Tasted in Gevrey-Chambertin with Nicolas Rossignol, 20 August 2020.
Nicolas on 2019:
“This year we had some very hot days in February – relatively – after that we had a much colder time in April when frost was a worry – we were really at the limit of damage. After it was cool in May, even June, so the flowering happened quite late. We started to harvest on 19 September, 3 weeks later than we will do 2020. In the end it was a year that was very warm, but at different times to the maturing of the grapes. The wines have a good tension, sun but not too much, not a lot of dry or figued grapes. Virtually all the 2019s fermented with some whole-clusters, about 60% on average. The malos were completed very early – November.”
All the wines showed well today – but at this stage in their elevage, it is the grand crus that are clearly the most grandiose and covetable!
All the wines sampled from barrel. There was no pigeage in 2019. All the wines were racked between December and March, and will spend 4-5 weeks in tank before bottling:
2019 Bourgogne Rouge
Vines in the commune. No new oak in this wine but all the elevage was in barrel. Bottling is planned for December
A little barrel funk but an interesting depth of fruit too. Round, supple, very fine tannin, a wine that opens out impressively in the finish – delicious finishing too. Excellent Bourgogne…
2019 Beaune 1er Teurons
From the high slopes near Cras, ‘the wine’s more like a Cras than a Teurons!’ The vines almost touching the cuverie of JC Rateau. Planted 1982 .
A deep nose, suggesting a little reduction but mainly the stems. More depth of flavour, delicious wine, with a good balance and length. Super Beaune!
2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes
This villages Gevrey is made from old vines averaging 60-years-old. A mix of different parcels – 3 parcels higher, one in the middle of village and the last in the flats of Gevrey.
Plenty of colour. A less impactful nose but also a width, of fine aroma – it’s still a great invitation. Silky, bright freshness, full of complex flavour energy in the finish. A super Gevrey villages…
2019 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cherbaudes
A little less colour than the vv. Faintly reductive, oaked and showing the whole clusters – forward, smoky and a little sweet – aeration bringing some floral quality. Mouth-filling, beautiful acidity, marked a little by the same notes as the nose, but complex and a little airy, indeed elegant, over the palate. Weight of finishing flavour. Super but a medium-term wine I would say to lose the aromas and flavours of elevage.
2019 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos Prieur
Medium colour. Here is more freshness of aroma, a little herb and wc – no overt reduction or barrel notes this time. Wide, energetic again, a certain delicacy of style but lots of complexity, holding impressively in the finish. I like!
2019 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Petit Chapelle
Richer, deeper soil with more clay than the last wine. Since 2003, no pigeage with this wine.
A more vibrant nose of wc. Fuller, more impact, a little more width too – yet very fine balancing acidity. The flavour is wide and sweet, a modest touch of tannin but practically with no grain. Strongly finishing. A big wine but one with super balance. “Yes the pH is not so low but the freshness is definitely there,” says Nicolas.
Quite a cold area under the forest so normally the last parcel to be harvested. 0.75 hectares right in the centre of the vineyard.
Ooh – now that’s perfumed, plenty of roses from the wc – delightful. Delicate, fine energy, a little young tannin though with hardly any grain. Long, long, long – mouth-watering. A wine to be patient with despite the very open nose today – potentially great wine once more…
For us a warmer, more sunny area, closer to the rock. Only about 40cm of soil before the rock, but the vines are old – from the 1920s. We are the only domaine with vines in both Gemeaux and La Chapelle, and the soils are different – the soil is much deeper in Gemeaux and most of the vines at the domaine are indeed in Gemeaux, planted in the 1930s – though only 1/4 of the latter. The rows start with 1.1 metre spacing but by the end of the rows there is only 80 cm – that works only with a horse!
Medium coloured. The nose a little tighter – but what wouldn’t be after the Latricieres? It’s a faintly smoked mocha nose. Fuller but what freshness – mouth-filling with delicious complexity – a little oak flavour in the middle which will fade. Really a very fine finishing flavour, a little structural here but another great wine.
A plot right in the middle of Chambertin, which takes in the full rows – bottom to top.
Tighter up top but the nose here has more depth and width. Versus the other wines there’s a more seamless quality to the faintly spiced aroma. Mouth-filling, more elegant, more composed than the Chapelle. Some textural drag from the tannin but no grain. A burst of extra-floral impression in the finish. Super wine – worth a search, but today be patient and drink the Chapelle!