Medium-plus colour. The nose starts as a sumptuous swirl of deep cherry and well-integrated oak, an hour from opening and it’s tighter with edges of tobacco and cocoa. Like the nose, this starts hyper-concentrated yet plush, but like the nose it’s a transitory period before it tightens to show its inner self; intensity, excellent acidity and furry tannin before a good finish. Sumptuous and hedonistic for 25 minutes, underneath there’s the power and structure for 25 years of development. Given the tightening I would suggest drinking only over the next 6 months before sleeping for at least 10-plus – but buy all you can find, and that’s despite a 30% price increase over the last 4 vintages.

The first from the case. Medium-plus cherry red – still very young looking. The nose is broad and quite dense, a little meaty, just a little moist undergrowth too – not particularly fruit-driven – though an hour in the glass gives cleaner, higher toned dark mineral notes and finally a little tobacco mixed with red berries. Fresh with intense dark fruit, very linear and quite mineral. The texture is silky and despite the linear presentation gives the impression of some nice oak upholstery – a little grainy tannin adheres to the palate. Very young with a fine future ahead.

Medium cherry-red. A high-toned nose that starts with a little oaky influence before settling into a wide, red raspberry/cherry blend. Athletic, lithe bodied – no fat – lovely acidity and a fruit concentration that seems to grow in the mouth. Less obviously tannic than the 2000, this is a lovely, classicly styled and obviously young wine, but a definite re-buy.

Medium ruby-red. The nose starts a little meaty taking time to become more and more legant – the last sips have beautiful red fruit – quite haunting. The palate is almost good with ripe fruit of reasonable density, but less than perfect balance – particularly in the acidity department. Coarse and slightly anonymous to start, though lots of air reveals lots of wine. Finishes well, I won’t rush my last 4 bottles…

Thirty percent new oak for the elevage of this wine. A bright, medium cherry-red colour. The nose seems a little tighter than the Aux Guettes, but still manages to show an extra depth and width. A little extra fat on this round and concentrated palate the fruit guards well the tannic structure- a real extra level of complexity on the finish. Lovely wine.

The colour is a little darker. The nose commences with primary cherry-fruit and only very slowly gives up additional complexity. [Hugues often fins the Dominode to be a ‘simple’ wine in it’s youth] Seems fresher than the Gravains, primary and quite tight in the mouth, most of the complexity is found on the finish. This is quite elegant, and it’s interesting to contrast vs the extra bulk of the 2002.