1993

1993 Jadot Louis Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Narbantons

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

A super colour, medium plus blood-ruby just fading to a watery rim. The nose started a little funky with undergrowth and mushrooms. Given an hour this subsided a little to allow an earthy raspberry note to show. In the mouth the wine is not really a charmer, despite good fruit, the acidity is in the ascendant though the tannins are well mannered. With food there’s much more balance and the wine really starts to become enjoyable – good length too. This is a wine that really needs more time – 3-5 years I’d say – hopefully the fruit will last as long(?)

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1993 Belland Adrien Corton Clos de la Vigne au Saint

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

In the glass – disappointment – there’s good depth to the ruby red colour, which fades to amber, but also a slight cloudiness. On the nose, chocolate, meat and a faint oxidative note. On the palate there’s good acidity and velvety tannins – still with a little dryness, but leaving a smooth coating on your teeth – always a good sign. Good depth to the sweet fruit with a reasonable chocolaty length. Okay, not a perfect bottle, and if they’re all the same then you should look elsewhere. I did, however, manage to finish the bottle without problem 🙂

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1993 Boillot Pierre Volnay Santenots

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

For info, all the Volnay-Santenots wines come from the Meursault side of Volnay , -) This wine has a super deep colour, still more cherry red than than ruby – just starting to change. The nose shows sweet high tones and cherry tart of good depth – there’s even a note similar to very ripe tomato! The palate shows almost completely resolved tannis, perfect acidity and a penetrating concentration of fruit. There are no hard edges with this wine – drinks perfectly now, but there’s many a year of enjoyment in store.

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1993 Lafarge Michel Volnay Selectionées

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

We drank this one directly after the ’97 Lafarge 1er Cru Volnay (below). Darker in colour, with a nose that is shaded a little more towards black fruit. The palate seems more concentrated than the ’97 1er, with good acidity and grainier, more obvious tannin. Despite the apparent extra concentration of fruit, there’s a bit of a gap in the mid-palate compared to the 1er Cru, and this is also not quite so long. Neither the elegance nor the mid palate of the 1er Cru, but then that’s the way it’s supposed to be, also shows in a much younger way. A wine that you should wait a little longer for – enjoyed all the same.

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1993 Mugneret-Gibourg Georges Vosne-Romanée

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

I don’t know, maybe it was the 4 days of furniture moving, or then again perhaps it was the two weeks of shiraz, malbec and merlot etc., but boy did this wine sing. Straight from the cellar (14°C), A lovely medium blood-red colour – just fading a little to the rim. The nose has spicy tertiary notes that surround a centre of currant, coffee, tobacco and high toned fruits. In the mouth there’s perfect harmony – lingering acidity and only just fading drying tannins. The fruit has a compelling raspberry/strawberry complexion. Not very fat, but oh so fresh – really lovely – a village wine that transcends its appelation and the notion of numerical scores. I’d say this is only just entering its drinking window – with at least 10 years ahead to keep enjoying.

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1993 Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Combe aux Moines

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Deep ruby colour almost to the rim, though amber tinged. The nose is splendid, faint earth and mocha with primary black fruit floating above, given time the fruit starts take on a more raisined note and become more meaty, smokey notes come through too. Super palate of perfect acidity and furry tannin that shows only if you keep the wine moving around in your mouth. The fruit is also surprisingly primary on the palate too – like baked raspberries and very intense. I really enjoyed this very much, and it is frankly some way from showing it’s best – my only other bottle will have to wait to 2010 – at least!

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1993 Bertagna Vougeot Clos de la Perrière

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Very deep ruby in colour – solid to the rim too. The generous nose has warm red confiture over a base of secondary and slightly dusty aromas. Two hours in a decanter loses much of the secondary aromas leaving a faintly spicy cherry. The palate shows surprising (to me) density and silkiness – this is surely the preserve of a grand cru? Good acidity and fine tannins that are close to being resolved. I’m genuinely surprised by the density of this wine, I expect a Vougeot to be a medium weight red-cherry-fruit-affair. Is it the vintage or the winemaking? There doesn’t seem to be any obvious (over) extraction, and despite the density there is balance – did they miss-label their Clos Vougeot? There’s 10+ years left to enjoy this wine – Chapeau!

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1993 Trapet Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

The colour has a core of medium-plus ruby red, fading to a watery edge. The nose is very Gevrey with lots of turned earth and eventually a young showing mix of primary red and black cherry. The palate has depth, reasonable fat and pretty much perfect acidity. The tannins are there, but you need to search for them. Good length – helped along by the acidity. Nice wine and still only a youth.

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1993 Esmonin Frédéric Griotte-Chambertin

By on February 29, 2004 #asides

Medium-plus ruby red, only fading a little. The nose starts just a little woody but this quickly fades to give a true griottes nose of focused red fruit. The palate has good fat and perfect acidity. The tannins, though smooth, are more present than in either of the other two cuvées. Despite everything being in place this wine is more one-dimensional than the others – needs more time – perfectly enjoyable for that and very good wine.

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