Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze

1998 Jadot Louis Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze

By on April 30, 2009 #asides

Medium, medium-plus ruby-red – no obvious age. The nose on first pour is reticent; a little bramble fruit but not much else. Without ever becoming effusive, the nose builds a core of dark fruit, slowly releasing finer red-fruit notes and even gives a hint of gingerbread. In the mouth it has excellent freshness, tempered by concentration and width without apparent weight. Just a faint fatness covers tannin that still offers a slight astringency. The length is impressive though hardly ‘impactful’. I left the wine for another hour. On return the wine is more open, mineral and showing much more depth of dark fruit on the nose. In the mouth there seems to be more concentration and intensity – I actually left the bottle in the refrigerator as the room was very warm – I think it made all the difference. It’s more together, more intense and the dark flavours infuse the tongue. I was wavering at first, but keep this wine below 18°C and you well get the return for your outlay. Impressive, yet it will be better in 5-10!

2007 Bichot Albert Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

Aromas that are wide and complex yet never heavy – almost a salty impression. Super fullness, gorgeous fruit, more tannin. serious, indeed profound – a little mineral too. It’s hard to source great Chambertin and Bèze outside of vintages like 2005 – but here is one.

1964 Protheau François Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze

By on March 31, 2009 #asides

The ’sample’ was medium-pale and slightly brown looking, but when it caught the sun the colour was pure ruby-red at the core. The nose is superbly clean for an old’un; a little turned soil and beef stock against sweet, decaying leaves – much nicer than it sounds. Bright acidity (like every ‘64 I’ve tasted) is on display, but somehow with ‘cut’ and focus. Linear, tannin-free, very mineral and subtly long – though it certainly won’t win any prizes in this area. Six hours on the nose has a faint but appealing volatile edge, otherwise it’s as steady as a rock. Texturally the wine fills out a little – perhaps it’s a (warmer) temperature effect – moderating the acidity just a little, it also seems just a little more intense and long, though certainly there’s now a metallic edge to the flavour. It didn’t fade a bit over 3 hours (so that’s 9 in total) of drinking.

2006 Clair Bruno Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze

By on November 30, 2008 #asides

Medium, medium-plus colour. Tight again – hard to get at the aromas. In the mouth I think it lacks a little focus, but the dimension and complexity are easy to see. Less obviously forward and ‘brusque’ as the Clos St.Jacques, but the finish goes on and on…

2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is showing rather more dark oak and faint caramel over the darker-hued fruit. Softer and silkier in the mouth – clearly more oak. The acidity is a little more forward than the last wine, but it’s stunningly long finishing – though the flavours are dominated by the same dark barrel notes as from the nose. A lot of buttery oak texture but the wine survives and impresses despite that. Another stunner but I prefer the Faiveley today.

2006 Bouchard Père et Fils Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

The same supplier for the last 17 years – so Philippe Prost suggests it can virtually be considered ‘domaine’. Wide and complex if not so deep as Le Corton. In the mouth it’s intense and complex with super acidity and plenty of tannin. It’s very long, though a good proportion of that length is oak derived. Always an excellent bottling.

2005 Clair Bruno Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Medium, medium-plus colour. A wide, coffee inflected and soft nose – eventually some lovely red fruit on the nose. The acidity is brighter and makes for a nice burst of interest in the mid-palate and into the finish. There is plenty of tannin but the fruit is a good match.

2005 Drouhin Joseph Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Not so deep aromas, but plenty of width and complexity. The palate is wide and concentrated – plush – lots of ripe tannin too. There’s a real extra dimension of creamy fruit in the mid-palate. Long with fruit and caramel. Excellent!

2005 Faiveley Georges Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze

By on March 31, 2008 #asides

Medium-plus colour. Lovely soft, yet precise red fruits set against a mineral aspect and faint dark oak. The palate betrays a transient hint of dissolved carbon dioxide but not to the detriment of its concentrated, mineral and rather linear presentation. Linear only until the mid-palate when, like the pop of a champagne cork it bursts into life and lingers in a really impressive finish. Superb

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