Clos de Vougeot

1996 Drouhin Joseph Clos de Vougeot

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Like all these Clos de Vougeots there’s deep core of colour. The nose has width and high, faintly alcoholic tones but also beautiful red fruits and violets though you destroy the picture if you swirl. A mouthful of perfume, fine but forward acidity, little obvious tannin, yet a very long finish that is borne on the vintage acidity. If you give it sufficient time – more than 2 hours – the mid-palate really fills out with dimension such that the acidity is apparently more balanced. I winced, but I really enjoyed it. Day two the palate is fuller and less pain-inducing – even better!

2007 Clos Frantin Clos de Vougeot

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

An elegant, more red-shaded nose that’s rounded with a little wood-spice. Plenty of ripe tannin and a really impressive complex intensity in the mid-palate that today is coated with tannin. Lovely base material.

2007 Terres d'Arômes Clos de Vougeot

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

50% new oak and the only one of these wines not yet bottled – it waits in the tank. Forward aromatics of deep and complex fruit. Structured, intense, it really holds its flavour well – a super finish after a super burst of fresh energy. Bravo! I understand Clos de Vougeot is not an easy sell these days, but perhaps that’s because most are much lower quality than this!

2006 Seguin Manuel Clos de Vougeot

By on June 30, 2008 #asides

Towards the bottom of the clos so plenty of clay in the soil. A more forward nose whose aromas go deeper

still than the Gevrey. Velvet texture and mouthfilling. Lots of tannin, chocolate flavours and a long

diminuendo of a finish. Not quite austere, but close. Very good.

1996 Grivot Jean Clos de Vougeot

By on June 30, 2008 #asides

Still medium-plus colour, now it’s quite ruby-red though still a slightly cherry-red reflection remains. The nose is super-deep, chocolate-coated undergrowth with just a hint of more volatile elements. Lithe – actually quite muscular – withfading velvet tannin and real extra dimension in the mid-palate. This has a super, chocolate framed, finish that’s borne on great acidity. Powerful, concentrated but balanced; even in half-bottle format this is halfway between an intellectual challenge and pure pleasure, so in well-stored, larger, formats I would suggest waiting at least another 5 years.

2006 Clos Frantin Clos de Vougeot

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

An impressive, layered nose with hints of coffee. Full-packed palate with plenty of structure. There’s more here, both dimension and structure. It’s certainly a little austere, but it’s not that tough and it is very, very impressive.

2006 Gambal Alex Clos de Vougeot

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

50% new oak. A wide nose of red berries, though not so deep as the Chambolle Charmes. This is a mouth-filler! Plenty of tannic structure but equally full of complexity and dimension. Nicely fresh, this is a worthy Clos Vougeot.

2005 Lupé-Cholet Clos de Vougeot

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Also not much aromatically – just a little dark oak. Linear, lithe with well-manged tannin and more high-toned fruit. A decent finish – also austere!

2005 Max Louis Clos de Vougeot

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

A very nice nose – wide with complex fruit. Full in the mouth – lots of very fine tannin and super fruit. A lingering diminuendo of a finish. Nice.

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