Tasted in Nuits St.Georges with Grégory Patriat, 18 March 2021.
Grégory on 2019:
“Looking at the whites we have only half of the normal volume in 2019 – there are some wines with high alcohols but also with concentrated acidities. The reds were better from the perspective of volume, nearer 25% lower than a normal vintage; a part of that was clearly the heat of the summer and the lower amount of juice but there was also the necessary triage to remove the sun-dried grapes. I did only one pigeage through the whole vinification for the reds. The whites are not yet bottled, they are only just assembled, the reds have, in the main, just finished their bottlings. Practically all the reds were vinified without sulfur – the first small addition was done just after the malolactic fermentation – this was harder to do in 2020.”
Much more work in the vines is done here than was once the case for ‘traditional’ maisons; in 2020, 42 hectares worth of wine was produced – and the team here harvested 26 hectares of that, themselves…
All the whites were showing their barrel elevage to varying degrees but they had not yet finished this elevage – I’d still wait at least a year before touching any of them – even the great ones! The reds in contrast showed little of their oak but plenty of the clarity and great winemaking that I have come to expect from Greg at this address.
2019 Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Planchots
Plenty of colour. A fine nose with lots of fine red, pure-fruit, notes. Full, easy over the palate, beautifully textured – a little fizz of finishing minerality. Graphite minerality in the more serious finish – but impressively finishing – very, very long for the label.
1902 the original planting by the grandfather of the current owner – 65% of the original vines are still in place.
Here’s an extra width of higher-toned perfume. Ooh – that’s super – fresh, open, structural – not the richness of most Beaumonts, rather a fine and open, elegant energy – 1er cru standard this year – bravo!
2 parcels – higher up in Combottes and Brescules
More volume of aroma – plenty of freshness – quite complex too. A little more salinity and fat – wide in the finish – a more meaty style of wine – long finishing. There’s more wine here but I easily prefer the Chorey.
2019 Santenay 1er La Maladière
Another wine of airy aromatic impression but still quite concentrated. Extra fresh and open – a mineral base to the flavours here, slightly floral-accented fruit flavours – slightly reduced in the finish – but it was only bottled this week! A very good wine…
2019 Ladoix 1er Les Hautes Murottes
Still, probably, the only producer of this.
Very different nose yet still airy and concentrated – more a higher-toned fruit. Silky, concentrated, layers of fine flavour here. The finish really opening out wide – that’s a great finish – excellent wine!
2019 Pommard 1er Les Arvelets
‘This place would have produced meagre wines more than 10 years ago but today…’
An airy but narrow nose. Hmm, classy, composed, mouth-watering – elegant but also concentrated. A very tasty wine too.
2019 Aloxe-Corton 1er Les Valozières
Next to Domaine Chevalier’s Volazières, under Prieur’s Corton Bressandes
Again an airy nose – of attractive complexity too – getting better and better – that’s a great nose. Nicely precise, freshly mouth-watering – a little structure at the end but here’s a simply excellent Aloxe – delicious and fine.
2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Murots
1.5 hectares of JCB-owned vines, worked biodynamically by the team of Vougeraie. Owned since 2015. ‘There’s not much soil here.’
Nice width of aroma at the base of this wine – pure and attractive. Fine, nicely energetic and open, not overtly concentrated but there is a width of supple and mobile flavour here – another excellent wine – excellent Gevrey-Chambertin…
Vines planted in ’42 so not a large yield.
A forward and very perfumed nose – very different from the wines that came before. Silky, direct, fresh – that’s a really great Nuits – not overtly structural but all is there with a small caress of tannin in the finish – but nothing dry. Bravo wine!
2019 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Aux Echanges
That’s another highly perfumed nose with a little textural depth. Fresh, fine texture again – a little more width and less direction than the Clos des Argillières. Beautiful over the palate – the middle and finishing flavour is excellent – slightly mineral with a little finishing rose perfume…
‘From high. ‘It’s a wine that I just can’t domesticate!’
A more compact nose today – faintly floral, red-fruited but this fruit is hard to locate. Filling the mouth; supple, velvet-textured, a cushion to the wine, nicely mouth-watering. The most impressive part of this wine today is the breadth and height of the finish – it’s a great finish – the rest of the wine I found a little shy. It’s a great Beaune with patience though, no doubt.
