
2013 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Chalumeaux
1.5 hectares worth. More limestone here, less clay, it’s easy to walk in the vines after rain.
Here is a fine fresh yellow fruit – very attractive. A growing weight of flavour. Big in the mid-palate too. Super dry-extract in the long finish. Impressive stuff.
2014 Meursault Les Chevalières
US only, with 25% new oak.
Freshness of aroma, not particularly oaky – another wine with some fresh peach notes. Round, softly textured, a nice minerality too. Only at the very end of the palate and into the finish is a hint of cream. Nice mineral wine. Tasty too.
2011 Meursault 1er Les Charmes
A nice white vintage, picked early – 28 August.
Smells a hint of pyrazine. Actually a really heavily pyrazine, almost peaunt. But the wine has a lovely shape and weight in the mouth. Long finishing. Tasted great in the finish, a hint saline. I really love this finish – clearly the best part.
No new oak. 5-6 year old barrels. The grapes coming from the communes of Volnay and Puligny plus some declassified maranges – also some other young vines.
Bright, open, fine pinot fruit aromatic. Wide, nicely textured and fresh, growing flavour dimension. Faintly padded, no sharp edges, very tasty wine – bravo. Modest colour, but not a modest wine.
Top of the hill, east facing, almost the last to be harvested each year.
Here is a very fine aroma – lovely fresh red fruit. Bigger in the mouth, a hint more texture from tannin, round, cherry fruit, lovely.
2014 Blagny 1er La Piece Sous le Bois
In bottle since November.
A more complex nose. Really lovely complexity in the mouth, red fruits, spice, modest structure and a fine finish. The nose is merely ‘okay’ today, but the the palate is super!