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Bouchard Père et Fils Le Corton

1997 le corton bouchard père et fils

Bought way back in 2000 when Sotheby’s had a sale of old Bouchard Père vintages, for what I thought a bargain at £170 direct for BP&F. In storage since then, here is it’s first outing – time to see if it was really a bargain! 1997 Bouchard Père et Fils, Le Corton Medium colour. The nose starts with a herby top-note and a little meat below, it slowly develops a sweeter core of spiced plums. In the mouth this is full of dimension and some reasonable tannin too – the flavour is slightly savoury and inflected with coffee. Good sweetness and no lack of balance helps produce a decent finish. Unlike many from the vintage, there’s a real smoothness here – impresses. Half a bottle [....]

newsday, saved by the cork…

It’s taking me 3 days to finish my most recent bottle, so I thought I might bring you all the news instead – though to start with, I didn’t find much! There is the Dr Vino non-story about reviewers being taken to lunch and more peripherally Mark Squires getting yet another vote for worst moderator – I laughed at first, but in the end, not even worth linking to. I found two interviews reasonably interesting; Randall Grahm and Bernard Magrez, clearly two completely contrast-worthy characters, and I find yet more photos from Vincent Dancer – he’s been quite busy in the last days. If there’s one story that could slip through un-noticed, but actually begs further comment, it is a recent Decanter news item: Closure [....]

Elégance de Volnay 2009

elégance de volnay

If you are free on the Saturday 27th June and would like to taste a few Volnays, in Volnay, look no further than here.

Domaine Méo-Camuzet Bourgogne Clos St.Philibert

two philiberts…

2 notes for the price of 1! 2000/01 Méo-Camuzet, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Clos St.Philibert Like chalk and cheese these two wines. The 2000 has a quite young, medium yellow colour whereas the 2001 is much more golden. Despite the colours, the 2000 is the more toasty and faintly madirised, the 2001 is aromatically much more like a classic white burgundy. The 2000 needs time in the glass as it starts also with madirised flavours – but they all-but disappear with 1 hour’s aeration, leaving some sweetness, good concentration and balance. The 2001 is very balanced but much more austere in the mid-palate and finish – just needs a little more sweetness for ‘solo’ drinking, however, it fits really well with food. Overall, decent [....]

thinking time…

thinking time…

I might not feel like opening bottles right now, but there’s nothing like a new project to get your mind off things. This week the majority of my UK-stored stocks arrived at my house – 406 kgs apparently – all on one pallet. Clearly a pallet is not something that goes up or down steps, so multiple cases were first piled by the front door before being moved into a differently shaped big pile in the cellar. The joy of discovery (the 1995 Brunello (Rennina) Pieve de la Santa Restituta that I bought after having the same wine in Montalcino in 2001) is mixed with the frustration of not easily finding stuff. I also see how my buying habits have changed in the last 5 [....]

we lost a friend…

we lost a friend…

The house is very quiet today – the first time after more than 20 years with no dog. Belle had a short but very terminal illness – age only 6. We’re very sad…

Not quite Burgundy …

… but this one comes about as close as I have tasted from Australia. I am constantly trying out New World Pinot Noirs at home as well as at trade fairs, looking for the delicacy and definition that excites me in Burgundy. Oh – and looking for better values too. I find it hard work, as I am burdened with a palate that is very sensitive to alcohol levels, and loves – perhaps even craves – acidity. I mention those things because for anyone more tolerant of alcohol than I seem to be, this would be an absolute gem. The only downside is that it costs pretty much the same as a decent premier cru. Vive le marketing. Kooyong – Meres Pinot Noir 2005 (Mornington [....]

Ploughing Meursault Genevrières

a really nice bottle, plus recent ‘things’ of interest…

1999 Nicolas Potel, Volnay Vieilles Vignes A medium, medium-plus quite young looking colour. If it wasn’t so sweetly fruity I’d describe the nose as perfumed; it starts as a creamy ‘summer pudding’ with undertones of caramel, 2 hours is enough to focus the aromas to a beam of pure red berry – as perfect as a young villages Volnay can be. On your tongue it has A1 balance and a very understated impact. A characterful flavour in the finish that nods to the barrel but without any of the wood tannin texture. I spent most of my time sniffing, but it tastes rather good too. I rather wish I’d bought this in magnums – but hey-ho… Rebuy – Yes Galaxy’s centre tastes of raspberries and [....]

Clos St.Jacques Pernot-Fourrier

the one that got away

A little tardy, but I thought I would share with you my notes on probably the only dinner that Bill didn’t get to in Glasgow last month. There were some beauties here, not least of which was the gorgeous Pernot-Fourrier. This is the same domaine as is run today by Jean-Marie Fourrier. Before Jean-Claude took over the domaine, the wines were made by his uncle Fernand Pernot … and a darn good job he made of it, if this bottle is anything to go by. Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots 1992 Rich, even slightly madeirised on the nose. Very rich in the mouth – touches of pinepapple, but with a hard mineral core. Surprisingly little acidity showing here, fully resolved, and with a very long [....]

Daniel Rion Nuits St.Georges 1er Vignes Rondes

97 daniel rion nuits st.georges 1er vignes rondes

1997 Daniel Rion, Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Vignes Rondes Medium, medium-plus colour still. The nose is full of sweet-edged undergrowth and below there’s still a dark edge of oak-toast. In the mouth there’s a silkiness and good, if not totally seamless acidity. The dark flavours mirror the nose but have a nice extra creamy dimension, there’s still a bitter-chocolate edge to the tannins too. No sharp edges and only just beginning to enter its drinking window, despite its oaky beginings being still on display, this is becoming a very above average 1997. Rebuy – Yes (and I don’t say yes to many ’97′s…)

hail today…

hail today…

Hail today in Nuits and Gevrey – light in Nuits but the ground was completely white in parts of Gevrey – nothing in-between. Parts of Puligny became white and light hail was seen in Volnay too. It looks like the vignerons were lucky as few buds were open…

99 joseph drouhin, côtes de nuits villages

I was in sunny Ludwigshafen yesterday – and I don’t mean on the Bodensee! – only a 17 hour round-trip! By the time I returned home it was too late to open something, but I see I did not deliver you a note on this bottle yet: 1999 Joseph Drouhin, Côtes de Nuits Villages Medium colour. A deep nose of spice and cedar plus faint, sweet and maturing background fruit. Quite silky, a slightly unripe impression to the fruit, good acidity and largely diminished tannin. A pretty length until some finishing bitterness. Interesting parts and great value, but missing charm today. Rebuy – No

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