Tasted in Puligny with Jean-Michel Chartron, 21 June, 2019.
Domaine Jean Chartron
8 Bis Grande Rue
Tel: +33 3 80 21 99 19
An early look at 2018 with Jean-Michel Chartron…
Jean-Michel on 2018:
“I’m very happy with, and of course surprised by, the volumes – I can only assume that it was down to the early season rain and even snow. We did not apply to increase yields vs what was allowed in Puligny and Chassagne but I know that some villages even applied for 62 hl/ha in their 1ers.
“Here in Pucelles there was plenty of yield as the vines are low down on the slope, but in rocky Folatières and Chevalier there were lower yields – overall though, it’s the largest volume here since 2004.
“From the start, on paper, it was a great vintage – so let’s see! All my wines in 2018 have completed their full malos. I think malos are important for stability.”
Time was limited so we skipped a few, but the consistency of the domaine is in full view – there are many wines that I would covet here.
Everything from the domaine’s Hautes-Côtes to their Montrachet is barrel-aged, and all the 2018s have long finished their fermentations:
2018 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune Blanc En Bois Guillemain
Vines in Nantoux, a longtime fermage contract – this was racked into tank at end of May
Fresh, bright and lovely with ripe citrus characterising this nose. Round on the palate but vibrantly round! Really an extract of flavour in the finish, tasty wine, balanced – and only 13%. Delicious!
2018 Rully Montmorans
4 hectares here.
Round, again vibrant, yellow citrus. Round (sorry that I keep writing that!), delicious citrus with energy and super texture. Here’s a wine with a little touch of minerality too – deliciously so. Excellent!
2018 Meursault Les Pierres
A blend of parcels that are high on the hill towards Puligny – Tillets and Narvaux – ‘I want a Puligny style hence the locations but this very Meursault.’
A little vibration of mineral reduction on this nose. Rounder again, but with more depth to the flavour.
More depth of aroma, fresher too with some white pear. A little gas, in spite of the gas this is very energetic, very mineral and long too – this far out I would already say great villages!
Normally three parcels with a hint of 1er from the Meursault side. Mainly Sous la Velle, Levrons and Rue Rousseau, plus some must from colleagues as I own only a dozen ouvrées.
A little gas, a little oak, I prefer the first half of the Chassagne, but here’s a truly great finish for a villages wine!
2018 St.Aubin 1er Murgers des Dents du Chien
A mineral width to the aroma, a little vibration contained within. Wide, layers of flavour, more precise than the Puligny today, more driving and mineral finishing too. The roundness of the vintage but ooh so good… Excellent wine.
The 101st vintage for this wine at the domaine.
Hmm – wow – that has a minerality – what a super nose! The palate is likewise shaded to the mineral, today oaked, yet with clearly great potential…
Also the 101st vintage for this wine chez Chartron. This, together with the Clos Chevalier and Clos de Pucelles were bought from a Madame Billerey – her domaine had an amazing collection of vineyards. Jean-Michel’s grandfather had half a hectare of pinot in here.
A more compact nose than the Clos de la Pucelle but finer, more floral, more perfumed. More open on the palate, so many layers, mineral, saline, slightly sweet, beautifully balanced. If the last shows the potential to be great, this is already great – bravo!
Wide, an almost granular complexity – an almond croissant. Punchier as always after the Pulignys; mineral, saline, great length again. Last drops show a hint of pepper. Excellent as a minimum – so much potential here.
Ooh, now that’s such a great a nose, so deep, so beautifully attractive. Ooh – volume, some base of oak but so balanced, simply bravo!