2019 Gevrey-Chamberetin 1er Cherbaudes
First vintage here.
Lovely depth of colour. There’s a little of the oak showing on this nose; also slightly spiced, some whole cluster and very complex. Pure, good attack, mouth-watering deliciously. Fine width, saline, a little finishing dryness but there’s no grain of tannin to find. Super wine.
The third vintage for this
A little floral whole cluster and a nice depth – not so wide today. A fine balance between structure and sophistication here – layers of fine flavour. Broad finishing – lots of whole-cluster perfume here – that’s an excellent wine – really excellent…
2019 Clos de Vougeot
Another first vintage – organic grapes from the middle of the Clos.
The nose is tighter at the top but there’s a super width of aroma at the base – the whole-clusters and a little barrel spice are visible. A step up in attack and volume, plenty of structure – as it should be – open flavoured, properly shaped CV. The smoky oak is not yet fully integrated – but only a few months will be required. Very excellent Clos de Vougeot, maybe with additional upside…
Origin from Chorey. It won’t be bottled until April.
That’s a vibrant nose, mineral and deep – a great invitation. Mouth-filling, mouth-watering. Juicy wine, long and faintly tannic finishing – great aligoté
2019 Bourgogne Blanc Nature de Ursuline
There is a small amount of sulfur in this, the vines in the commune of Puligny.
There’s more width of aroma here – less depth. Fuller, but again with a fine mouth-watering character.
2019 Monthelie Blanc
A staple here for a number of years but then they lost the contract. Here’s a new provider.
The oak more visible but also more depth of fresh fruit. Larger scale, more flavour energy too. That’s a super wine but showing a little too much oak today – in 6 months it will already be better – there was just one barrel – but a 400-litre barrel.
2019 Marsannay Blanc
South of Marsannay in Couchey
There’s a warmth to the fruit here but coupled to a good freshness. Wide, open, like the nose with good freshness – a slight smoky barrel note but again it will be short-lived. A super finish again. Very good wine…
2019 Fixin Blanc
Vines right under the clos des Perries – ‘and it’s chardonnay not pinot blanc!’
Plenty of colour. That’s a nice nose – vibrant and inviting. Mouth-filling, layered and with a freshness to balance the richness of the flavour. Long finishing – this richer, sweeter, though the flavour is not my favourite – but the wine is beautifully balanced and constructed…
‘Never expect minerality or tension here, it’s the Meursault Charmes of Santenay! A lot of clay leads to richness here. Old vines – nearly 60-years-old.
Yes – now that’s a super nose – fresh, wide, agrume fruit and an attractive accent of barrel too. Mouth-filling, energetic, mineral, long-flavoured, still a little oak flavour to lose in the finish. That’s a great wine – bravo!
2019 St.Aubin 1er En Remilly
A yellower, riper fruit here – still a good freshness. In the mouth, this is more sedate in style, more depth, the oak more visible. A more generous style than the Santenay – a great finish too. Plenty of barrel just now – I prefer the edginess of the Santenay today.
2019 Meursault Limozin
Here’s a large-scaled nose – round and generous. In the mouth a super attack – direct, melting, a little grain of tannin. Great finishing – a wine that gets better and better – excellent.
2019 Puligny-Montrachet Le Trezin
Here’s a nice aromatic freshness – inviting. Vibrant, wide, melting with great flavour – that’s a very lovely wine, a certain salinity is present here too. Really a super finishing intensity. That’s an excellent wine.
An old-vine massale selection, 80-years-old – only 0.20 ha – JCB are the only producers of this wine.
Ooh – that’s a super freshness. That’s really interesting in the mouth – concentration but with plenty of energy to balance – a citrus intensity to these finishing flavours. That’s an excellent wine – a great Beaune blanc.
On the Pernand side and the first Charlemagne that Greg has ever made – hard to believe – only 1 barrel!
That’s a super nose – of freshness and depth – a fine invitation. Direct, a very attractive agrume fruit, cushioned, not steely – there’s a richness here but with a fine mouth-watering line to the flavour that acts as a great foil – only a 1-year-old barrel but there’s still plenty of barrel-flavour in the finish today.