Tasted in Chichée with Nathalie Oudin, 07 January 2019.
5, rue du Pont
Tel: +33 3 86 42 44 29
Nathalie on 2018:
“2018 was hyper generous! You don’t normally get volume and ripeness together but this year we had both. Normally I don’t make the rendement but in 2018 I had 72 hl – 60 for the normal rendement, plus 10 complimentary, and 2 for the pumping et-cetera.
“I was worried because there were lots of storms in the first part of the year – mainly worrying about hail – some mildew pressure too because of that, but the dryness that followed blocked that. I went on holiday in mid-August and thought we didn’t have much volume – the grapes were small and hard – but they had grown when I got back, and I was happy! In just one day of harvesting I brought in the same volume that I did in the whole of 2016! They are fermenting, but I like the way they taste – they are chiselled and have a good line! Early September harvesting – 10th.”
Nathalie on 2017:
“2017? Well, after 10-12 hl/ha in 2016 we did better! There was frost but I’d describe it as the normal Spring-frost that we are used to – we had 45 hl/ha and for me I’m very happy at this level – I would say that it was close to a normal yield for here – 45-50 is my target. It’s a balanced vintage – it’s rich but also very well-balanced. The richness of 15 but more definition!
“For me, a year is a year – I’m making a proper elevage – it’s been complicated by the lack of wine, there can be no doubt about that, but I’m not bottling and selling early. Some village Chablis was already bottled in December – but not here – you won’t find any Chablis Nouveau here!”
Back on full form here – beautiful 2017s and a more than interesting 2016 to compare – if you can find that one!
Normally about 12 parcels are assembled here, and this cuvée would represent about 65% of the domaine’s production.
Oh that’s a forward, round, almost textured nose – a real invitation – lots of purity but also complexity. Supple, some depth and richness of flavour – but it’s more a concentration and there’s very fine balance. Really as good a villages Chablis as you could wish for. Excellent.
The long elevage cuvée here, even with so little volume still decided to produce this.
Ooh wow – this is another animal – flowers, green leaves – bouquet garni. Ooh again. This is oily-rich, beautiful texture, melting, mineral, almost but not quite yet delicious. Really wide and floral in the finish – like the nose. Ooh – touched by austerity today but this could be quite special in 3-5 years…
2017 Chablis 1er Vaugiraut
Two parcels; one of 65 years, a third in volume, and the other part, 35 years old.
Less width, fresher and of more depth. Wide, slowly gaining volume in the mouth – a creamy more exotic fruit – yellow, almost banana, very fine texture, saline too. Special. Lots of wine here – a proper saline, long finish. Super.
1949 planted. A third of the vines of the domaine are masalle with and average of 50 years of age.
Ooh – narrower again, but more intense pure fruit aroma, again touched by flowers. More line, drive, fine richness of texture again, waves of flavour. This is just a beauty – widening, relaxing over the palate but with power too. Give it a little time, but it’s simply über-Clasic!