Tasted in Chablis with Patrice Vocoret, 18 January 2019.
Domaine Vocoret et Fils
40 Route d’Auxerre
Tel: +33 3 86 42 12 53
Patrice on 2018:
“Agreeably surprised – and everyone was surprised at what the magic vine could deliver – a rendement of such an order after such heat and dryness. A vintage that may lack a little acidity but will drink very well young. The last harvested grapes didn’t have the best balance but everyone in the profession will have felt that the pressure was lifted – particularly the younger vignerons that have heavily invested. we did have lots of worry about mildew and oïdium at one point, but then the dryness saved us from that. Malos were fast but not the alcoholic fermentations – they are done but they were slow.”
Patrice on 2017:
“2017 now that’s a bit more than half a harvest, with some frost. It was a complicated vintage, lots of rain at one stage – some areas could have seen a bit more maturity. But wines that look good and will age very well. I started the harvest quite early – 31 August to 12 September. I think these will be really great wines in 5-6 years, they are wines that are alive and will satisfy the regular clientelle – fat, fruity wines can be nice but is it what we should be looking for in Chablis? – probably not. During elevage the wines were actually a little austere.”
A very good return at this domaine in 2017 – classic in style and the finishes of practically all the wines is the calling-card of the domaine in 2017 – they are simply splendid here.
All DIAM seals for more than 5 years now. They finished last of the bottlings – the last of the Chablis – last week! The first bottlings were done around Easter 2018.
2017 Petit Chablis
From the plateau above the grand crus
A quite vibrant nose with some green herb, but still an invitation. Lots of volume and great texture. Layered, a hint of rigour but this is excellent!
A large part in Prehy near Brocard.
Hmm, that’s pretty – wide, more lime than green herb – nice. Wide – fine – delicious great line – this is excellent.
2017 Chablis Vieilles-Vignes
Always the same parcels, planted about 1970-75. Plenty near the Brocard winery in Prehy
Ooh that’s really another very fine nose. In the mouth a hint of gas, volume, energy, more mineral in style. Depth of finishing flavour with a little floral accent. Excellent again!
2017 Chablis 1er Montmains
More weight – some herb plenty of complexity. Fuller, riper, still a great silky texture, narrower in the finish, floral again – not a massive leap – but a leap mainly in the finish which is excellent.
2017 Chablis 1er Forêts Vieilles-Vignes
Longer elevage with some wood.
A little sweet wood but a tighter nose. Round but open. Oaked, relatively easy wine, spiced but with a lovely finish – hopefully this will tighten as the oak fades – the finish is fine…
2017 Chablis 1er Vaillons
From Beugnons, Epinottes, Ronciéres, Melinots and Sechets – almost all the Sechets is older vines – pretty much everything except Lys in this!
Hmm, this is another modest aroma – spiced, some width. Hmm – more drive more line, flavour melting from the core – this is excellent some quite ripe fruit at the core but a wine of fine zip and energy. Lovely. A great finish once more!
1952 vines in Secher
A bigger nose – more open, ripe but less overt fruit. Hmm – a waterfall of flavour – big, bubbling, currently lacking a little direction but this is great wine with a great finish.
2017 Chablis 1er Montée de Tonnerre
Good width but certainly a nose of more discretion than the last few. A different shape, line, cool fruit, mineral, a touch of finishing salinity. This is very fine and like all with a simply great finish.
2017 Chablis 1er Mont de Milieu
Like the last, a more discreet nose, but with some elegance of aroma. Fresh, great line, mineral. A wine of sweeping lines – excellent – more depth of fresh, fine flavour in the finish too. A beauty.
2017 Chablis Blanchots
2.12 ha owned here.
Another quite discreet nose, floral and elegant, eventually a touch of barrel too. Full in the mouth – the most overtly concentrated, a touch of coconut, but supple, well-textured wine, vibration of finish waves of flavour – it’s great here – a little monolithic to start – wait 3-5 years!
2017 Chablis Les Clos
Also touched by the barrel but clearly there is more depth of aroma here. More open despite its concentration. More giving, energy but not too much – I wouldn’t drink the last today but this without problem, despite the barrel-accent. More subtly long finishing. Lovely.
A ‘little’ blind wine:
Hmm, a big nose, ripe, complex, with the first hints of some development. Full round, fresh, complex – grand cru. Layers, concentrated layers of flavour. Super in the finish with multiple dimensions even a small touch of phenolic texture which indicates more youth. It’s very 2015 but with a bit more complexity – 3-5 years worth – but what previous vintage has this shape? – so I say GC 2015 – It’s Les Clos, 2015 – time to stop guessing and keep my 100% record 🙂
As I mentioned older wines and had rejected 2012 as a possibility, Patrice found one of those too:
A little less colour. Big aroma, slightly firework reduction. Less sweet, depth of flavour – lots of concentration, some firework here too, but subtly additive. Ooh delicious, broad finishing, and finally here’s the sweetness – this is great and it shows younger than the 2015.