Boisset Jean-Claude – 2016

Update 28.12.2017(27.12.2017)billn

Tasted in Nuits St.Georges with Grégory Patriat, 15 December 2017.

Jean-Claude Boisset
5 Quai Dumorey
21700 Nuits St.Georges
Tel: +33 3 80 62 61 61

Grégory on 2017:
The main difference in vinification is that 80% of the 2017s are, so-far, made without sulfur, I think the quality of the tannins that we extract are superior like this.

Grégory on 2016:
“2016 – the year of the excesses. An excess of rain – 500mm between January and April normally its 700mm in the whole year. Then it was too dry in August – some vineyards were actually suffering – but better that than the other way around! Treatments were every 5-7 days in the vineyards for those in organic – it was one of the most difficult vintages. Actually our purchases brought in a similar volume to 2015, but that was due to incursions I made into Maranges and the Côtes Chalonnaise.

“The amount of whole-clusters has reduced the alcohol and made the wines more digestable in 2016. The malos were really late this year. Nothing bottled yet, all are still in barrel – two winters are the key.”

The wines…

Good whites, magnificent reds in 2016 – well done!

2016 Bourgogne Aligoté La Corvées au Moines
From the bottom of the Puligny slope. Will have 19 months in barrel – treated no different to Corton-Charlemagne – harvested at 12.5° and 35 hl/ha. Only 3,000 bottles.
A deep nose, pungent, faintly saline. Supple, layered, a richness of flavour but very fresh, nice waves of fresh flavour. Super and what a finish!

2016 Marsannay Blanc
South of Marsannay in Couchey
Also a punchy and deep nose, nicely rich but properly fresh too. A lovely line, so much silkier than the last wine, layered and tasty, very saline and interesting.

2016 Santenay 1er Passetemps
Never expect minerality or tension here, it’s the Meursault Charmes of Santenay! A lot of clay leads to richness here.
Broader, saline a suggestion of reduction. Plenty of gas, this makes it very fresh, really interest lime fruit in the finish too

2016 Beaune 1er Vignes-Franches Blanc
12hl/ha so only 2 barrels from 60-70 year-old vines.
Good intensity, lots of aromatic width too. Ooh, really the best combination of richness and freshness so far – this is top! A great finish.

2016 St.Aubin 1er En Remilly
Almost a Riesling impression here. Wide and fresh, less sweet but growing in mouth-watering interest, lovely citrus flavours melting over the palate. Excellent.

Les Rouges…

2016 Bourgogne Cuvée Ursulines
“Natural but filtered – like this they can age as good as anything else in the cellar – will be bottled next week. One third whole cluster old vines 20hl/ha. 50% new wood to reduce volatile acidity. Just a touch of sulfur after the malo.”
Smells great; round, fresh, clean, modestly whole cluster – this is so inviting. A little gas, but beautifully wide, complex and delicious wine of fine concentration. Bravo!
2016 Chorey-lès-Beaune Les Beaumonts
65% still from 1902, the rest 50 years old, still a decent volume despite the frost. 12.8° natural…
Smells wonderfully wide. Supple, real depth of fresh dark fruit, almost a darkness of graphite, mouth-watering. As always for the label, simply exceptional – the force is with this one!

2016 Nuits St.Georges
Charbonnières was 98% frosted so the 300kg (14 barrels is possible) from that vineyard was mixed with 900k from two other vineyards…
Deep, concentrated but floral – lovely. A little grab of tannin, layers of flavour – for keeping but super potential here…

2016 Aloxe-Corton 1er Les Valozières
A nice roundness and quite some weight of aroma – pretty red fruits in there. Lots of width and really a freshness – tannin but it won’t be hanging around for too long – wait two years, but here is delicious wine…

2016 Ladoix 1er Les Hautes Murottes
Under 20hl/ha from old pinot fin with tiny grapes
Deep, faintly reduced. Direct, very fresh, but still layers of bright fruit. Plenty of finishing tannin – fine but to wait for…

2016 Pommard
A blend of two vines, Brescule close to Charmottes and Combottes near La Vache at the top of the village.
Really a very beautiful nose of fine fruit and flowers – lovely. Fresh width of delicious mouth-watering complexity – great villages Pommard – well done!
2016 Gevrey-Chambertin
From les Echezeaux but contractually not allowed on the label.
Ooh – this is a very considered and very beautiful nose. Wide and fresh, complex too – this of-course needs more time for elevage, but it melts beautifully over the palate – love this!

2016 Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs
90-year-old vines. Not long finished its malo. ‘I’ve tried but whole cluster doesn’t seem to work.’
A very subtle reduction but beautiful with good depth. Bright, gassy, but concentrated, in the mid and finish it’s excellent – more elevage needed but potentially great.

2016 Chambolle-Musigny
Malo done two months ago. Less than half a crop – actually 65% less.
Deep but with beautiful floral references above – super. Nice volume in the mouth, very fresh, but meltingly complex – a good finishing tannin here too. Will be great!
2016 Vosne-Romanée Les Jacquines
Close to Clos des Réas, south of appellation – ‘Have tried wc and never been happy so this is all destemmed.’
Hmm – wide, fine, complex, very pretty indeed – just getting better and better – super nose! Supple, silkiest wine so far, almost a chocolate finish. Bravo – fabulous!
2016 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Charmes
Brighter, wider and more complex – crystalline aromas of pure dark fruit. Supple, concentrated, full of freshness, wc flavour – but beautifully done – long, mouth-watering. A wine that still follows the Jacquines with panache!
2016 Beaune 1er Grèves
From high so not affected by the frost.
A big depth of aroma, faintly spiced, less fine than the last two. So fresh but so much volume and dimension of flavour – a structural wine, melting over the palate, really complex – the last two are much easier today, but great, great wine…
2016 Clos de la Roche
Three barrels – all new.
A profound nose flowers above but deep and almost mineral below, almost fumé. So concentrated, great texture despite the concentration there’s not much cushioning here – it’s pure concentrated wine of freshness. Great – perhaps the best ever here!

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