Tasted in Gevrey-Chambertin with Bernard Bouvier, 19 April 2023.
Domaine René Bouvier
Chemin de Saule Brochon
21220 Gevrey-Chambertin
Tel: +33 3 80 52 21 37
www.renebouvier.com
More reports with Domaine René Bouvier
Bernard on 2021:
“A part of the 2021 production has been bottled – but not everything. We make quite a lot of white here but the yield was less than one-third that of a normal vintage – it wasn’t just the frost, there was mildew and oidium too that took their share – but they were secondary to the frost. We waited for proper maturity, it was 1 month later harvesting than in 2020 but I find that the wines are ripe and fresh. ”
The wines…
You need to be a fan of the rose-infused aromas and flavours of the stems but this approach has been very well navigated by Bernard in 2021. I see lots of highly recommended wines, quasi-great wines, for their labels.
We start with whites. Lots of 600-litre barrels are used to elevage the whites here. Bernard is still testing DIAM for both colours.
2021 Bourgogne Aligoté Vieilles-Vignes
Not much yield so all was done without sulfur, half Morey half Marsannay (Couchey) fruit
Hmm, that’s an airy and pretty width of fruit aroma. Incisive, vibrant. Very attractive wine!
2021 Marsannay Blanc Le Clos
On white marl – 3 hectares – ‘a proper white terroir.’ Fermentation in barrels of 600l with a small amount of sulfur.
Broader, more generous aromas, some ripeness of fruit but not too forward. Hmm, I like the shape of this – sinuous, saline and perfumed.
2021 Marsannay Blanc Les Longeroies
Vines from Bernard’s father who is now retired. A bit more clay here vs the marne-blanche of the last
Deeper, still wide aromas. Still a mouthful of energetic wine – not sinuous but there’s a broader, fresher, mouthwatering energy. Faintly oaked – also super but very different. I love the finish here.
Here on limestone.
There’s a perfume here – floral. More incisive and direct -I didn’t really have a favourite between the two previous styles but here I do! Excellent, indeed for Marsannay, great wine.
Les Reds:
The reds usually have a minimum of 60% whole clusters with just a little sulfur early on in their elevage.
From the Côte Dijonaise
Perfumed, roses, very attractive wine. Good scale, texture and acidity – fine perfume for the label that’s a great Bourgogne.
2021 Marsannay En Ouzeloy
A deeper nose, still with attractive stem aromatics but here with a bit more power – and herb too. Broad, mouth-filling – yes a hint more wc austerity but there’s a lot more wine in here too – this will be super in 2-3 years.
More clay here, the vines near the Château of Marsannay
Lots of breadth to this aroma, less impact, still a hint of austerity is my first impression. More direct, fluid and with clarity of flavour – chalky tannin – depth of flavour – keep 5 years for a great Marsannay with a big finish too.
2021 Marsannay Longeroies Vieilles-Vignes
About 70-year-old vines in the bottom of Longeroies with deeper soil and some clay.
Extra perfume – super! A vibrant width of flavour and with energy. There’s no austerity other than youth – broad, deliciously finishing wine.
A freshness and width of aroma – wild roses. Hmm – such an explosion of energy and flavour – which then bursts over the palate in the finish – the longer you keep the better it will be, but I think it’s a great Marsannay..
2021 Fixin Crais de Chaine
“Harvest ripe and don’t try to extract and you will be fine here – extract and it’s too much!”
A lighter colour, starting a little reductive – the first red tasted from tank – becoming redder-fruited and cleaner with air. Hmm, here‘s a roundness and depth of flavour that belies the colour. Super!
2021 Gevrey-Chambertin
No Justice or Jeunes Rois – they were blended due to low volume.
Plenty of colour. Another step up in perfumed aromatic sophistication. More mineral and direct in style, dark-fruited, melting and very delicious but be more patient with this one. Persistent flavour here. A beauty!
90-year-old vines. The largest part in Creots.
More direct, super perfume with a faint austerity. A more incisive, intense wine. There’s a little young structure but there’s also a fine, clean, finish too. More than excellent wine!
2021 Charmes-Chambertin
From above Mazoyères, opposite Latricières. Over 60-year-old vines, organic for over 25 years.
Not a large nose but a super elegance of picture-perfect perfume. Supple, silky and there’s even a little minerality – the finish is extra long and the oak perhaps adds a faint dreaminess – otherwise it’s invisible. Really super Charmes!