Tasted in Chablis with Thibaud Roch, 22 January 2019.
Domaine du Chardonnay
Moulin du Pâtis
Tel: +33 3 86 42 48 03
Thibaud on 2018:
“2018 is an important year for Chablis – certainly the year of the century so far! Volume with quality and no problems. Not to forget that it was sorely needed given the suffering that many had in 2017 and 2016. We still had plenty of worry at the end of the season because it was so dry. But I’d say that the whole of Chablis is very happy. We harvested a little longer than most years waiting for maturity in 2018.”
Thibaud on 2017:
“2017 was also an early harvest we expected to be starting at the end August but in the end we waited a little into September. A little more volume than in 2016 – but not a lot – we started with a spring where we lost the grapes of a few vines to frost but we had some decent quantity of grapes in other places, though the grape skins were actually sometimes quite tough so there was less juice. But we like the wines.”
The news here is that Etienne and William will be taking their retirement soon and its William’s son – Arnaud who will taking over – he may have a great start with the 2018s!
As always a steady range from this producer; the Petit Chablis is invariably great – or almost great like this year.
All is now in bottle but not yet everything is being commercialised.
2017 Petit Chablis
Vines in Beines, Prehy and the plateau behind the Grand Crus – but mainly 9 ha in Beines on quite stony soil. All stainless steel elevage.
A nice freshness here. Round, lovely depth of saline flavour, citrus and a roundness of flavour. This is really excellent with fine concentration too. Delicious, excellent wine – always a signature cuvée of this producer.
Starting to commercialise this now. Vines on both sides of Chichée, with separate vinifications for the 17 hectares.
Round and very perfumed. Lots of mouth-filling volume – fresh, saline, a greener lime-style fruit. Wait 6 months as this is just a little less tasty than the PC today – but not by much. Really it’s very fine. With an excellent finish.
2017 Chablis 1er Vaillons
From Epinottes and Roncières and a tiny part of Lys – the latter a relatively small 0.16 ha from a total of 1 ha.
Fresh, wide, lime fruit again – not a big nose though. Ooh lime again but a very fine extra silk to the texture – I have a less ripe impression but love the texture with a subtle salinity too. Lots of excitement with the finishing energy – yum!
2017 Chablis 1er Montmains
3 sectors, but all Montmains, 3.85 hectares.
A smaller nose, but with a subtle though very fine perfume. Hmm, this is a little rounder in shape but no less well-defined or fresh. Fine intensity. And a small burst of even more intense finishing flavour – it’s a baby, but it’s a really excellent baby!
Just under 1 ha a mix of 2 parcels, one steep and south-facing, plus another small parcel in Vaugiraud. Vine ages between 5-30. Like a Roman amphitheatre. Like the others all stainless-steel and sealed with cork.
Hmm – a nose that opens more and more – perfumed again – it’s a fine invitation. Supple, wide, fresh, a wine of both clarity and complexity – perfect Chablis – Bravo!
2017 Chablis 1er Mont de Milieu
This with 15-20% oak for the micro-oxygenation – but all assembled back in tank for a period before bottling. 0.69 hectares. Small parcels so one of the smallest cuvées here.
No overt oak aroma – like the previous there is perfume – here is an extra roundness. Extra depth of flavour and also of texture. Fresh, slightly cushioned, complex, saline – lots of finishing energy and complexity – all in a fine package – excellent wine!