Roasted red fruits on the nose. The palate is much fresher and tannic; mouth-gripping and dry. The nicest part is the lovely red-fruited length. For sure this is a very young wine but overall hard to like – perhaps it will have it’s day, but I will already have drunk the Lafon by then!
From 0.85 hectares of owned vines. A much more mineral nose than the Caillerets though underpinned with some supple, high-quality black-skinned cherry notes. Ripe, sweet fruit on the palate but balanced by excellent acidity. There’s more tannin here than the Caillerets – velvet rather than silk. Long lasting in the finish – yet another very fine wine.
A deeper nose of darker fruit yet still topped with fresh high-tones – perhaps just a hint of reduction in the background. Here we find the structure of the Santenots and in the mid-palate almost (but not quite) the concentration of the Champans. However, there is a real extra dimension on the finish – the wine opens out beautifully.
Medium-plus ruby-red with a cherry-red rim. The nose is wide, some sweet red-cherry and floral notes, slightly mineral too, but not so deep as some. Having had this wine a few times before, I really expected that it might better the Clos des Ducs and the Lafon wine – it’s very impressive, but doesn’t manage to raise the performance bar. Where the previous two wines combine amazing intensity with panoramic width, this one has the concentration but has a much tighter presentation – certainly a rounder shape and nicer texture for sure. The finish is a very good and shows hints of oak spice. Hard to compare as the personality is so different, but on this showing a little behind the top two.
Deep ruby with virtually no fading. High tones and low, even a green fruit note against a creamy background. Very fresh palate with a wonderfully creamy depth to the fruit – not the ultimate that 99 can offer, but in any other vintage quite profound. The tannin is held to the background by the extract and the very fine, creamy length, still with a trace of oak. Just a little disappointing on the nose, but still top of the class in any year but 99.
Medium-plus colour with a deep core of cherry red. A lovely, though slightly understated nose eventually expands to give a creamy, almost bready and earthy base to the red fruit. Concentrated and wonderfully smooth, the palate has real executive tannins, succulently intense, creamy fruit of many layers and very good acidity. By a margin, and to my palate, the d’Angerville Clos des Ducs is the best Volnay I’ve tried 1999, but maybe this wine plays in the same league. From memory I’d still rate the d’Angerville higher, but it would be interesting to try them side by side – one day I will. Lovely wine for now or over the next 10+ years.