Despite his upbeat demeanour, Antoine Olivier underlined the scale of yield losses in Santenay, not just in 2012, but stretching back as far as 2003.
It has become easy to characterise the recent vintages in Santenay; those that have been hailed, and those that haven’t. If you take the 10 year period of 2003-2012 (inclusive), versus the average, Santenay has lost the equivalent of four complete vintages!
Concentrates the mind – eh?!
The domaine is now using (only) DIAM 5 or screwcap for their whites, and what whites…
2011 A&R Olivier, Santenay Les Temps de C(e)Rises
P3, but very nice fruit aromas too. Good follow-through of flavour through the wine, underpinned by a nice baseline of structure.
P3 but with wider and finer red fruit notes than the Santenay. This is lovely in the mouth – fine fruit I think.
A depth of pretty red fruit aroma. This wine is principally about a moreish core of red fruit that’s supported by a fine base of acidity. Very moreish indeed!
P1. Wide with good depth of concentrated dark-red fruit. This quite elegant, just a little more to the mid-palate. Good interest in the finish too.
P4. Here is the narrow, perhaps more focused expression of Savigny fruit – but there is depth and precision. Good.
80% sourced from Noizons.
A little manipulation of the aromas by reduction. Also darker fruit. There is nice energy here – I like the finish too. Good wine.
Champs Carafe is a part of Les Bras. Les Bras is the ‘official’ lieux-dit with 2 subdivisions; Champs Carafe and Daumelles, Champs Carafe is the higher part.
Shy nose. Very wide and pretty flavours – delicious – growing acidity. Very tasty in the finish too!
2011 A&R Olivier, Santenay Les Côteaux Sous la Roche
The nose is deep and quite concentrated – the aromas mix sweet and savoury. There’s a little CO2 but there’s wide and pretty fruit too. A beautiful base of acidity here, lovely finishing concentration too. Yum!
Here is a denser, riper fruit nose with hints of green-skinned fruit. In the mouth, delicious acidity and fruit together. Very well concentrated – just a very moreish wine – lovely!
Rather denser aromas. Fills the mouth and there’s a gorgeous growth of intense mineral-laden fruit flavour in the mid-palate. Just fabulous!!!
There’s a slight excess of sulfur just now, but behind are high-tones and flowers. More concentration and more intense even than the Beaurepaire – perfect acidity. Lovely mineral flavour with some agrumes. Excellent!
More herbs. The flavours seem more mineral than the 2010 – unexpected! This is very, very impressive with a faint patisserie note in the finish. Long-lasting flavour, again with a little agrumes.
Higher-toned but now with a little savoury element too – but perhaps a reductive note too. Glorious acidity set against sweet fruit – super intense. Again mineral finishing – bravo!
Antoine et Rachel Olivier
5 rue Gaudin
21590 Santenay, France
Tel: +33 (0)3 80 20 61 35
Fax: +33 (0)3 80 20 64 82