Geantet-Pansiot – 2013


DSC06080Tasted in Gevrey-Chambertin with Emilie Geantet on 3rd February 2015.

Domaine Geantet Pansiot
Route Nationale
21220 Gevrey-Chambertin
Tel: +33 3 80 34 32 37

This domaine was founded in 1954 when Edmond Geantet married Bernadette Pansiot – they began their married life with 3 hectares of vines. Son Vincent joined the domaine in 1977 when there was 7 hectares. Vincent’s son, Fabien joined in 2006 when the domaine was already 13 hectare. His sister Emilie is also producing wines under a negociant label – Emilia Geantet – since 2007. With these négoce grapes included, they now vinify the equivalent of 20 hectares. Vincent is still vinifying at the domaine with Fabien now responsible for the vines – of-course with ploughing, no herbicides and no insecticides.

All their online info quotes their old address in Rue de Paris in Gevrey, but apparently they sold that to two partners – an Englishman and a Chinese man, who are clearly very busy in there, but have removed all signs and door bells – maybe they get in through a tunnel!

Returning to Geantet-Pansiot – they 100% destemmed grapes are sorted on more than one triage table, and eventually ‘berry by berry’ which they refer to as their ‘caviar’. Those berries have a long, 10 day, 10°C cool maceration, hopefully with minimum crushing, followed by warming to start the fermentation. The concrete tanks are punched down and pumped over once a day Emilie say it was twice a day when she began! The solids see a light pressing with the juice left to settle for a week. The wines see about 13-14 month elevage without racking in 30%-40% new wood – regardless whether Bourgogne Rouge or Charmes-Chambertin though now they also use some 600 litre barrels – so it’s a little harder to calculate! There’s no racking before assembling for bottling, but there is a light filtration. More than half of the production is villages-level Gevrey-Chambertin.

Historically I’ve not fully enjoyed the wines from this domaine, despite fine aromas, because I found them just a little soft – missing a little rigour if you like. One or two at the Gevrey syndicat tastings had seemed promising though, so…

Well, these wines were certainly very, very different to my recollections!

The wines…

Deep colours here – very deep, almost impossible to see through in a cellar. I began by being impressed, given that we were tasting modest appellations, but they became relatively homogenous in style, almost boring with their extreme black confiture fruit – some suggesting volatility. I’m a little bemused because despite my positive notes, I walked out of the tasting thinking – ‘not my really style…’

2013 Bourgogne Pinot Fin
Bottled in November.
Needs a bit of swirling, but this has a very impressive deep, crystalline, dark fruit – almost suggesting a little volatility. Round, concentrated, a little soft but packed with flavour and a comforting plush texture. Excellent. Another wine with a strong perfumed component.

2013 Marsannay Champs Perdrix
A deeper, textured nose, almost black fruits in the mix with reds. Cool fruit, fine texture – rather silky and nicely structured – this is beautifully proportioned and presented. The last notes are again very perfumed. Just a super wine.

2013 Gevrey-Chambertin Le Jeunes Rois
Super-deep colour. Dark deep, almost a little volatile but I have to say ‘almost’ brilliant. Again, fresh, cool fruit with real depth of flavour, but with almost a volatile impression again. Much more intense and persistent length though.

Gevrey-Chambertin Vielles-Vignes
An assembly of many, many parcels.mabout 80 years old.
Deep but high-toned and with a rather floral impression that grows and grows. Nice and fresh again, cool fruit but with a flavour that grows and grows. No hint of volatility here. Very nice

2013 Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs
Massive colour again. Deep and with super concentration. Fresh, and more intense – a little more direct and with some minerality in the mid-palate – wide finishing with some perfume again.

2013 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Combe aux Moines
Deep and concentrated again, higher notes above – another wine that needs a bit of swirling and nosing before you see the deep violet notes. Ouf! This is wine. Concentrated, perfectly textured, more minerality and complexity. Wow – again finishing with a strong mouth perfume.

2013 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Poissenots
Again super-deep, almost saturated colour. A tighter nose, a little mineral at the base too. Again a fine texture and with mouth-watering intensity. A mineral intensity as you slide down the finish. Super.

2013 Clos de Vougeot
Negoce grapes.
Deep but also lots of high, almost mineral tones. Super-silky, intense and super-complex some saline an mineral notes – really impressive – mouth-watering, lingering flavour. In the context of this wines, really brilliant. Easily the longest finishing. So far…

2013 Charmes-Chambertin
A deep and concentrated aroma – I think stewed is the word I’m looking for. Big in the mouth but not fat, some minerality but also lots of cushioned dark red fruit, again faintly salted. Good long finish here, even after brilliant Clos de Vougeot.

2013 Chambertin
Wider and still with some freshness, and soon a very silky floral aromatic above. Much more direct and mineral, full of energy some salt, lots of intensity. Really wide in the finish with a geléed dark fruit.

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