Boisset Jean-Claude – 2015

Update 21.12.2016(20.12.2016)billn

Tasted in Nuits St.Georges with Grégory Patriat, 13 December 2016.

Jean-Claude Boisset
5 Quai Dumorey
21700 Nuits St.Georges
Tel: +33 3 80 62 61 61

Grégory on 2016:
“2016 – the year of the excesses. An excess of rain – 500mm between January and April normally its 700mm in the whole year. Then was too dry in August – some vineyards were actually suffering – but better than the other way around! Treatments were every 5-7 days in the vineyards for those in organic, it was one of the most difficult vintages. Actually our purchases brought a similar volume to 2015, but that was due to incursions into Maranges and Chalonnaise. Difficult to comment on the wines today, but they will be concentrated for sure.”

Grégory on 2015:
“2015 is a spectacular vintage for the reds – big and concentrated it reminds me of 2009. Concentration, big ripeness, it’s a serious vintage. It’s a more red wine vintage but because of that I loved the challenge of the whites. For the whites, using 450 litre barrels was even more efficient than usual – they have really helped in preserving the freshness. Batonnage was stopped 10 years ago. I love the reds, but I’m proud of my whites…”

The wines…

A strong set of wines here, whites included. I have a special prize, though, for the Chorey-lès-Beaune Les Beaumonts – given its quality, it is maybe one of the greatest value wines of the whole vintage!

2015 Bourgogne Aligoté La Corvées au Moines
From the bottom of the Puligny slope. Will have 17 months of aging, so a March or April bottling. 25 hl/ha harvested about 12.8°. There’s a second aligoté from Chorey which wont be blended with this.
A deep, golden nose, a suggestion of tarte-tatin. Big, round, muscular and mineral. Not a simple wine for glugging, this is quite intellectual and long. There is a certain austerity here, but from an intellectual sense. Not simply, but bravo!

2015 Hautes Côtes de Beaune
Bio, in bottle. An ecocert winery so can also have certification. From above la rochepot.
A reduction, ‘noble,’ wide and fresh lemon yellow. Wide, nice texture, fresh and mineral, serious but just a little giving vs the aligote, faint herb in the finish – very serious, indeed impressive…

The rest, minimum 2 winters in the cellar – ‘Maybe I’m too dogmatic!’

2015 Marsannay
Racked last week, now 3 months in stainless-steel before bottling.
Bright, almost quince, but fresh. Also a lovely minerality here – this is as good a Marsannay Blanc as I’ve ever tasted – this has beautiful texture, a little fat to the silk, but energy and gorgeous detail – bravo!
2015 Côtes de Nuits Villages Creux de Sobron
Corgoloin, near the cemetery, close to the forest. This racked in November
Fresh, saline, I’d guess Chablis from the nose! Fresh, mineral, a suggestion of reduction, beautiful texture and freshness – bravo again – great wine! Magical finish…

2015 St.Aubin 1er Sur Gamay
Racked 1 month ago
A deep nose with a perfect agrume reduction. Fresh, mouth-filling volume, very silky again, sufficient minerality that not for one second will you question the acidity, long, long super wine.

2015 St.Aubin 1er En Remilly
Racked last week
A wider freshness of aroma, less focus so far. More mineral, a little less volume, more complexity, more melting flavour. The last is currently more complete, this has finer parts that still need to come together – I’d put my money on this, though!

2015 Santenay 1er Passetemps
A broad, bright panorama of a nose – ‘Never expect minerality or tension here, it’s the Meursault Charmes of Santenay!‘ Wide silky, almost a Meursault impression on the palate! Richness but freshness and complexity too. Super wine!

2015 Meursault Le Limozin
90-95 years old vines, planted north south.
A good width of aroma. Very faint reduction. Elegant, mouth-watering flavour, really beautifully mouth-watering flavour with a hint of tannin too. This is simply excellent. Bravo…

2015 Beaune 1er Vignes Franches
A big nose, wide and fresh. A little gas, but fresh, very mineral, but with an accommodating sweetness of melting flavour. This will test you blind, a little oak in the finishing flavours, but this has outstanding persistence and again possibly a hint of tannin in the finish.

Les Rouges…

2015 Maranges 1er Fussières
Harvested by Boisset. 30-35 hl/ha, I’m less dogmatic for the reds, so this is bottled!
A very deep and interesting nose, a mineral vibration too. Large-scaled, fresh, but with power and weight of good flavour. Certainly there is ripeness but there’s dark fruit and with good energy too. A width of modest tannin in the finish and very slowly finishing. Great wine for roughly the price of bourgogne!
2015 Ladoix 1er Les Hautes Murottes
Wide, fresh dark spicy fruit – this is very attractive. In the mouth there’s a depth of flavour that hints that Corton is only 30 metres away. Wide and very long. A super wine which has also an elegance despite its obvious presence. Only 12.6° too. Again bravo!

2015 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Murots
Already in bottle, 50% whole cluster.
A really big nose, some rose-petal whole cluster impression. Nice volume, some cushioning, elegance, complexity – almost suggests Chambolle, but really for me less definite focus than previous wine – a wine of pleasure for sure though.

2015 Nuits St.Georges Les Charbonnières
Vines next to the Clos des Grands Vignes 1er monopole of Comte Liger-Belair, 50% whole cluster again. Only one barrel from 1.2 ha in 2016…
A very dark but actually quite thrilling nose – wc but on fine structure. Plenty of action in the mouth, complexity, energy, a little tannin, and a fine length of flavour. Just a really super wine, de garde!

2015 Pommard
A blend of two vines, Brescule close to Charmottes and Combottes near La Vache at the top of the village.
Deep, dark fruit of fine freshness. Fine, fresh, and elegant Pommard that’s wide and mouth-watering with flavour. A beautiful wine.

2015 Chorey-lès-Beaune Les Beaumonts
Planted in 1902 and racked last week!
Deeper colour. A fresh nose but with a lot of depth. Fresh in the mouth too – elegant, and energetic, complex. You would never guess the appellation, you wouLd be guessing a 1er from somewhere… bravo!

2015 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Peuillets
A dark fresh and exciting nose – a real invitation to drink. Hmm, lithe, fresh, changing flavour, a certain fresh phenolic that’s attractive and the flavour is very long. Just a lovely, lively wine, no question!

2015 Chambolle-Musigny
Combination of 3 lieu-dits from around the village. 50% whole cluster.
Deep and dark like all these wines, but here with a little more fat and weight. Depth of flavour with very fine packaging. A wine of substance, and slowly unfolding waves of very pretty flavour. A wine that’s deeper than classic, but beautifully drinkable whilst serious too. Yum! The finish a little fresher and wide.

2015 Pommard 1er Les Arvelets
Hmm, this is a really pretty nose, it’s fresh, a little coffee oak today but silky and very inviting, slowly showing a little floral component. All destemmed. Very fine tannin, almost a minerality and line of flavour. Tannin in the finish, but nothing scary. A beautiful line of fine flavour here. Simply a beauty!
2015 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Charmes
50% while cluster.
Very deep colour. Deep, vibrant, mineral, rather than a broad brush wc impression, here are points of focus and clarity – lovely. Good volume in the mouth, a halo of tannin, very faintly drying, but with fine grain. Long in the finish, with mouth-watering, melting flavour. Just a beauty and one to wait for! Bravo!

2015 Clos de la Roche
Ooh, this has a beautiful high-toned complexity, floral, fruit and a little barrel note – 100% new oak. Supple, slowly growing, melting, complexity. Wide and considered, not a wine of overt energy but one that just keeps adding and changing its flavours. Super.

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