Vosne-Romanée

2001 Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée

By on September 30, 2006 #asides

Medium-plus ruby-red. The nose is wide but dominated by toasty oak – even after one hour this ‘mask’ hardly lifts, just a little mocha aroma develops. The palate has nice, soft texture and gives the impression of width – nicely detailed and quite complex, though doesn’t have the intensity of fruit of the Bichot that preceded it. Lovely acidity, slightly grainy tannin and excellent balance. I’m not the greatest fan of this style of aromatics, but this wine has a beguiling, if lightweight understatement. Stylisticly very different to the Bichot – which I slightly prefer – but equally worthy of cellar space; I’d be happy with a 3:2 Bichot:Méo mix.

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2001 Mugneret-Gibourg Georges Vosne-Romanée

By on September 30, 2006 #asides

Medium-plus ruby-red. The nose is wide with a dense, central core of fruit. The palate has just a little more acidity than most – closer in impression to the 2004’s. From a textural perspective this is the winner of this group, it is wonderfully smooth, particularly the discreet tannin. There’s not the punch of fruit you get in the Bichot, nor the masculine density of the Perrot-Minot – in this respect it is closer to the (still lighter) Méo. Medium-plus length that occasionally shows a little extra creamy depth. This is a wine to wallow in, not to be ‘impressed’ by – that’s a compliment!

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2001 Perrot-Minot Christophe Vosne-Romanée

By on September 30, 2006 #asides

Champs-Perdrix sits at the very top of Vosne but despite being a ‘villages’ wine, touches on the 1er crus of Les Gaudichots, Aux Reignots and Petits-Monts plus the very top of La Tâche. Medium-plus bright and young cherry-red colour. The nose starts with an undertow of dark, sweet and slightly toasty oak – this fades in the glass – soft, black-shaded fruit comes more to the fore. Lithe, concentrated, good acidity and very good mid-palate concentration. Despite plenty of well-grained, slightly astringent, tannin there’s a little oak induced texture that today I’d class as a negative. The finish is faint but lingering. Overall, it’s an impressive bottle, but I’d say it needs 3-4 years.

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2001 Lécheneaut (Philippe et Vincent) Vosne-Romanée

By on September 30, 2006 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose has width and vanilla edged depth – smells very young. The palate is lithe – no fat – some sneaky vanilla edged length too, though perhaps just a little (oak influenced?) bitterness and texture too. The tannins are a little forward and astringent, matched to good acidity. There is a good burst of concentration in the mid-palate – the fruit mirrors the nose with its black profile. It would be harsh to judge this wine on so juvenille a performance, but a little more padding and better texture would have been preferred for current drinking. Almost good.

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2004 Bichot Albert Vosne-Romanée

By on September 30, 2006 #asides

Drunk as a counterpoint to the Leroy 2004 Vosne-Romanée – but 24 hours later. Medium-plus cherry-red. The nose is dense with tightly bound red fruit, only faintly spicy, just a trace of cedar, quite wide; totally different and more fruit driven than the complex, forward, smoky stems of the Leroy. The palate has lots of forward acidity, the fruit extract is only-just enough to cover this, but
there is still an element of tartness in the finish. The Leroy had better balance, but this seems to have more fruit, plus a little grainy tannin. Open for several hours this crosses the border from almost good to good and seems to have improved in balance, perhaps not a wine to fill your cellar with, but worthy of a few bottles for future reference.

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2004 Giroud Camille Vosne-Romanée

By on September 30, 2006 #asides

Medium cherry-red. The nose is interesting with a green herby/spicy element to start. The palate is very interesting and really quite intense. The tannin is there and a little dry for about one second before smoothing-out into a very satisfying red-fruit dominated finish. That you could return to this after either the d’Ardhuy 1er or the DRC 1er that followed it is a compliment.

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2000 Rion Daniel Vosne-Romanée

By on June 30, 2006 #asides

Medium colour, still trying to hold onto that last trace of cherry red. The nose shows a little rosemary, red-berry fruit and the last traces of of spicy oak. From cellar-temp this has some furry tannin and an overall nice texture. Elegant fruit of almost good concentration (way over bourgogne level) and super length – though the length has a little oaky bitterness about it. As the wine warms the nose becomes clearer and wider (very nice) the palate also becomes wider, less bitter in the finish but becomes less obviously fresh – just about the only area it shows up the vintage. Much better than I expected!

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2004 Bichot Albert Vosne-Romanée

By on February 28, 2006 #asides

This vintage also contains young-vines from Les Malconsorts. The nose is not so deep, but has super width – very stylish. Sweet palate with lots of interest. The acidity is good, though there’s a slight grain to the tannin. Frankly this is a really excellent villages and a good showcase for the 2004 vintage.

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2002 Guyon Vosne-Romanée

By on October 31, 2005 #asides

Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose bears a striking family resemblance to the same domaine’s Echézeaux, dark cherry, lots of barrel-spice but no obvious toasty oak notes. Very good acidity that’s balanced with fresh but concentrated cherry fruit. Good length, just a little grain to the tannin too. Well-made and tasty.

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