Tasted in Marsannay with Philippe Huguenot, 3rd February 2015.
Domaine Huguenot Père et Fils
7 Ruelle du Carron
Tel: +33 3 80 52 11 56+33 3 80 52 11 56
There are not too many 23 hectare Côte de Nuits domaines that I’ve never heard of (I assume) but here is one – and that’s because for generations they didn’t commercialise their own wine – except to the négoce. And there have been many generations – they count 10 since the French Revolution. Most of their vines are in Marsannay with 6 hectares in Fixin, 4 in Gevrey-Chambertin etcetera.
Philippe’s parents, Jean-Louis et Eliane, took on the domaine in 1968, Philippe finally taking the reins in 1994 and his wife, Valerie, joining in 2001. In 2007 half of the vineyard area was converted, on a test basis, to organic farming. In 2010, the whole domaine began conversion – 2013 is their first vintage certified as organic (bio ecocet). Philippe says he is also interested in Biodynamics as a concept.
The cuverie uses large concrete fermenters plus big stainless-steel tanks too. The whites are fermented in barrel including some larger 500 and 600 litre demi-muids. Philippe says he’s Looking to keep some of the finer lees, and in colder vintages maybe with a little batonnage too. The whites are at the shorter end of the scale, but wines see 8-18 months elevages depending on the particular cru.
Often modest and not the most concentrated, but sometimes good wines from a domaine that is very much looking to move up the quality ladder. Prices are modest for now – I’m hoping for good things from this domaine in the future…
2013 Marsannay blanc
Bottled. Half a harvest in 2013 due to coulure, only 25 hl/ha – 1.5 hectares in 3 separate parcels.
A fresh wide nose with a little oak at the core, actually a little reduction too. Wide, lithe a hint rich but with lots of growing intensity and some freshness too. Very perfumed in the finish, almost a little onion skin flavour impression.
2013 Fixin Blanc
A little more depth, faint savoury notes but nice and fresh. Full of complexity and width. A little richness but more energy. I love the energy here – also finishing on a very perfumed note.
From multiple parcels, the largest part in Petits Puits mainly on limestone, about 4 hectares of vines represented here.
Some depth of mineral notes, and darker-red fruit. Lithe, a little herby but intense and with good supporting fruit. Rather intense…
2012 Marsannay Echezots
Similarly deep and dark with some minerals. More ripe fruit, lots of energy and again plenty of energy. Quite some mineral impression again, big in the finish, less herbal, quite perfumed. Good stuff.
2012 Marsannay La Montagne
White oolite with a bit more friable soil.
Again a similar nose, some riper fruit though. Here is a lovely flavour profile, intense but with some modest richness. A very good line of finishing flavour again, some perfume again but on a lower level.
2012 Marsannay Les Champs Perdrix
Another type of soil – Premeaux limestone. ‘Almost a blend of the last two types of wine’
Deep, a little narrower perhaps, but a prettier nose. Rounder but full of freshness and energy. The fruit is nicely ripe and has very good concentration. A faint dryness to the tannin but it has good texture. Plenty of length here. The best so far!
2012 Fixin Petits Crais
A good weight of aroma with very good depth and a little herb action above. Round, concentrated, some modest tannin. Very well-balanced and with lots of concentration. Bigger wine and very tasty with a crunch of tannin by the mid-palate.
2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Crais
2 hectares of vines here.
Actually still a similar nose to the last but nice enough. Wide, and intense. Good flavour, and some modest structure showing too. Good length, actually fine length…