1993

1993 Ponsot Griotte-Chambertin

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

The only wine not decanted – and didn’t it show, Medium-plus ruby with a trace of amber at the rim. For around 15 minutes this wine had absolutely no perceptible smell – eventually a beautiful pure redcurrant and griotte nose came through, all the while increasing in intensity. Perfect acidity and slightly rasping tannins which subsided with time. There is understated red fruit of medium concentration that lingers well but not much more that I can add. Unfortunately this wine was ‘sacrificed’ – doesn’t seem to have the class or the concentration of the wines above or ’93 Drouhin wine, but it is closed tight shut so I’ll reserve judgement for another day. Requires at least 2 hours in a decanter or better still 3-5 more years somewhere cold and dark – still I’ve got two more chances of getting this right!

1993 Gros Michel Vosne-Romanée Clos des Réas

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Darkest and best of the first 10 wines. The colour shows a deep ruby with a more watery rim. Still showing a trace of oak on the nose with distant black shaded fruit – more closed than the others. Simply super depth to the fruit. The tannins are denser but very well presented. Acidity that’s ‘just right’. The star of the line-up so far. Will be excellent.

1993 Drouhin Joseph Griotte-Chambertin

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Medium ruby with some colour development towards the rim. Understated, almost closed nose – just a little red fruit. Lovely weight to the concentration – vying with 1995 here. Just a little more acidity and very fine and smooth tannins. Still far too young. I think this just gets the nod over the 1995 – but it’s a close call!

1993 Esmonin Frédéric Mazis-Chambertin

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Deep ruby colour fading to an amber rim. The nose starts a real joy, coffee and caramel notes intertwine with a little ash and tobacco – all supported by a sweet and piercing morello cherry – this slowly becomes the dominant note. The palate is fat and sweet with resolved tannin and a raisined fruit finish that is as persistent as it is tasty. No rush to finish, but perfect drinking today, a super-enjoyable wine – but should a Mazy be a little more sauvage?

1993 Leroy Pommard Les Vignots

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Medium-plus cherry red – if I hadn’t seen the label from the colour I would have guessed this was a 1999. The nose was very individual, starting deep, perhaps a little oaky and definitely quite gamey and mushroomy. It took close to two hours (by which time there was very little left) for a red fruit compote nose to develop, further development gave redcurrant. The palate has excellent acidity and very smooth tannin to match. For the first 1 hour+ I was a little concerned whether there was enough density of fruit for the long-term. When we started on the beef course (with a little risotto) the fat improved and the wine took on the appearance of more concentration. Only medium plus length and showing in a very young and very atypical way. Very good food wine and very interesting, but I probably wouldn’t be looking to stock my cellar with this wine.

1993 Méo-Camuzet Corton Clos Rognets

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Deep colour – almost saturated – young looking too. The nose has the residuals from creamy, toasty oak, enough to hide the fruit at any rate. Extra silky, fat palate, showing a supremely long and creamy finish. Excellent acidity with medium tannins. This is an oaky and very civilised Corton for fans of Australian shiraz. Does it show typicité? – maybe not. Is it compelling wine? – of course it is!

1993 Comte Armand Pommard Clos des Epeneaux

By on October 31, 2003 #asides

Medium-plus ruby colour – fading a little towards the rim, but almost impossible to guess the age. The high toned nose is still primary, though if I had to try and put a name to the fruit I’d say crushed raspberries. The palate has good fat, very good acidity and lovely concentrated fruit. The tannins are svelte and well managed and the length is very impressive. Actually this is a very refined wine that should only get better – leave for 5 years if you can keep your hands off it!

1993 Mugneret-Gibourg Georges Bourgogne Rouge

By on February 28, 2003 #asides

Medium-plus ruby colour, starting to look mature, but no signs of amber or brown colour just yet. The nose is very understated, hints of sweet earth perhaps, though not much else. The palate has good density, good acidity and still some tannin. The fruit profile is cherry with a little blueberry. Lovely length to this wine from a subtle vanilla note. This wine made an excellent match with a simple plate of bread and cheese – Thom de Savoie and Reblochon. Very nice, and nearly ready !

1993 Leroy (Maison) Bourgogne Rouge

By on February 28, 2003 #asides

Some signs of seepage on the top of the cork. Colour is a mature ruby tending to brick. Nose, initially subdued, but sweet with very faint redcurrant, orange & tea, became more intense with time. Palate surprisingly thick and full for the appellation with stewed plum fruits and medium but persistent acidity. The tannin is still there – just, with a long but slightly astringent finish – the astringency disappeared with food. I’ve had 1er Cru’s which were inferior in every way. Found this at half price for €8.5 a bottle. I’m going back for the other 4. Drat, there was only 3 !!

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