It was a cool start in Beaune today, 17 degrees at nine in the morning – in the context of August 2026 that’s as cool as it gets, and with a little bit of a breeze too – order was restored in the afternoon with 31°C 🙂

At 09h00 this morning, the picking team of this year’s home domaine were obviously out in the vines, but their start wasn’t too early today, they start at just 08h30. The casual starting time reflects this year’s modest harvest volumes – usually 50-70% lower yields for the reds, better for whites but still often not more than 50% again – in 2026 it’s all about the lack of juice. More on that later.

It’s the northern part of Beaune that we’re harvesting today, plus a small parcel in Savigny-lès-Beaune too – villages. It won’t be a long day…

Our first grapes are from Beaune 1er cru Cent-Vignes.

We are harvesting and sorting 4 different parcels – two on high, and two that are lower. The lower parcels are on a more alluvial soil that drains too well for this vintage – the higher, usually more draining parcels on the slope have fared little better due to their excellent drainage – no advantage here in 2026, so due to the hydric stress, it’s one of the most affected areas with lots of vine leaves turning yellow. The grapes, however, look not bad at all. In fact, there are plenty of grapes – it’s just that I’ve never seen such consistently small bunches. With our chosen approaches for sorting, there’s not that much triage to be done; in fact, I’ve rarely seen such minimal intervention during triage – but there’s so very little juice.

This year, the case collecting the ‘trie’ under our vibrating table doesn’t collect very much, and what it does collect is bone-dry – something that I’ve never seen before.

We’re making a mixture of whole cluster and fully de-stemmed – the whole clusters in the bottom of the fermentation tank, which were then covered by the de-stemmed grapes. The whole bunches/clusters are self-explanatory, but we used a special sorting machine, the Mistral, to further sort the de-stemmed grapes. I last used a Mistral during the 2013 vintage; it uses compressed air to blow away the sub-optimal (different density) grapes. In the circumstances of 2026, it worked very well; the ‘Mistral triage’ was around 90% dried, hard grapes. And the other 10% of good grapes that we lost? The boss observed mordantly, “At this stage, if you’re talking about the difference between 15 and 13 hectolitres per hectare, who cares, provided it’s been well triaged!”

Lunch had some lovely Champagne, Chablis and red Chassagne.

During our afternoon session, we finished the Cent-Vignes, then had a small Savigny-interlude – it’s not a big parcel. These were the largest clusters of the day, with more juice than the Beaunes, but versus a typical vintage, the clusters were still below average size. Not much to triage again, and kept as whole bunches.

Our last parcel was from young (5-years-old) vine Beaune (villages) Blanchefleurs. Just the second vintage here and the domaine’s own massale selection. Such tiny, but beautifully presented clusters of pinot – fit for La Tâche rather than Beaune! This small parcel was placed into a ceramic Klever, with some foulage (pressing of the grapes) and then sealed for a carbonic maceration. It will be fun to see how that turns out.

By 5pm, there’s only the clean-up that’s left for today. There was one novelty though, around 19h00 came thunder and lightning – oh, and by 19h30 there was plenty of rain too !!

Day 1 learnings:
Very small grapes rather than a lack of grapes are defining the vintage volume here.
Impressively dry on the triage tables – very little lost juice – probably just because there is so little juice.
Almost no fauna was found in the triage – the world of insects had to find different places for refuge and water this year.
Even the dried/drying grapes showed zero ‘off-flavours’ – that’s a first for me, since I started to triage in 2004. It’s a shame that I can’t compare to 2003…
The pinot-fruit is ripe-flavoured but pure; I see no prune or overdone flavours at this early stage

To be continued…

Today’s pics:

Baby bunches

One side good – the other (sunny) side dry…

Carbon dioxide …

Pinot through the CO2 mist…

De-stemmed on top…

Lunch !!

Tool of the day…

Looks like sorting by Hoka…

Trie – as dry as can be…

Arty giraffe !!

“Why prefacing – it’s almost done isn’t it?”

