A small selection of wines from 2007, tasted in September 2009. I thought that I noticed some slight development of style but wasn’t sure whether it was because of the vintage or because I was tasting ‘later’ from bottle rather than barrel – the usual oak tannin texture was missing in the finish of these wines, so I asked David Croix if he’d changed anything: Apparently there was slightly less newer barrels, in-part a response to a slightly more ‘tender’ vintage.
Before the 07 notes, a few comments about the 2008s that I tasted here (from barel) at the end of October 2009:
2008s – With the single exception of the Beaune 1er Cras, a wine of pure jellied black fruits, bracing acidity and an aching length, the wines wines were reduced or either showing too much carbon dioxide or still some aromas/flavours from the malolactics – I gave up after 8 different cuvées when I could write no more than two words about each – I don’t think you will be able to provide any meaningful wine-specific info from these before January…
One year David Croix had an order for Bourgogne, only to realise he didn’t have enough wine to fill the order. As an option for the New York merchant he suggested that he could assemble the racked lees from all his reds, give it time to settle as best as possible and see if it was any good. It turned out not bad despite having a slight turbidity as he chose not to filter. The New York merchant has since had exclusivity on this unusual wine – unusual in that it is a compendium of so many wines, including grand crus. When I visited, there was a ‘spare’ half bottle we could taste: A decent medium colour, if not diamond bright. Aromatic depth with relatively high-toned fruit and a hint of orange. The texture is slightly lush, plenty of concentration for the label and acidity that is balancing, if not bracing though needs to smooth out a little in the finish – a hint of CO2 compounds the sensation as does the fact it’s only been in bottle for 3 weeks as gravity has to work for a long time on the fine lees. If it smooths a little, this will be a very pretty bottle.
Fermented with 40% whole clusters and bottled in June 2009. A bright, medium cherry-red. Medium intensity friut-forward aromatics and understated Vosne spice. This has more dimension and fuller texture versus the Bourgogne. Very good balance, a slight rasp to the tannin though again just a little subverting CO2. Long finishing. Very good.
Medium colour. The fruit is red at the core and mingles with earth and faint iron and spice. Lovely width and dimension. Although the tannin is largely ‘latent’ I’m almost chewing this wine – to great effect with dark flavours of licorice in the mid-palate. Good length – super.
A little deeper aromas – black dimension to add to the red with a little musk. More linear and mineral, balanced and perhaps a little more intense. A bright, burst of acidity that encourages the long finish. Very good but drink the Cazetiers today and wait for this.
The colour is virually the same medium, medium-plus cherry-red as the Combe aux Moines. Seemingly the the aromas are wider and more complex though don’t show the depth of the ‘Moines’. The intensity is certainly on the same level as the last wine, as is the acidity but with an extra width to the fruit that gives the impression of more ‘padding’. This lingers well and I would say it is also a wine to wait for.
Reduction that slowly lifts with swirling, all the while building aromatic colour – warm red fruit with herbs above. Full in the mouth with quite classy, fine and ripe tannin before you experience a burst of flavour in the mid-palate. Fasintly lingering flavour – majoring on fruit. This is a very pretty wine indeed.
Versus the Corton, totally different aromas of dark-skinned cherry, hints of cured meat – makes a good impact. Mmmm – really complex, concentrated and balanced with just a faint spike of CO2. Faint oak texture in the finish that is largely wrapped in creamy flavour. Really excellent!