Cool, reserved, ripe fruits on the nose. In the mouth there’s lots of energy, acidity and a good width. This is a very much better wine than the Bourgogne.
The nose is reasonably toasty, some width and a little spent match (gunflint) – but relatively primary for all that. Given time the glass fills with aromas and added complexity. The palate has understated entry, is wonderfully intense in the mid-palate – but I’m no fan of a flavour profile that (for me) from time to time hints at taint – I must have been wrong because it faded rather than got worse. On its own I’m still unconvinced, but this wine transformed with food (scallops) it became as polished as the 89 villages, alone it’s merely very good.
The first note on the nose is oak toast, but it’s a little more background than the 1989. There’s faint gunflint and at first – fruit – it’s understated, but it’s here. Much longer, interesting and complex than the 1989. There’s an exciting burst on the mid-palate and (disappointingly) still some oak texture to resolve on the finish. I have to say though, that this is very seductive wine.