Like all these Clos de Vougeots there’s deep core of colour. The nose has width and high, faintly alcoholic tones but also beautiful red fruits and violets though you destroy the picture if you swirl. A mouthful of perfume, fine but forward acidity, little obvious tannin, yet a very long finish that is borne on the vintage acidity. If you give it sufficient time – more than 2 hours – the mid-palate really fills out with dimension such that the acidity is apparently more balanced. I winced, but I really enjoyed it. Day two the palate is fuller and less pain-inducing – even better!
Clos de Vougeot
2007 Clos Frantin Clos de Vougeot
2007 Terres d'Arômes Clos de Vougeot
50% new oak and the only one of these wines not yet bottled – it waits in the tank. Forward aromatics of deep and complex fruit. Structured, intense, it really holds its flavour well – a super finish after a super burst of fresh energy. Bravo! I understand Clos de Vougeot is not an easy sell these days, but perhaps that’s because most are much lower quality than this!
2006 Seguin Manuel Clos de Vougeot
1996 Grivot Jean Clos de Vougeot
Still medium-plus colour, now it’s quite ruby-red though still a slightly cherry-red reflection remains. The nose is super-deep, chocolate-coated undergrowth with just a hint of more volatile elements. Lithe – actually quite muscular – withfading velvet tannin and real extra dimension in the mid-palate. This has a super, chocolate framed, finish that’s borne on great acidity. Powerful, concentrated but balanced; even in half-bottle format this is halfway between an intellectual challenge and pure pleasure, so in well-stored, larger, formats I would suggest waiting at least another 5 years.