A deeper nose with hints of reduction – certainly more open-knit than the villages. The tannins have a little more ‘grab’ – but not in a negative sense. Just a little more complexity here.
Medium, medium-plus ruby-red core. The nose is dense, and just now will win no prizes for elegance – heavy plum notes dominate a nice dark confiture. Intense and nicely fresh, more mature flavours and a lingering liquid length. Tannin is only found if you roll the wine around in your mouth – it has some grain, but it’s rather anonymous. I finished every drop, but it’s far from in a lovable place today.
Medium ruby-red. A trace of mustiness on opening, but wide, open and fresh red fruitiness thereafter. Medium-plus intensity, mostly in the mid-palate onwards, and again very nice freshness. Frankly rather simple after the previous three wines but, in isolation, tasty with a youthful vivacity. The length is average in this company, but a nice wine to have at under 30 Euros. Rather like the wine from Guyon, in any vintage other than 99, very fine, but in 99 only above average!
Impressively deep colour – quite ruby, no amber at the edge yet. The nose is equally deep, red fruit with a black edge, also hiding in the background is a little toasty oak, but it’s all-but gone. The palate has sweet, fat, ripe fruit, it’s dense, and certainly quite intense. The black aspect on the nose is a little stronger on the palate – good complexity and tannins that hint more to 98 than 97. If there’s a bug-bear it might be the acidity, it seems a little too much to the fore. It’s reasonably fresh, and I’ll leave the last couple for another 3 or 4 years before revisiting.
From the bottom of the Fremiets vineyard. racked in September. It’s a vineyard that concentrates the heat, so tends to be picked 2-3 days earlier than close-by vineyards. It’s a mix of 30 and 55 year-old vines and unlike many in Volnay there was no frost here in 2003, still, only 25hl/ha were produced. The cold nose is fresh and shows red berries and a warm edge. Nicely intense fruit in a linear fashion, just an extra brush of tannin on the finish. Very well balanced.