Medium-plus red, still with a cherry-red rim. The nose has a rasping mineral, indeed earthy note, behind there’s a lovely deep red fruit aspect – very good so-far. There’s some of that earthy aspect on the palate too (geosmin?) but the fruit is splendid behind, as is the overall balance. I’d like a little more length but this has very good base material – I’m concerned about that earthy aspect, but not enough to stop me buying a couple more for reference.
Clos de Vougeot
1996 Grivot Jean Clos de Vougeot
1999 Grivot Jean Clos de Vougeot
Very deep colour – looks like Bordeaux. The nose starts with plenty black and red fruit-skin notes but slowly becomes less giving and settles-down to an interesting spice note redolent of cumin. The palate is very polished and concentrated with mouth-wrapping velvet tannin that’s well matched to sweet black-shaded fruit and acidity that you hardly notice. The finish, like the fruit, is quite primary and of good length. Not an austere CV and easily drinkable but one that could do with at least another 5-7 years before assessing. Very fine.
1996 Castagnier Guy Clos de Vougeot
Medium-plus core of ruby only fading slightly at the rim. The nose starts with a little oak, slowly settling down to a dense red cherry fruit, slightly powdery but little else showing. The palate shows fine tannins that slowly build and very good acidity. Tightly presented, intense fruit, deep but still quite primary. Tasty enough now, but I’m really looking forward to tasting this again in another 3+ years.
2002 Bertagna Clos de Vougeot
Mainly from 70 year-old vines. Almost as dark as the Perrières. The nose is complex and broad, though not particularly deep. Intense fruit – very much so on the mid-palate. Good acidity and well covered tannins. The tannins are pretty silky – sort of halfway between the Petits Vougeots and the Perrières. Another very good wine.
1998 Castagnier Guy Clos de Vougeot
The colour is medium-plus ruby, not quite as developed as the Charmes. The nose shows a trace of oak and also a trace of the cooked note of the previous two Castagniers – but on a much lower register. The fruit is higher toned showing a little redcurrant above the cherry which itself sits above a meaty coffee note. The wine shows in a fresher and more aloof (I wouldn’t go as far as saying austere) manner than the Charmes but with a very impressive length. The acidity is just right and the tannin is thick and velvetty. This is a very good young wine.
1993 Mugneret Dr Georges Clos de Vougeot
Similar colour. The nose is deeper with a slightly more roast fruit character, but fresh cherry top notes though. Similar intensity to their ‘Ruchottes’, but a little more silky and certainly a longer, more intense finish. Not the complexity of their Ruchottes, but smoother and still plenty of interest. Despite the smooth profile of this wine, I reckon it is younger still than the Ruchottes – a super wine to have in the cellar.
1999 Castagnier Guy Clos de Vougeot
Deep cherry red colour. Pure cherry but not the penetrating cordial nose of the ‘Charmes’ Much more subdued in character too despite it’s concentration. Good acidity and more noticeable tannic structure – very smooth mind! So, equally concentrated but a little more austere in presentation. A perfectly good, though not an outstanding example.
1997 Grivot Jean Clos de Vougeot
Medium-plus ruby with a brick rim. Slightly subdued nose which is sweet and primary with high toned red berry fruit, perhaps some blueberry too. Excellent red and black cherry fruit extract on the faintly oaky palate. The dry tannins are still evident – though not rough. This is currently a little austere, but a wine with a very sneaky, creamy length. Despite the lovely fruit, this wine is certainly less dense than the previous two, very fine though – I’d say this is nowhere near ready and would suggest waiting another 3-4 years before trying again.