Michel Gros – 2022

20.10.2024billn4 min read

Pierre Gros 2024 Domaine Michel GrosTasted in Vosne-Romanée with Pierre Gros, 08 July 2024.

Domaine Michel Gros
7 Rue des Communes
21700 Vosne-Romanée
Tel: +33 3 80 61 04 69
www.domaine-michel-gros.com
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Pierre on 2024:
“Right now the Hautes Côtes are quite bad – I’ve lost lost as much as 60% to mildew in the last 10-14 days. It’s better in the Côtes but still there are 10-20% losses – and it’s not over yet – we need dry weather but that’s not the forecast that we have…”

Pierre on 2022:
“We always bottle late – the wines were racked and blended in April and I’m planning the bottling from the end of August – CO2 and SO2 are already adjusted. We have very classic alcohols in this vintage – the wines of the Hautes Côtes are all around 12.5% the others might be a little over 13 but not by much. In 22 you have the right maturity – I do like 2020 but it was so concentrated that it’s a vintage apart but it’s a great compromise between that and the lighter vintages like 2017 – and we had some quantity too !”

The wines…

An outstanding range of 2022s – just a few aromatically tight noses denying a large handful of great wines today. The new wines for 2022 are not too shabby either 🙂

2022 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits
That’s got a very attractive and pure red fruit aromatic – it’s really inviting. Hmm, this melts over the palate, with good width and growing intensity to the flavour – a metallic, mineral, direct finishing flavour, long and lip-smacking. That’s a really excellent Bourgogne…

2022 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Au VallonsTop wine
Direct, also a lovely purity to the dark-red fruit but here with a more stony – cherry-stone – style to the aromas. More open and fluid style – juicy, some structure – you should maybe wait a year or two – but that’s a great villages. Bravo !!
2022 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Fontaine Saint MartinTop wine
The domaine’s 7 ha monopole – 4 ha of pinot, 3 of chardonnay.
Wider, more delicate and floral aromatic – lovely purity again. Good scale with overt energy – the tannin just a hint more visible and beautifully mixed with fruit and flower flavours. Extra intensity in the finish – great again but keep it 2+ years !!

2022 Nuits St.Georges
From 4 Vosne-side parcels three are down-slope plus a higher one
Not a super width of aroma but clearly a more profound depth of slightly cushioned fruit… Beautiful clarity of fruit in the mouth again but with the extra depth of the nose. A faint rub of grainless tannin. That’s excellent again – simply a delicious wine !!

2022 Nuits St.Georges Les Chaillots
Just under 1er Poirets, the name relates to the flints in the soil – very rare in the côtes.
A more airy width of faintly almond inflected red fred fruit. Extra volume in the mouth with a small cushion to its texture but at the same time so mouth-watering that it’s almost juicy. An extra grain to the ripe tannin and extra intensity too – sappy – hold for 3-5 years but again absolutely delicious..

2022 Vosne-Romanée
From three parcels; a large part from Reas. Rivière is tiny and a bit more from Colombière – about 1 hectare.
A more elegant, slightly smaller, nose than most of the previous – but attractive and inviting. Extra scale and very fluid – this is wonderful in the mouth – so juicy and complex with fine energy – it’s just a nose short of being a great wine today – but completely delicious – so large scaled in the finish too!!

2022 Chambolle-Musigny
Three parcels at the bottom of the slope plus Argillieres next to Musigny but north facing.
Pure, elegant, airy but still a small structural suggestion too. Wide and open – clarity to this flavour – a little more mineral and with a growing, mouth-watering intensity. Extra long, modestly mineral and for keeping 3 years ! Lovely…

2022 Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Brûlées
Just across the road from their (Veroilles) Richebourg – Meo and Frantin above.
Beautiful airy aromas – that’s an ultra-inviting nose !! Ultra fluid, gorgeously flavoured – layered, wide flavours, the finish a little more austere and stony – very slowly fading – a great start and still excellently finishing !!

2022 Vosne-Romanée 1er Clos des Réas
A monopoly since 1830, bought by the family in 1860.
A smaller nose but more classically spiced Vosne aroma. Like the last a volume and fluidity of flavour – but more obviously concentrated too. Concentrated in the finish too – holding well and again with a stony cherry-stone style. Another wine that’s only a nose short of great today – what a wine!

2022 Clos de Vougeot
From Grand Maupertuis – a single parcel of 0.2 ha – maximum 3 barrels…
A smoky character to this fruity nose. Vibrant, structured – but nothing hard – I love this – such a ball of energy with fine definition to the flavours – yes! Very faintly smoky in the finishing flavours too – the barrels I expect. Super CV and what a finish too – so demonstrative !!

2022 Echézeaux
It’s the first vintage for this and Richebourg – this from Les Loachausses which will be written on the label too. ‘I was surprised by how quickly this came to ripen so it’s the only wine that was 14°’ – it’s pH is higher too as there’s potassium in the soil as was part of the fertilising regime of GF&S
A smokiness on the nose again – extra round dark fruit. In the mouth, the roundness of the nose – and then a strong and sustained width of finishing flavour – this holds with great, impressive width – and it’s delicious!

2022 Richebourg
Mostly replanted in the 1990s at the top and another part lower down which was done in the 1980s.
Another faintly smoky nose – less open than the Echézeaux today – but still, of course, an invitation. Larger scale – structure like the CV but with more of everything – flavour energy and an ultra-tiny grain of tannin then a fresh width of flavour that’s every bit as sustained as the the Echézeaux but more open and with extra clarity. Yes – Richebourg !!

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