Tasted in Meursault with Anne Morey, 18 April 2023.
Domaine Anne et Pierre Morey
13 Rue Pierre Mouchoux
21190 Meursault
Tel: +33 3 80 21 21 03
www.morey-meursault.fr
More reports with Anne et Pierre Morey, Morey-Blanc.
Anne’s son is here at the domaine now – 2021 was his first full vintage at the family domaine.
Anne Morey on 2021:
“If we count the aligoté – which was the only parcel that was ‘normal volume’ we have an average of 30 hl/ha – without the aligoté it was more like 20 – actually 10-20 hl/ha – the worst was 11 hl/ha where some snow rested on the buds. It was probably good that the volume was low as it allowed maturity despite a May that had rain almost every. They are wines that breathe – they are airy but not light – they are already very attractive but I think they will age too. They are not powerful but they have a lovely personality – I like them. Supplesse is the word that I like to describe the wines; I find them generous but not too much – light but not too much – there is nothing lacking so you could say balanced. We can’t compare these with the exuberance of recent warm vintages – ‘balance’ – it’s different every year.
In reality, all the wines are bottled but I’m keeping them back and won’t start commercialising before the harvest of this year – we are still delivering the 2020s right now. The last wines to be bottled were done only a couple of weeks ago.”
Anne Morey on 2022:
“2022 quantity and quality – I’d sign up to that every year – give me the paper!”
The wines…
Such high quality. For the second year since she had covid, Anne doesn’t notice the oxidation that can creep in with half-full bottles of Coravined wines – but those that were freshly opened (Coravined) were absolutely singing – some great wines here!
2021 Monthelie
Forward – full. There is plenty of comforting red fruit ripeness here. Broad, fine texture – here is plenty of concentration. The finish has both energy and a fine complexity – broad but generous – delicious finishing too.
2021 Morey-Blanc, Volnay 1er Taillepieds
Made since 2018 and have the same quantity as usual…
A much more direct and aromatic nose – almost tending to volatile. Beautifully silky and with plenty of concentration too – like the Monthelie, the finish is really impressive – broad and extra complex – extra delicious finishing too – that’s a properly great finish!
The whites:
2021 Bourgogne Aligoté
Bottled around the harvest last year. A normal volume but this is a later maturing vine…
An aromatic that’s both forward and open – slightly volatile – but just like the previous wines with Coravin. Fine shape in the mouth – structured but also silken – the finish is another good one – really a fine finish again.
Fresh (Coravined) Bottles:
Directly fine – great aromatic shape and invitation – almost a little Meursault-style aromatic. Hmm – that’s vibrant and delicious – that’s a great St.Romain – with a display of finishing fireworks…
2021 Meursault Tessons
A more compact nose to start – yet silky – only slowly growing with a little extra interest – carafe – then a very fine flower note. I love the shape of this – much more mineral and growing again a super direct finish that’s mineral and complex – today you should carafe but the detail here is beautiful.
Also not yet fully open but there’s more width in the bass-line here and slowly, slowly, the top notes start to suggest themselves, then announce themselves – more floral again. A fine shape – growing with impressive intensity – a faint reduction too – that’s a simply super wine – sinuous, lithe muscle – great Perrières…