Tasted in Demigny with Jean Yves Devevey, 18 March 2021.
Domaine Jean Yves Devevey
Rue de Breuil
Tel: +33 3 85 49 91 11
It’s too long since I found my way into the cellar of Jean Yves Devevey – he makes some beautiful wines – my bad!
His reds all with whole-cluster – and this has brought much more overt structure in the 2018 vintage, whereas the 2019s are much more supple and approachable – “I should probably sell them before the 18s,” laughs Jean Yves – he has a point!
The 2019s are all now ready for bottling. They currently wait in tank and will be done in April.
There is quite a bit less volume here in 2019 but I found a nicer line of acidity and rounder tannins in those wines compared to the 2018s – the 2019 bottling is imminent. The 18s are fine and for keeping in your cellar a while before approaching – maybe 2-3 years. The 19s will be much more approachable right from the start. Worth a special search is his rare, long-aged white Bourgoogne the 2017 Champs Perdrix l’Air du Temps
2017 Rully la Chaume
That’s got an easy red nose, attractive, simple but sweetly inviting. Mouth-filling, nicely vibrant flavour but still with a grain of tannin to melt. But a good length of flavour here.
2018 Rully La Chaume
Much more colour. Deeper, impressive – indeed a slightly cushioned impression. A nice floral aspect grows from the glass too. Plenty of structure and fine freshness the nose much more approachable than the palate today, but finishing with a fine and wide flavour, again with a faint floral extra…
2018 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune
Thats another nose, thats deeper and more impressive, faintly floral and also showing a faint reduction perhaps. Nice mouth-filling volume – plenty of tannin but hardly drying. Super finishing too – like the last this is a wine to wait for. But super!
Nice freshness here – a finesse and a perfume too – like the last two. A wine to keep as theres plenty of structure here. But proper Volnay character too…
2018 Beaune 1er Pertuisots
That’s a forward nose; high-toned, floral almost suggesting a hint of volatile. Mouth-filling, plenty of energy, intensity and like the others plenty of tannin too – really wines de garde from JY in 2018…
Ooh, a strawberry jam nose – freshness and very inviting style. Silky, supple – direct, faintly tannic but no grain, long, delicious great Bourgogne.
2019 Rully La Chaume
A deeper, inkier nose. Fresh, grainy but finer than the 2018, long, lovely wine a little attractive muscle here. That’s a super wine!
The nose here is airier, it needs a bit of aeration to come together. Impact, concentration, layers of flavour – thats a super wine – a little compact today but it has everything. Very long, suggesting but not quite delivering some finishing florals. Great villages…
High toned and fresh, a style that recalls the 2018 but a hint less extreme – lovely anyway. Broad, complex, perfumed, and concentrated in the finosh. A great Beaune…
18 months of elevage here:
2019 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune Champs Perdrix
‘A very low harvest, we pruned a bit too short! 15 hl/ha ‘
A ripe citrus nose but with energy. A little ripe lime and golden fruit at the core. Good energy and long finishing
2019 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune Les Chagnots
Here’s a nose that’s a little honied. Supple, layered flavour – I like the shape of this more. The finish is more mineral and more salivating. I like!
2019 Rully La Chaume Blanc
Like all of JY’s whites at this stage of elevage, he guards a faint oxidative lick – it’s gone after bottling and his wines seem very robust to oxidation,
Vibrant in the mouth, rather tannic too – that’s got super energy, almost floral finishing too. Simply excellent wine…
2017 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune Champs Perdrix
Hmm – that’s a lovely, slightly cushioned, nose. Mouth-filling, lovely energy, easy over the palate – and delicious.
Different elevage. The last had 12+5 months, this a full 30 months in barrel, zero SO2, one racking after 12 months but only because was logistically necessary to move the wine.
Deeper colour. A nose thats got fruit thats more emphasising quince, extra vibrant. The palate is extra mineral. Thats super – I would say extra bravo too.