Not at all, the harvest is not yet halfway through – and I only start my harvest on Monday – in the Côte de Beaune. Those reports will come daily, but unfortunately not in the old, inimitable style of sadly missed Marko de Morey…

1976 Tollot-Beaut, Aloxe-Corton
But to kick things off, why not a nice bottle of 1976? A fifty-year-old vintage but one with (dryness) parallels to 2026… Of course, this cork breaks, but the pieces come out easily.
Plenty of colour. This nose has some sweetness of fruit but also a hint of balsamic, almost Madeira – every cork will be different – this one came out too easily; the last cork from one of these 1976s (I started with 12 about 20 years ago) was more like concrete! Flavours of Madeira are not uncommon in older wines, and this still tasted sweetly delicious with a nice mouth-watering energy. Ripe fruit, a hint of caramel too. I enjoyed two ample-sized glasses. The wine wasn’t as good on day two – but on day 1, it was a lovely wine for its age…
Rebuy – No Chance!

The earliest vintage for 500 years, cry the headlines
Well yes, but one could just as easily say the earliest recorded harvest, rather than trying to quantify the unquantifiable…

So, as the headlines dissect the regions in the form of ‘the earliest crémant harvest‘ (etcetera), like everything else Burgundian, if we make the definitive statement that it’s the earliest ever, for everything, we are guaranteed to be 95% correct 🙂

Storms hit the Côte d’Or on the 15th and 18th July – Marsannay (& Dijon) being badly hit by the hail – potentially losing 60% of their crop – but the volume is a moving target – losing 60% of what? It already looked like half a harvest before the hail…

The relative drought and very high temperatures in August actually delayed the harvest. Many growers were anticipating picking pinots mid-month, but the maturation slowed due to some blockage – so it’s still a record early harvest despite many domaines postponing their harvest by a week!

It seems that, this year, Benoit Ente has taken the trophy for fastest out of the starting blocks, even ahead of most of the crémant harvests; having harvested at almost 13% potential alcohol his Puligny-Montrachet 1er (Folatières) En la Richarde on Saturday 8th August – and clearly the last of his vines have been harvested for a few days now. Returning for a second to crémant harvests, I understand that a few of the most quality-minded producers have (here and there) rejected lots of grapes this year for having too much potential alcohol – the limit should be 11.5°…

Mid last week (12-13 August) amongst the (mainly chardonnay) pickers there were even some brave souls picking reds – mainly from parcels of younger vines in the Côte de Beaune, but including by important domaines from the Côte de Nuits.

Monday the 17th August brought a welcome 20mm of rain to Gevrey-Chambertin, but only 1mm to Beaune.

The flow of pickers into the reds remains quite modest, so far, though I watched a small team from Comte Georges de Vogüé picking in the higher (Grands) Musigny section on Tuesday this week – the 18th August – even if these are young vines, that’s surely yet another record.

The same day (Tuesday morning), close to the cross of Charlemagne, teams (vans!) from DRC, des Croix and (PY) Colin-Morey jostled for position as all were picking at the same time – in this area, Louis Latour had already picked. Yields here were not to bad considering the vintage – like the reds, there are enough grapes but with not much juice in those grapes. So maybe half a harvest – my contact indicated about 26 hl/ha in the Charlemagne – and more like losses of ‘only’ 30-40% in the pinots. It’s harder to generalise with the pinots – some plots look great, in other areas the veraison remains incomplete – some bunches still have both green grapes and shrivelled grapes on the same stem.

Rain was forecast for Monday 24th August, and many domaines preferred to wait for that and start on Tuesday – but like the rest of this summer, rain was often forecast but never arrived. It’s starting to look just the same for Monday…

Tasted this week – I was just passing, so why not?! Now bottled for approaching 18 months…

2023 Bourgogne Blanc
From the wrong side of the road in Couchey, across the road from from Marsannay villages vines. Elevage in foudres…
A fresh, quite incisive and zesty. Wide, easy but with a juicy style to the flavour. Holding with intensity and zestiness. Modest but attractive bitters… Super and so moreish…

2023 Marsannay
From 2 parcels, the majority coming from Grasses Tetes
Hmm, this is broad and deliciously attractive – the perfume has depth and a fine blend of fruit and flowers. More direct, a frame of velvety fresh fruit – also juicy, and the last drops in the glass smell of violets. Super!!

