Tasted with Chris Santini in Auxey-Duresses, 12 June 2023.
Santini Collective
2 Rue Traversiere
21190 Auxey Duresses
Tel: +33 6 63 38 84 37
More reports with Chris Santini
It had been far too long that I didn’t get to visit Chris in Auxey – so I set about putting that right – seemingly with good timing. All was calm when I visited…
“Yes, it’s not the madhouse that it once was – it’s a lot calmer here these days! I’ve still a couple of friends who have a barrel or two in the cellar but these days it’s only that.
“2016-2019 my production got up to 15,000 bottles but generally speaking a lack of business knowledge coupled with up to 6 different people making wine here by 2020 ultimately brought a big tax check-up which I wasn’t expecting – sometimes other people’s wines being classed as mine. All of a sudden I had a successful vintage but one which resulted in what I can call ‘discouraging tax-bills.’ Effectively it needed a big reset – for a time I even considered giving up – and that was before the trials and tribulations of frost and the resulting prices of grapes in 2021 – that vintage I only made a little Beaujolais. It was my importers that kept me going – they were so supportive and I restarted with these 2022s – not cheaper grapes than 2021 but better quality and availability.
“Covid reinforced in me that I want this to remain a part-time gig – it’s still fun but I don’t want to go over 10k bottles per year – in fact 5k will be fine – I’ll just adapt! In 2022 there are 6 wines, one white.”
The wines…
Delicious wines!
2022 Mâcon-Villages
‘From Uchizy, with plenty of clay and some limestone in the soil – only 11% alcohol – I still call it an entry-level crisp white wine – though that’s harder to say with the current price of grapes. All stainless elevage, with a little early batonnage – this was, like all the wines, bottled less than 1 week ago.’
Aromatically easy and open, fresh and inviting. Faint gas, mouth-filling, almost a little steely and exciting. Crisp indeed – plenty of vibration to this finishing flavour. Yum!
The blend of Pinot, Gamay and Chardonnay – ‘this has been made here since 2017’
Really aromatic – an open nose, higher-toned than standard – but what’s standard for this co-fermented blend?! A little sizzle of gas but what a juicy, moreish wine – only 10.5% – bravo wine – just TOO drinkable.
2022 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Vines in the Côtes Chalonnaise – made for the first time in 2016 – vines that are slightly too high altitude to be allowed to take a Givry label.
A narrower but deep nose – almost vertical in style – I feel that there’s a little rigour to this shape. More concentration, more depth to this flavour too. Still with energy and a fine breadth to the finishing flavours. Holding well – drink the previous whilst waiting a year for this! Very good!
2022 Côteaux Bourguignone
From Auxey – gamay vines in the middle of the village. ‘The grapes looked great but were really ripe – 14.5% So it’s a bit of a beast of a gamay. I also made a wine from Pierres Dorées which turned out a bit simple – but the blend I liked!’
Nicely fragrant. Concentrated, incisive even. Growing in energetic intensity – juicy again and full of character – that’s a super result!
2022 Chiroubles
In conversion to organic – ‘the first grapes harvested by us in 2022 – 28-August.’
Slightly darker fruit with an implied silkiness to this width of fruit. Great presence in the mouth – the leading edge of flavour with an incisive hint of acidity – but also making the wine more moreish and juicy. Broad and absolutely delicious finishing – simply an excellent Chiroubles – another very moreish wine from here in 2022…
2022 Marsanne – VdF
Vines in the middle of Morgon – the father of the owner wanted some rhône-style wines for family consumption – these days they sell of all the grapes: Vioniger, Marsanne, Roussane – Chris took the Marsanne for the fun – 400 bottles worth – made like his reds – half whole cluser, the other half pressed and the juice returned to the other whole-cluster half
Garden herbs – sage and rosemary – with some floral character too – the combination is actually rather attractive. Supple, silky, yet with a frame of growing tannin – no grain – the freshness keeping everything in balalnce – almost an Aperol bitters style but with some extra sweetness – that’s such an interesting and drinkable wine – I think Chris did really well here!