Tasted in Meursault with Vincent Boyer, 10 June 2024.
Domaine Boyer-Martenot
17, place de l’Europe
21190 Meursault
Tel: +33 3 80 21 26 25
www.boyer-martenot.com
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More reports with Domaine Boyer-Martenot
Vincent on 2022:
“Of course there’s a comparison to 2021 where we lost more than 40% – in fact, 80% in the 1er crus. I’m very very happy with 2022 – despite a harvest that started 27th August and that was 20% down on allowed yields! We didn’t make the yield everywhere, but we still have some volume and quality I think – we have good balance and acidity, it’s a fresh vintage.”
The wines…
Another year, another great range – a domaine that’s inexplicably ‘under the radar’ vs many of its neighbours !!
Bottling is all natural cork. Vincent changed suppliers about 2017 after one cuvée suffered about 5% corked bottles – fortunately, it was only one cuvée. All of today’s corks are individually tested for TCA and are of 25mm width vs the standard 24mm. ‘Many small things make the difference. I think Stelvin is good but it’s not sexy !!’
2022 Bourgogne Aligoté
From concrete egg but the wine had a year in older oak barrels beforehand. Made like that here since the 2017 vintage. ‘I don’t want to lose all the richness but I want the extra tension.’
Lots of width and energy. Hmm, so juicy, even a little zesty, really vibrant grapefruit finishing. Thats a very energetic wine and I love it…
2019 is the first vintage with a Côte d’Or label. 4 parcels of Meursault commune vines, one near Puligny plus Coutures, Sous la Velle and Malpoirier
The nose starts less forward but still wide. Hmm, more depth here, also vibrant – really wide. Slowly, mouth-filling – I love it more!!
Vines planted by the grandfather, this cuvée usually with 4 lieu dits north to south – but currently from 6 vineyards including Charrons and Chaumes as the yields for those haven’t recently filled an egg.
Hmm – a super nose, faintly spiced perfume – a great nose. Proper Meursault, faintly saline – a great villages…
Planted in 24, 1924…
Again, beautifully perfumed and deep, it’s classic Meursault. Lovely energy again, more mineral width and just so moreishly juicy. An extra line in the finish – a great finish for a villages and potentially a great villages…
2022 Meursault Les Tillets
Wide, more open and floral, almost acacia. So mouth-filling so fluid and energetic. A beauty but for keeping 3-4 years before attacking.
A more sherbety energy – open and inviting – another top nose. Extra width, extra depth to this flavour too – slowly fading. A top wine !!
2022 Puligny-Montrachet Le Reuchaux
Les Reuchaux near Charmes – a single parcel.
A deeper vibrancy, almost mineral agrumes. In the mouth too but this really opens out much more than the last wines, faintly drying chalky texture in the finish. Beautiful wine despite the reduction…
2022 Meursault 1er Les Charmes
Three parcels, one near Genevrières, one in the middle near Puligny and a last next to Limozin
A mineral depth with softer fruit and flowers – lovely and changing perfume. Extra vibrant, more structural, really vibrant in the finish too – really complex. Another I love !!
2022 Meursault 1er Genevrières
Large scale with more floral aromatics – very easy and elegant perfume. A wine that melts gorgeously over the palate – long-lasting, gorgeous wine.
Above the quarry towards Puligny – lots of active limestone here. Again from an egg.
Really perfumed, almost some barrel accent too – another beauty. Electric energy, beautiful long, direct finishing – bravo…
2022 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Caillerets
On the Meursault side of the vineyard, across from the large tree. Vincent’s grandmother bought this in the 1980s, 1987 the first vintage.
Larger and deeper yet still very elegant aromatics. Large scale in the mouth but with a small textural cushion – a wine that’s distinguished by its flavour energy. Less direct than the Perrières today but a wine of width that’s just as long – it fades oh-so-slowly…