2023 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos Prieur
More vertical aromatics; larger-scaled perfume. Wider and with extra intensity. Plenty of tannin but with a little of the wood tannin too which softens the texture, certainly still some of the flavour of the wood. Really impressive – keep it 3-5 years…

2023 Chambertin
Freshness but still some tightness to the higher tones of these aromas – the lower notes are dark and brooding though. Everything framed by the subtly grained but not drying tannin. Growing more and more intense with complex bitters. The barrel is only modestly visible today as everything else is so forward. That’s going to be a very impressive Chambertin – it’s already tasty, but I wouldn’t hesitate to wait for 20 years – and that’s only for the start of many years of wonderful, mature drinking.

2019 Trapet Alsace, Schoenenburg Grand Cru
4g residual sugar here.
Deep, rich, almost musky – a slightly sunny, honied style of aroma. Generous, complex, delicious but a little richer than my favoured style from here. The flavour fades, but holds impressively…

A strong selection over the last 10 days…

2014 Verret, l’Ame du Domaine, Irancy
A good strong cork – it’s over 10-years-old but it doesn’t break.
Older colour but a nose of freshness and clean, leafy depth. Really wide over the palate – how delicious is this?! Slowly fading, complex, absolutely ‘ready and mature’ pinot. As great an older Irancy as I have ever drunk – I must find a reason to open that magnum of 2012 from Cantin! Bravo !!
Rebuy – Yes

2023 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Sous Fretille
This nose has a lovely, direct citrus energy. Detailed flavour. Energetic again in the mouth with almost a rasp of citrus and a quite pronounced minerality in the middle and finishing flavours – properly complex and delicious too. Excellent wine !!
Rebuy – Yes

2023 Weingut Schlössli, Mariage Noir
A local wine from the Swiss Bielersee region. A ‘mariage’ of gamaret, pinot noir and diolinoir grapes.
I’ve had a few different vintages of this and each has been delicious – from memory, this was just under 30 swiss francs…
Rebuy – Yes

2019 Thibert, St.Véran Champ Rond
Wax-sealed and with a high-quality, sweet smelling cork – all is good.
Young colour. Almost pear, but not too ripe white-fleshed fruit, initially lightly toasty but this is more towards reduction than oak – it’s also quickly gone with air. Hmm, this has a lovely combination of minerality and fluidity coupled to a stony depth of fruit – here with the smallest sensation of oak – of the now you see it, now you don’t variety. The problem with such a fluid style is that the wine gets drunk too quickly !! Oh well, that’s a great wine from the Mâconnais…
Rebuy – Yes

Back from the summer pause and now it’s time to concentrate on content – oh, and there’s a harvest coming too !!

There are already a few outlier domaines who are in the vines, picking grapes – more on that later. The crémant harvest kicked off in a more concerted fashion, with a new record early harvest, they are almost a week underway. Likewise, parts of Beaujolais – even in the crus – are following suit for still reds too.

Although we had a wet first quarter – lot’s of standing water in flat areas of vineyards that were reminiscent of 2024 – this year has panned out very differently to 2024. So much so, that before further posts on the harvest itself, I wanted to compare this 2026 vintage with other recent hot vintages:

The 2026 vintage based on official vineyard assessments of ‘heat-sum monitoring*’ versus other benchmark warm years

*base 10°C tracking, base indicies from the Chambre d’Agriculture (Bourgogne Franche-Comté):

The Key Thermal Comparisons

• 2026 vs. 2009 & 2015:
  2009 and 2015 are known for warm, sunny, and stable ripening periods. In contrast, 2026 has been defined by unprecedented, indeed volatile, thermal anomalies, such as a historic May heatwave featuring a weekly average temperature 10°C above the monthly normal for May, and additional June/July canicule events featuring daytime peaks of 38°C to 40°C paired with tropical nights exceeding 24°C.
• 2026 vs. 2018:
  While 2018 was characterised by a generous, warm summer and swift ripening, 2026 demonstrated significantly more extreme early-season spikes. 2026 achieved growth milestones (such as bunch closure and initial véraison) roughly 10 to 15 days ahead of the trajectories seen in the late-2010s vintages.
• 2026 versus the recent precocious benchmarks of 2020, 2022 & 2025:
  The 2020 and 2022 vintages are well-known for their early vegetative starts and high heat sums. 2026 tracked closely to these two years during bud-burst and early spring, but moved ahead of even those vintages by the summer. By mid-June, 2026 was outpacing 2020 and 2025 by at least 8 days, and by late June, it confirmed an advance of 5 days compared to 2020.
• And the one that you’ve been waiting for – 2026 versus the historic heat standard of 2003:
  The 2003 vintage has long stood as the gold standard for intense summer heat in Burgundy. However, by mid-July, the 2026 vintage surpassed 2003’s heat accumulation. Specifically, as of Jul 12, 2026 recorded 940°C in accumulated temperatures since Mar 01, compared to 91°C* for 2003 at the exact same date.

