Tasted in Meloisey with Agnès Paquet and the end of June 2018.
Domaine Agnès Paquet
10 Rue du Puits Bouret
Tel: +33 3 80 26 07 41
Domaine Agnès Paquet is a self-created domaine, with a large proportion of the domaine’s exploitation being vines in Auxey-Duresses – a large, single parcel in Melin – but the domaine itself is actually based in Meloisey in the hills above Auxey and Pommard.
The vines came from Agnes’ grandparents but they had always been rented out to others. Agnès explains “My grandparents had a farm which was opposite this hillside of vines that they also owned – I decided that it was the patrimonie of the family and wanted to make the wine. That was in 1995. I finally took on the vines from 2000, now that parcel is a large part of the domaine, with 5 hectares in Auxey from a total of 13 hectares today. There are additional labels of Bourgogne and Pommard to go with the Auxey reds and whites.”
The single parcel in Melin covers 5 hectares; the central portion – which is 3 hectares worth – is white, with two parcels of 1 hectare of pinot noir each at either end – “It’s a super white terrior. It brings some austerity to the red and never a big density. I make no remontage, just pigeage.“. Agnes works organically but without certification as she ‘reserves the right to save the grapes.‘ Work in the vines and harvesting are manual. 2016 meant losses of about 20-30% in Auxey, but other areas of the domaine were worse, so in the end it was half a vintage for the domaine.
About 40% is exported from the domaine, it’s mainly restaurants and cavistes that buy in France. “It’s my choice that France remains the important market for me.”
Natural cork used for all the wines…
A first-class source for Auxey-Duresses
2016 Auxey-Duresses Blanc
The middle part of the vineyard, from 90-year-old vines. Grapes are pressed, left to settle overnight, cooled to 8 degrees and then sent direct into barrel for both fermentions. 12 months in barrel and another 2-3 months assembled in tank before bottling. Bottled just before Christmas.
Wide, fresh, compact nose. Plenty of volume on the mouth – concentrated too – a faint ripple of gas but the texture is fine. A growing mineral intensity in the finish. Lovely finishing but wait a year or two. Lovely…
2016 Auxey-Duresses Blanc Cuvée Patience
Here the elevage sees 350 l barrels and a longer elevage – bottled in February – otherwise it’s the same juice as the last wine. Sommelier bottle.
Ooh a wider nose, more aromatic precision and purity, more ripeness to the fruit too it seems. Also more direction in the mouth, seemingly of class and structure too. Slowly mineral finishing. This is excellent – such a difference with an alternate energy!
Part planted in 2000, the rest are 55-60 year old vines. The two vine ages get separate elevage, assembling later. Some whole clusters. Also bottled about Christmas
Bright, pure, red berry fruit. Open, fresh, a transparent wine with beautiful fresh red fruit – clarity – salinity – bravo!
2015 St.Aubin 1er Perrières
Part of Frionnes. 30% new oak used here, the same as the Patience cuvée – 15% for the other Auxey.
A fresh, sweeter, wide nose. Hmm, this melts over the palate, mouth-watering, some oak is visible, again a little finishing minerality and faint oak too. Tasty and still to wait for.
Agnes also has a special sparkling cuvée that’s made from aligoté, naturally bubbly with only 9% alcohol – and 20g of sugar – so it’s definitely sweet. But it’s delicious too!