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Jaffelin – 2015

dsc01038Tasted in Beaune with Marinette Garnier, 14th September, 2015.

Jaffelin
2 Rue Paradis
21200 Beaune
Tel: +33 3 80 22 12 49
www.maisonjaffelin.com

This was an opportunistic chance to visit Marinette as she was preparing for the 2016 harvest. We were able to taste a decent selection of their red 2015s, wines that were all still in barrel, but unfortunately the whites weren’t here to taste.

Marinette said that they were planning to start harvesting on the 22nd September. “The Cote de Nuits and Givry vineyards look okay, but the Côte de Beaune vineyards might not produce more than 5 hl/ha here.

Marinette on 2015:
The whites were bottled at the end of July – here in Beaune are mainly the reds. We didn’t have enormous yields, but they were okay. We did have some long malos here – going on into June of this year. This was a vintage where I used a lot of whole clusters…

The wines…

All these wines were sampled direct from cask in Jaffelin’s theatrical Beaune cellars, right behind the church of Notre-Dame.

Maybe it is more the vintage speaking, but I see a fine progression here vs the 2013s I last tasted at this address…

2015 Santenay 1er Gravières
A new wine in the range here – 30% whole-cluster fermentation, with a relatively short cuvaison of 20 days.
A deep and inviting dark-fruited nose. Supple, concentrated, layers of flavour – this flows well over the palate. Fine.

2015 Chorey-lès-Beaune
There’s no contract for this in 2016 due to the frost. The malo is not long finished with this one. No whole-clusters used here.
A more red fruit, slightly fainter aromatic. More direct, fresher, and brighter. Fine intensity and acidity. This is a more direct line if flavour vs the width of the last wine. Tasty but very different.

2015 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Vergelesses
An old contract for the produce of very old vines – but only one barrel in this vintage. 60% whole-cluster.
Fresh, higher toned nose, faint herbs too. Good volume, another wine that brings its flavour in waves, a little mineral and austere, but certainly more complexity – really to wait for, with a little astringency in the finish. En attend, and drink the Santenay while waiting.

2015 Auxey-Duresses 1er Les Duresses
Another wine that’s not long finished its malo. 50% whole-clusters and about 25 days of cuvaison. Oldest vines with a very low yield – maybe only 4-5 hl will be harvested in 2016…
A little mineral and very fine dark fruit. Still some gas here, but the energy is super and the flavour is palate-staining. The finish opens even wider. Dark but very fine flavoured – simply a super wine in the making.
2015 Beaune 1er Sur Les Grèves – Clos St.Anne
Not so badly frosted this (2016) year. Also just finished malo – all whole-clusters used here. Marinette may do a full two years of elevage with this wine.
A different nose, faint reduction, and a faint herb note. Lots of flavour dimension, some oak, but really a wonderful complexity – potentially wow wine here if the nose catches up with the rest.

2015 Chambolle-Musigny
A Remond barrel – here is mainly a mix of Remond and François. Grapes from a number of parcels, but small parcels, and all harvested the same day. A December finish for this malo. Also none of this in 2016.
A fresh, faintly oak-spiced top note, really appealing fruit below – super. Nice structure – not facile – plenty of energy and gorgeous fruit flavours – bravo – almost drinking already.

2015 Gevrey-Chambertin
Vicard barrel – a cooper from cognac. Also a malo that was done quickly – as most of the other Côte de Nuits here. From one parcel in Brochon near Les Jeunes Rois. ‘Always some reduction until assembled and then it goes.’
A little reduced. Ooh, this has a beautiful character over the palate, mouth-watering and complex – good flavour with a mineral impression. Great potential here.

2015 Fixin 1er Les Hervelets
Malo just done, not sulfured. 15% whole-cluster. A new wooden tank for fermentation. 14.6 natural – the young vines have bigger berries…
Pretty fruit, floral too. Floral fruit in the mouth too – bursting with super flavour. No hard edges a more velvet tannin texture. Tasty wine.

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?

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