Medium-plus colour, still a hint of cherry-red colour. The nose is rather ‘anti-2000′ with a beacon of pure, fresh, faintly blue-skinned fruit at the core and a top note that is slightly more diffuse and herby (that’s a little more 2000!). The palate is not as plush as it was in its youth, but the late attack of the tannins I noticed in previous bottles is now gone – they are are certainly still there if you look for them, but are no problem now. Decently balanced, it’s as ripe as most 2000s but with a fresher aspect to the aromas. Decently concentrated and showing a wiry muscle, I regret only buying 6, I regret even more that only 3 remain…

Warm, inviting, now starting to develop some chocolate flavours and aromas, no awkward edges. This wine has really entered its early plateau of maturity – it will clearly hold for another 10+ years. Super.

Medium colour. Plenty of depth and interest on the nose – black-cherry shaded. The balance is rather good – good acidity and fresh, darker fruit flavours. The tannins have a little bitter chocolate edge, but there’s real depth here – very successful for the vintage, little of the 2000 confiture on the nose and palate. Clearly a little rustic in the finish, but it’s got good length.

Still deeply coloured. A nose of coal and dark blackberry jam. Plenty of wine here; intense, lingering acidity and decent length. The tannin is present but it’s well-kept and the fruit at its core remains fresh, dark and primary, at the edge I sense some secondary flavours making an entrance. Very drinkable but still at least 5 years from the leading edge of maturity.

Medium-plus colour. The nose starts as a sumptuous swirl of deep cherry and well-integrated oak, an hour from opening and it’s tighter with edges of tobacco and cocoa. Like the nose, this starts hyper-concentrated yet plush, but like the nose it’s a transitory period before it tightens to show its inner self; intensity, excellent acidity and furry tannin before a good finish. Sumptuous and hedonistic for 25 minutes, underneath there’s the power and structure for 25 years of development. Given the tightening I would suggest drinking only over the next 6 months before sleeping for at least 10-plus – but buy all you can find, and that’s despite a 30% price increase over the last 4 vintages.