A different comparison:

But what is the phenological impact of all this heat?

This concentrated thermal mass created a “flash” cycle. While previous hot vintages like 2015 or 2018 allowed steady, sun-drenched development, 2026 forced a lightning-fast flowering period in under a week, pushing the earliest parcels toward potential harvest dates as early as Aug 20 to Aug 25.

A newly Michelin 2-star (grapes!) producer has already told me that they currently see the 2026 vintage more like an (even more) extreme version of 2020, than a 2003-style vintage – of course, that’s just one data point, and before picking too…

However, the heat in 2026 has been so intense that it hit a ceiling: unlike 2018 or 2020, where in those vintages heat consistently advanced maturity, the extreme thermal and hydric stress of 2026 has triggered physiological blockages (‘blocages de maturation‘), causing a sharp divide between maturing plots and those entirely stalled by the heat.

And what about differences between the Côte de Beaune and the Côte de Nuits?

The peak summer weeks of 2026 delivered both a thermal and hydric parting of the waves between the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune. While both sectors experienced historic heat sums, the Côte de Beaune experienced more early-season hydric stress and heat spikes. Conversely, the Côte de Nuits experienced more localised weather anomalies, including a severe mid-July hailstorm around Marsannay and into Dijon.

Effectively, the climate of June and July 2026 created two distinct ripening environments across the Côte d’Or:

Côte de Beaune: Early Stress and High Acid Degradation
The Côte de Beaune entered the peak summer weeks under significant hydric-stress. While it received an exceptional maximum of 52 mm of rain in early May (centered around Meursault), subsequent weeks dried out rapidly.

During the mid-July heatwaves, the Côte de Beaune recorded extreme daytime highs frequently touching 38°C to 40°C. This sustained thermal ‘attack’ led to a rapid degradation of malic acid in the grapes. However, total acidity remained structurally stable because the lack of rain prevented potassium uptake, preserving high tartaric acid levels.

Côte de Nuits: Severe Localized Storms and Hail Damage
The Côte de Nuits experienced a volatile meteorological pattern during the peak summer weeks. The northern sector entered July as the driest zone in the region (recording only 23 mm to 24 mm in late spring/early summer). A drought was that broken broken between July 15 and July 18 by intense, localised storms, e.g. A major storm tracked through Premeaux, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Vosne-Romanée, and Vougeot on July 15th, quickly dropping 25 to 30mm of water. In the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, Meuilley even recorded 53 mm of rain.

Across both regions, the extra heat has degraded nearly all the malic acid. Of course, the producers are monitoring individual parcels closely…

Some with stars (sorry grapes!), another that should have stars (grapes!)

2010 Jean-Marc Bouley, Pommard 1er Rugiens
A colour of indiscriminate middle-age. A nose with some cushion of faint vanilla and a little stronger depth – but starting with modesty. Open, clean and with good flavour energy – the finish holds with very classy style – some violets in this (Pommard-style) brash complexity. Modest starting and fine finishing is the first impression. A wine of some stability, as my/this impression hardly changed over a number of hours. I much preferred this wine to Thomas’s Caillerets from the same vintage – admittedly tasted a few years ago, but for me oak is a crime for a Caillerets, probably less so with a Rugiens…
Rebuy – Yes

2024 Bessin-Tremblay, Chablis 1er Montmains
Modest Yellow in colour. Wide, almost a little spice and certainly plenty of salinity to this nose. The flavour mounting with a rush of citrus energy before finishing with a lasting, saline-accented depth of citrus. It started a hint austere but became ever friendlier with air. Just a lovely bottle that was emptied much too quickly – I love it !!.
Rebuy – Yes