Tasted in La Chapelle-Vaupelteigne with Grégory & Delphine Viennois, 20 July 2023.
Maison de la Chapelle
Delphine et Grégory Viennois
89800 La Chapelle-Vaupelteigne
www.vins-maisondelachapelle.fr
More reports with Maison de la Chapelle
Grégory on the recent vintages:
“We had low volumes in 2020-2021 but a good volume in 2022. There were only 2 wines from Irancy in 2021 as the volume was so low – only 10 hl/ha on average… Disastrous in terms of quantity but a super expression of pinot noir… about 12.5° natural. Since I left work at Laroche I’m still doing some consulting – I never stopped during the last 15 years, I started in Bordeaux – but my focus is now here. 2020 was also a first cuvée of aligoté and there will be a Chablis too. We aim to remain a boutique source of wine – we won’t be chasing volume. For us it’s important to keep the personal service.”
The wines…
Stunning 2022s – knocked right out of the park !!
2021 Aligoté
Bottled in the April after the harvest and elevaged without wood – a blend of plateau and hillside vines here, from Chitry.
A freshness of aroma – an almost soapy clean nose. Hmm – now that has a beautifully chiselled and direct start – spreading out over the palate with cool mineral flavours. A little saline and showing plenty of citrus energy – almost lime. Mega-impressive if not yet quite delicious – there is some rigour but it’s like citrus juice – you wince but you have go back again. Wait 2-3 years.
A little more ‘plateau’ vines in this vintage – ‘it’s the perfect balance between 2021 and 2020’
A slightly rounder, more generous nose – faintly accented by the floral notes too. The citrus is a little more yellow than for the 21. More generous in the mouth too – lovely silky texture and a couple of mm of cushion – this is already more delicious. The finish is zesty and just a hint sweeter than the 21 today – this is more than excellent and with a faint zest on the tongue.
First vintage – ‘we were lucky to start with this vintage.’ Old vines from the plateau of Prehy next to the houses – the rest from Chichée near Vaucoupins. Bottled in May.
Broad, attractive, a little floral with boiled sweets – pear drops. Hmm, direct, a fine element of strict but also complex with fine energy – broad, mineral, iodine, faint citrus zest – top villages!
Les Irancy:
2021 Irancy
Bottled in November. No sulfur during elevage just a little before the bottling.
Plenty of colour. That’s high-toned and forward – very perfumed, very floral – plenty of whole clusters shining through in the mix but still great perfume. A sizzle of acidity on the tongue then melting across the palate. Vibrant middle and finishing flavour. The finish red-fruited of course.
2021 Irancy Bâtardes
Light soil – Marne and limestone – ‘a bit like Blanchots – a magnificent parcel.’
Just a little less colour. A little less forward than the previous but still a forward perfume – very floral and the perfume of roses again – more whole cluster here. More focus, more introspection, framed with a fine grain of tannin – broad and more complex finishing. That’s a super wine.
Assembled in tank but not yet bottled, not yet sulfured either.
Tons of colour but only between 12.9 and 13.1° – two parcels assembled. Concentrated, hedonistic – a cushioned depth – what an invitation. Beautiful acid entry – fine, pure, complex – almost fluid. A small wave of grainless tannin comes with an extra intensity before fading. That’s a great Irancy!
Plain south-facing, with a steep 45°, of slope. Still in barrel – not yet degassed – it hasn’t moved since the harvest. Half destemmed. It will be racked before the harvest for bottling in October.
Hmm – a beautiful nose, more granular, more saline – growing in higher tones – a great invitation. Hmm – sleeker despite a little more tannic structure – but practically grainless again. Such depth of classy flavour – violets and licorice blending with the darker red fruit. I’d keep this 2-3 years and for up to 20 (if I can make it!) Also great!
Like the last a barrel sample – nearly 80% whole clusters were retained for this fermentation. Here it’s more marne and limestone – Gregory blames this for the small reduction!
Aeration of the glass slowly lifting away some reduction – the concentrated aroma becoming more and more floral – violets to start – maybe peony with more air. Mouth-filling – quite some stature. The most fluid style of all these three – a mineral, clean style that’s almost juicy. This has the most impressive parts but less well-knit today than the Beau Monts. The finish – very fine and accessible – indeed delicious too! I think this could also be a great wine – it’s just a little less in place but with super characteristics!
Zero added sulfur – 50% Beaumonts, 25% Batard and 25% a part that goes in the ‘standard’ Irancy – made in stainless steel. About 50% whole cluster here. For Bottling in September
Lots of colour. A broad and forward nose – the licorice is stronger here – starting higher toned but this volatile note is quickly gone and replaced with more floral notes. Ultra silky, mouth-filling wine, almost juicy, the finish is more linear and fine – very long just more subtle. Great nature!