Medium yellow. The nose is fresh though with a ripe slab of yellow fruit at the centre-stage. In the mouth this has a slghtly oily, fat texture – absolutely not a negative with such a buffer of very good acidity. There is understated power and a very good energy, particularly I like the gooseberry flavoured finish. Fine Puligny villages.
2008
2008 Morey Thomas Santenay Grand Clos Rousseau
Deep colour. Forward red and black cherry – shaded towards black with some background herb. In the mouth there’s balance but ebullience too. Plenty of punchy fruit-led flavour – again a dark shade of red – but far from rustic. Juicy, nice acidity. I must confess, a bottle that was finished rather quickly. Fine value wine here.
2008 Tollot-Beaut Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Lavières
After the Bachelet, here is also some oak, but rather than a smothering sweetness, it’s delivered with a spicy element that is more than amply buffered by a growing, crooning floral aromatic – perfect violets. The last drops in the glass offer a beautiful ‘come-hither’ red fruit. In the mouth there is sweetness, but the acidity urges you into the mid-palate where you have the impression that the wines bursts further into life. Long with a mineral end-note. I might buy a magnum or two for rainy day – if I’m not too late!
2008 Bachelet Jean-Claude St.Aubin Derrière la Tour
The nose starts with quite a lot of sweet toasty oak, eventually there’s a higher toned sweetness that’s not particularly oak-based. Given time (totally blind) I could be convinced by the aromas that this a white wine, with a Meursault-style gingerbread note in evidence. In the mouth the first impression is of a rather thin wine but there is quite some intensity welling up. Good acidity with a faintly sweet medium finish. In the end this is a very tasty drop, but also a highly stylised drop of wine that talks of barrels, not of St.Aubin – it could be from anywhere – well not quite anywhere but you get my drift; all of which leaves me disappointed.
2008 Barthod Ghislaine Chambolle-Musigny
2008 Barthod Ghislaine Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes
Similar in colour to the villages, but the nose has more depth and dimension – there is an almost jellied quality to the black and red fruit – very lovely – heavier than the villages but not overweight. In the mouth there is likewise more dimension and impact, but there is no fat or padding to distract – such lovely acidity, and tannin that I had no inclination to search for. Nothing in the slightest ‘facile’ about this ‘Charmes; intensity, some minerality and an overall package that captivates. Bravo!
2008 Boisson Pierre Auxey-Duresses En Reugne
Pale yellow. The nose is high-toned, faintly floral and has a nice energy about it – perhaps a little sherbet but not too much so. In the mouth, acid and intensity are my first thoughts – but it’s a rather invigorating acidity – plenty of energy and fun here. Kept cool, this absolutely the perfect aperitif for now. Wait 12 months and you might be wincing. Lovely today, but don’t delay!
2008 Lignier Lucie et Auguste Fixin Champs de Vosger
Medium yellow. The nose is faintly sweet with an undertow of flowers and maybe a hint of sulfur. In the mouth this has a lovely bubbling acidity – I remember the 07 being borderline tart – bright and pretty but with a nice sweetness and extra width of flavour in the mid-palate. Lingering on a mouth-watering note. Many Fixins seem to me rather too savoury in their youth and whilst interesting, I wouldn’t be filling my cellar with them. This one avoids that ‘trap’ and begs a top-up to the glass. Yum.
2008 Boisset Jean-Claude Côte de Nuits Villages Le Creux de Sobron
The name is clearly a mouthful – fortunately the wine is very good mouthful. Ripe but fresh fruit on the nose – quite forward. In the mouth this has plenty of energy and fine acidity which could turn a little mouth puckering in a couple of years, but today it is just joyous. There is a little mid-palate muscle and good intensity too. A line of mouth-watering flavour lingers in the finish. Yum – and an absolute bargain…