This year 4 barrels from two suppliers. Medium colour. The nose is very tight so giving little away, though a touch of cedar is apparent, eventually a little high-toned cherry evolves. Good, well textured tannins coupled to good concentration. Another 2004 Clos de Vougeot with classic austerity. Needs plenty of time.
Versus the Malconsorts; darker with a much tighter nose – almost unforgiving in nature – classic, austere, young Clos de Vougeot. Very linear in presentation, concentrated, long and backed up with very executive tannins – very fine. This wine makes quite a statement, and rather like their (Pavillon’s) Corton-Charlemagne, a wine for the future.
Deep ruby-red, fades to mahogany at the rim. The nose is forward and feral; coffee and chocolate covered leaves mix with roast meat. This is a surprisingly subtle wine, the concentration quickly creeping up on you into the mid-palate – and good concentration it is – but disappearing way-too fast in the finish. Furry, velvety tannins that are well-balanced to the rest of the wine. In isolation, not bad, if rather anonymous, but this was drunk with Mortet’s ’98 villages Gevrey, and on this day, everyone preferred the Mortet…
Medium-plus cherry-red. The nose is wide, but starts rather indistinct – black skinned fruit edged with vanilla slowly comes into focus – slowly tightening to show a meaty base. In the mouth this is a lithe and interesting wine that shows super balance and medium-plus length. Very good Clos de Vougeot!
Medium, medium-plus colour, pretty much transitions between cherry and ruby-red. A lovely nose, impressive in a sort of understated way, medium-sweet, precise red raspberry and berry fruits of lovely width, hints of cedar and finally caramel too. In the glass it gradually becomes creamier and rounder with high tones, more and more depth – impressive. In the mouth the wine is fresh, intense and perfectly showcases the texture of the 2001 tannins – super smooth and a different class to most 2002’s. Depth, intensity and tasteful oak on the creamy length. Top-class 2001 and very drinkable – I’m stocking-up.
Medium-plus colour. The nose is deep with ripe fruit that’s even a little jammy. Grainy tannins and reasonably good acidity. The finish is long and a little astringent, but this is showing in a very young way. Not amazing quality but potentially not bad – give it another 3-5 years before trying again.
Medium-plus red, still with a cherry-red rim. The nose has a rasping mineral, indeed earthy note, behind there’s a lovely deep red fruit aspect – very good so-far. There’s some of that earthy aspect on the palate too (geosmin?) but the fruit is splendid behind, as is the overall balance. I’d like a little more length but this has very good base material – I’m concerned about that earthy aspect, but not enough to stop me buying a couple more for reference.
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